i'm running car stubs drilled out for bus cvs . if i switch to bus stubs is the length and bearing size all the same?

thanks, larry

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harleys and vws----ac all the way

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Can't say for sure but I think all that stuff is different.

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Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.
M
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You can buy type 1 to bus stub axles that use all the same parts.

Huey

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Dodge 2.2L Turbo Power Running Megasquirt-n-Spark MPI.
http://www.woodsbuggy.com/forum/water-cooled-engines/3584?p=24592#p24592

car stubs are different length and diameter than bus stubs

certain year, I think 83 and 84 Porsche 924 944 stubs fit car but have bus cv pattern,, like a "Thing" or type 181 VW. Hard to find and usually expensive,,,easier and cheaper to drill out car stubs to accept bus cv's. Of course there are aftermarket chromole car stubs that accept car, bus, or even 930 cv's.

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If your clutch ain't slippin,, you probably got it adjusted right!!!!!

This is what your looking for.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/ ... id=1057994
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/ ... id=1021836

Are you having problems with these... Most people run drilled car stubs.

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A broken clock is right two times a day.

What I've done is thread an old wo' out bus joint with 3/8 coarse threads all the way thru all 6 original bolt holes. Then take a zip tie and wrap it around the middle and spray it with spray paint. Get rid of the zip tie and follow the newly painted mark with a high speed Dewalt metal disc cutter and cut the old joint in 1/2.Now stand your bug stub axle in a vice and center one of the bus halves on top.Heat it up with a hand held propane torch fairly hot and weld it with a 3/32 7018 stick rod.Only Mosses can separate these two now and you'll like the new threads and bigger bolts.I've done a many like this with Porshe 930's welded onto Ford stub axles and diffs. Another plus is that your axle now has more room , not to keep ramming your stub axle or trans flanges.

and how hard was that outer cage to thread and wouldnt fine threaded be better/stay tight longer

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Just Stand On It!!!!

Chris

Get a good tap from a fastener store. I used 1 from Lowe's and it was good . A cheap one might break and you'll never get the broke tap out.The steel cv is HARD but a good tap will ease rite thru it.But NEVER force it.Even good ones break. Let it cut at it's own pace. (About 12 minutes per hole)Keep the T handle STRAIGHT, it's very important. Twist 90 degees then back 45. 90 then 45 while keeping it well oiled and the metal filings dripping out with spray oil.Fine thread is stronger but less forgiving while threading.Find your perfect length allen head GRADE 8 3/8 bolts then decide which thread to go with.The new size is an overkill any way, so it makes no difference. From now on all of your bus joints need to be widened out from the stock 5/16 holes to a 7/16 hole.Should bore rite thru it on a drill press in 15 secs per hole. For 930's everything is a step up using a 7/16 tap and an old 930 cv.

i didnt think about that, you gotta carry just as many drilled as undrilled for spares unless you drill out and re-tap the drive flange on the tranny to the same size also,,,,,,,,,, if not there would slack around the bolts with a drilled joint at the tranny end

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Just Stand On It!!!!

Chris

True. Carry extra joints for both sizes or make all your flanges the same way.Oh a 3/8 tap calls for a 5/16 hole. The stock hole in the joint is already 5/16(8mm).If you want bigger tighter bolts, this is the cheapest way.

i have thing stubs for sale