its them two things on the fan shroud i put a new alternator on it and now its blowin air out wtf is up with this it didnt do this until i changed my alternator

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Brandon

Those are what would push air thru the heat exchangers in a regular beetle. They had to be doin it before or your fan wouldnt have been turning and your motor wouldve been toast long ago. Maybe you just didnt notice it? Did you get a used alternator? Maybe it has the wider fan on it and now you are pushing more air?
Anyways, lug 'em up so you get more air movin over your cylinders instead of losing it out those tubes. Sometimes you can find find rubber expandable freeze out plugs that will plug them. Someone probably makes an aftermarkert plug for them, seems like I've seen something like that. Better yet, cut them off flush at the shroud and weld a piece of sheetmetal over the hole.

nope it never done it until i bought the alternator at advance and put that one on it, i got my old fan on that alternator so it couldent be that i dont think, but ill take it to school cause i cut them off tonight and was gonna weld them up but my stick welder set down as low as it would go would burn thru it ill weld it up with a mig at weldin class

but anyway does that mean my oil cooler thing still works? but if it does get hot my oil light will come on tim wired up for me

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Brandon

does your fan shroud still have the little moveable air flaps at the bottom of it? (There is a little piece of flat bar that goes across the bottom rear of the shroud that controls them. If it does they may have gotten closed while you had your shroud off.That would explain having a lot more air blowing out the ducts than you did before. That could be real bad. If you still got 'em, take the shroud off and remove them. They will restrict the air from flowing over your cylinders.

got them ducts welded up today still got my fan shroud off i looked n didnt see no thing like you was talkin about ill put it back together friday and see how it does

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Brandon

This is what you need to read. Jake spent some serious time and money gathering this data. You do what you want with it. My shroud has the 1.5" hole in the freeze plug.

From The Samba
Posted: Fri Jan 27, 2006 8:12 am Post subject:

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The line up is as folows
DTM
Stock non modified (includes 181 in my testing)
36HP aftermarket
911 style shrouds
center mounted systems that utilize the stock radial fan (these are HORRIBLE)
VW Gol

Nothing performed as bad as the Gol shroud!

I saw no differences in cooling with the 181 shroud that would prove it's worth the money.

My DTM only beat the stock shroud by about 10% in average engine temperature, but it did significantly decrease temperature delta between all 4 cylinders. The biggest benefit of the DTM was the cooler oil temperatures due to the TIV cooler and the 17% of added airflow we direct through it over stock.
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Jake Raby
www.aircooledtechnology.com

Posted: Fri Jan 27, 2006 3:45 pm Post subject:

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Yes, the air was to be metered by the heater boxes and the shroud was designed with this amount of bleed and back pressure in mind. I found that a freeze plug with a 1.5" hole in the center provided effectively about the same results as with heaterboxes installed, pressure wise within the shroud....

Remember that even when the heat is off, the air escapes from the heaterboxes through the tiny bleeders on top of them, there is always air escaping from those "snorkels" on the stock shroud, with the original design.

The same rule has applied to the TIV engine with the heater boxes removed- blocking the outlets in the stock shroud certainly has negative results- mine have been open on the Bus for 5 years. Blocking them off quickly elevates temperature differences and really heats up the #1 cylinder...
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Jake Raby
www.aircooledtechnology.com