I'm running the Pertronic 2 billet dizzy and an NGK plug. Could n't get the heat range I wanted, so I went 1 higher, don't remember the #. This is a 2276cc put to gether for mid range performance. Any recomendations for plug type and gap? I've got to set up my carbs, they are over fueling, (noticable smell) and probably washing the cylinders but no smoke and oil smells like fuel. I've reset the plugs to .035. It was idling on 1 cylinder? Only died when we pulled the #2 plug wire. We ohm tested the plug leads, 3&4 were about 600 ohms while 1&2 were at 1,100 ohms, (longer wire?) Uneven temp.s on the exaughst. Could this just be bad carb set up, adjustment? I've been ignoring them as I'm working on rebuilding a set of Dells for it now. Thank's again, Dave W.

what kind of carbs u got on it?what plug does it take?i run ac delco plugs at .055 thous.,,no points,hei distrubutor

Definately sounds like the carbs. put those dellorto's on there i run spark plug gap at .032 and also run a ngk plug the part number is b7es. they seem to work good i haven't had any trouble.

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when in doubt use the skinny pedal!

What carbs /jetting/venturies/air correctors and fuel pressure do you have? If the oil smells like it has fuel in in the bearings are going to go bad in a hurry. For the most part my strokers run one heat range colder than stock. I'll pull one and look as I just switched to NGKs. Inthe past I ran W7ac Bosch.

35 to 55 on the plug gap depending on the energy of your coil, your compression ratio and the shape of the combustion chamber. If you have points, get rid of them and install electronic pick-up.

Roy

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Buy the best and cry once.

X2 on getting rid of those points. Its 2010 and they have alot better equipment now a days.

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"It is easy to be brave from a safe distance."

I found the root of the problem. but first, it is a pertronics 2 billet distributor with .6 ohm epoxy coil and 8mm wires. Dual Zadron carbs with over sized venturies and jets as recomended by, and from A. J. Simms. The jet # 's were filled off so I measured them with micro drill bits to compare them with originals. I wrote the sizes down, but that was a long time ago now.
Anyway, to what I found out. The gaskets in the rebuild kits cover most of the float bowl and the centers were saged holding the floats down. That and the needle seat assembly were only finger tight. Guess I left them that way until I could find out how to set them. Which as it turns out is by shimming the needle assembly. Which I've done. This has stopped the massive fuel wash that was happening after shut down, (puddling over butterflies).
Now when I try to do carb ajustments there is some response. Also seems more cylinders are firing at idle now.
Drained oil, added Lucas breakin additive, ( zinc/phosphorous - ZDDP) and Lucas 20-50 synthetic.
Next I'll reset the valves, some sound noisy and then go back to addjustments and timing. The NGK plug listed above is what I think I wanted but not available in Canada, (so I was told). So I went hotter to the 8. Some one recomened a cooler plug. My friend recomended smaller gap, but I thought it should have been bigger. That's why I started with 40. Exaust still smells a little fuely, but guess I'm going right direction.
Still waiting on the rebuild kits and manual for the Dells
Just wondering about a recomended point gap. Thank's all, Dave W.

I think with the ignition system you have .032 to .035 gap will get you in the ballpark. Your biggest problem is two things called kadrons. Get the dells on there. That's just me.

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Aircooled power!