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PostPosted: Thu Jul 01, 2010 5:25 am 
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Location: Leslie County, KY
i finally got my hands on a bigger motor its got 94 mm pistons & cylinders and a stock crank what kind of i crank should i put in it i dont think keepin the stock crank would be a good idea its not put together yet so you all let me know ! :mrgreen:

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Last edited by vw_brandon on Sat Jul 03, 2010 12:30 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 01, 2010 6:03 am 
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I ran a stock crank for years but if you want to up grade buy you a counter weighted crank but i would save my money and buy a a little bigger one like a 78 mm.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 01, 2010 7:36 am 
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pipedope wrote:
I ran a stock crank for years but if you want to up grade buy you a counter weighted crank but i would save my money and buy a a little bigger one like a 78 mm.



by changin my crank what will it do?

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 01, 2010 10:21 am 
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make you a small stroker motor. =,s more hp & torqe

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 01, 2010 1:16 pm 
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A bigger crank Increases your displacement.... which is determined by the bore and stroke. (crank is the stroke)... The number like "90mm" or "69mm" is how far the journals are apart. The higher the number, the longer the stroke. Like pipedope said, there's nothing at all wrong with a good built 1915. Stock crank works just fine too, counterweighted even better. And the bigger discplacement equals more horsepower and torque like said above. Make sure you get it built by a reputable builder. You deal with Tim alot, right? I'd have him put it together if I were you.

-Dakotah/koko

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 01, 2010 5:20 pm 
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http://davisracing.com/engine%20calculator.htm Watch the $amba for a good used crank if money is tight. Thanks Dave T

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 01, 2010 10:17 pm 
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kyjr.buggy1 wrote:
A bigger crank Increases your displacement.... which is determined by the bore and stroke. (crank is the stroke)... The number like "90mm" or "69mm" is how far the journals are apart. The higher the number, the longer the stroke. Like pipedope said, there's nothing at all wrong with a good built 1915. Stock crank works just fine too, counterweighted even better. And the bigger discplacement equals more horsepower and torque like said above. Make sure you get it built by a reputable builder. You deal with Tim alot, right? I'd have him put it together if I were you.

-Dakotah/koko



yeah when i get ready to have it put together im takin it to tim

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 02, 2010 8:25 pm 
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Good deal.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 02, 2010 10:10 pm 
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If you running a small cam VZ 14, W 100, VZ 15, W 110 most of the time you will be turning 1000-4000 rpms so a good balance job is all you need. I used a Rimco crank and rods. I had Rimco replace the rod bolts and nuts and balance the crank and rods in my 1835. It has a VZ 15 style cam, is 19 years old and has never been apart. No thrust bearing wear or loss of oil pressure. If your the type who only knows WFO then a CW crank is a good idea. A 1915 with a VZ 14 cam makes for an very strong low rpm engine.


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