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 Post subject: Bent 930 cv boot flanges
PostPosted: Thu May 06, 2010 11:18 pm 
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I’m running deans 3x3’s with 19.25 axles and race prepped 930 cv’s.

I was repacking my 930 cv’s and found the two outer cv boot flanges are bent. It looks like the axle is hitting them or something. Any idea what would cause the bends?

I also found the axles on the out sides has buggered up splines on the outside edge. The stub axles look like homemade ones with out a deep enough pocket for the axles. They are all shiny on the outside edges of the pocket where the axles are rubbing. DVS1 is letting me borrow his cromolly 930 stub axles so I am taking care of this problem. Thanks again Dave.

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PostPosted: Fri May 07, 2010 12:53 am 
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That is common. The sliding axle hammers the inner and outer flanges. The inner one should have silicone to seal the output shaft not the cup. My cv boot holders are not as hammered as yours. Are you running more than 24 degrees of axle angle? I'm running 22 degrees with the limiter straps installed.


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PostPosted: Fri May 07, 2010 8:30 am 
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Your CV angle is too steep at full droop. Tighten up the limit straps before you snap a cage. The hammering is also caused ny allowing too much droop. grab the axel at full droop and slide it back and forth. If you have less than a 1/2" then its going to hammer the crap out of the Trans cup and stub axel. Also not good for the CVs and/or the trans differential.

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PostPosted: Fri May 07, 2010 8:31 am 
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had the same problem with the flanges. mine was due to the limit straps stretching.

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PostPosted: Fri May 07, 2010 9:41 am 
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The drive flange side is untouched and it did have silicone instead of the rubber plugs. I originally set the cv’s to 25 degrees. The last time I adjusted my straps I jacked the buggy up and adjusted until the axle wouldn’t move then tightened the straps 1” higher then max bind.

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PostPosted: Fri May 07, 2010 10:48 am 
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You want to lower the arm until the axel starts to bind then raise it up 1", not when the axel does not turn.

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PostPosted: Fri May 07, 2010 11:55 am 
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Odyknuck wrote:
You want to lower the arm until the axel starts to bind then raise it up 1", not when the axel does not turn.


yea thats what I meant to say I did.


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PostPosted: Fri May 07, 2010 1:05 pm 
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Did you readjust the straps after they streached?

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PostPosted: Fri May 07, 2010 2:15 pm 
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Odyknuck wrote:
Did you readjust the straps after they streached?


I did 3 times since I put them on. But 2 of the times was because I rolled it and had to undo them to fix my bent arms.


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PostPosted: Fri May 07, 2010 2:19 pm 
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Well it would appear that you will need to be on the conservative side in your adjustment so this does not continue to happen.

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PostPosted: Fri May 07, 2010 3:17 pm 
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your axles are too long for deans "3x3's" they are not conventional "3x3's" myself, subysteve, kylemartin, dave (shadetree) all run stock length bus axles with deans arms. you're welcome brad.


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PostPosted: Sat May 08, 2010 9:48 am 
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Odyknuck wrote:
Well it would appear that you will need to be on the conservative side in your adjustment so this does not continue to happen.

maybe he should be on the conservative side of riding...............naw then i wouldn't get any good youtube video :lol:

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PostPosted: Sat May 08, 2010 10:57 am 
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JeffClay wrote:
your axles are too long for deans "3x3's" they are not conventional "3x3's" myself, subysteve, kylemartin, dave (shadetree) all run stock length bus axles with deans arms. you're welcome brad.

that makes sence because i have the same problem, i also use deans "3x3" not the bending of the flange, just the beating of the stub axle. that would have been good info when ordering $200. set of axles

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PostPosted: Sat May 08, 2010 12:55 pm 
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Jeffs right, I'm running stock bus rite out of the bus with clips. The other thing about the axles banging is they need to be clocked. If its not clocked correctly it will be forced back and forth withch it will bang

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PostPosted: Sat May 08, 2010 5:17 pm 
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I don’t know what I have then. I told Dean I wanted 3x3's when I ordered them. That’s the reason I ordered 19-1/4” axles. Also my cvs are clocked, but they always made noise when at full extension. With my limit straps adjusted I had about 3/4” of movement in my axles. I will do some measuring and trim my axles if I have to.


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PostPosted: Sat May 08, 2010 5:20 pm 
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plumberbill wrote:
maybe he should be on the conservative side of riding...............naw then i wouldn't get any good youtube video :lol:



Ha-ha I'm a trail rider how much more conservative can I be...


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PostPosted: Sat May 08, 2010 8:12 pm 
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like that avatar its like your doin that levitation trick



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PostPosted: Sat May 08, 2010 9:43 pm 
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Thanks for that avatar shot Bill


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PostPosted: Wed May 12, 2010 1:29 am 
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I measured with the stub axle level with the drive flanges and got 19.625 on one side and 19.500 on the other. So what axle length should I run?


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PostPosted: Wed May 12, 2010 8:43 am 
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hillaholic wrote:
I measured with the stub axle level with the drive flanges and got 19.625 on one side and 19.500 on the other. So what axle length should I run?

I think 19.250 should be fine. Mine used to ping like that, maybe still do some.

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PostPosted: Wed May 12, 2010 8:59 am 
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hillaholic wrote:
I measured with the stub axle level with the drive flanges and got 19.625 on one side and 19.500 on the other. So what axle length should I run?



19.250 axels will only give you a 1/4" clearence on one side and 3/8" clearence on the other. Considering the amount of lateral flex in the trailing arms that will not be enough end play and it may still hammer the cv and/or the trans flange. You may be better off with 18 3/4" axels

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PostPosted: Wed May 12, 2010 9:20 am 
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Might be better off facing some off the axles. Not sure if a 1/2" shorter axle will be long enough at full extention. Altering the axles is going to be cheaper than a new set.

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PostPosted: Wed May 12, 2010 9:59 am 
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Odyknuck wrote:
hillaholic wrote:
I measured with the stub axle level with the drive flanges and got 19.625 on one side and 19.500 on the other. So what axle length should I run?



19.250 axels will only give you a 1/4" clearence on one side and 3/8" clearence on the other. Considering the amount of lateral flex in the trailing arms that will not be enough end play and it may still hammer the cv and/or the trans flange. You may be better off with 18 3/4" axels


Your are probably right,,,I was going by old info like this found here:
http://www.pacificcustoms.com/ac598995.html

this may be a better way to figure length though:

http://www.swayaway.net/joomla/images/I ... ctions.pdf

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