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PostPosted: Wed Feb 10, 2010 2:15 pm 
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Location: Independence KY
so i finally had to pull the motor out of my truck to rebuild cause g-pa wants his jeep back so havent been workin on the buggy lately... its getting close to finished now i have to start spendin the cash flow on it... i need about 6 more sticks to finish both buggies

i think all is left is tree bars and frame horn braces and my engine cage.. plan to get a side shift 6 rib this weekend and order a header then next step is 2 kirkey's and pedals and go from there...

thanks for everyones opinions.. i've been in the offroad game for a while and thought the jeep crowd was nice but after finding this site im convinced that the buggy guys are more like family than anyone in the offroad world. i havent seen anyone willing to offer as much help and knowledge as everyone on here.. greatly appreciate it and maybe one day we'll be able to ride together!


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 10, 2010 2:18 pm 
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Location: Independence KY
JeffClay wrote:
i wouldn't waste your time or money with a windshield, unless you plan on riding on the road A LOT. i ride on the road quite often, just wear safety glasses.


i took the jeep out the other day when it was sunny and could hardly see through the lexan windshield from all the scratches so it seems goggles or glasses will be how i roll out :D :P


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 28, 2010 6:13 pm 
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Location: Independence KY
i got my kirkeys in last week and the motor is back in my truck! going to get more tubing this week to finish up whats left.

is there any rule of thumb on how far in front of the torsion i should mount my seats? the old poly's were about an inch from the rear of the seat.. i plan to be about 3-4 inches now

also any thoughts on cutters? i like the dual handles but not sure how much room i will have for them.. should i splurge and get cnc's?

which of the sponsors is closest to independence ky? i have ordered some stuff online and all the service sucks i spent $80 on tabs and when i got them they're cheap as hell looking not satisfied at all... and i would rather help a local guy that can offer me more assistance


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 28, 2010 9:31 pm 
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Location: mooers hill IN
hayshaker247 wrote:
i got my kirkeys in last week and the motor is back in my truck! going to get more tubing this week to finish up whats left.

is there any rule of thumb on how far in front of the torsion i should mount my seats? the old poly's were about an inch from the rear of the seat.. i plan to be about 3-4 inches now

also any thoughts on cutters? i like the dual handles but not sure how much room i will have for them.. should i splurge and get cnc's?

which of the sponsors is closest to independence ky? i have ordered some stuff online and all the service sucks i spent $80 on tabs and when i got them they're cheap as hell looking not satisfied at all... and i would rather help a local guy that can offer me more assistance

Some hill climber say balance the car off torsion tube my woods car seat is about a 1' . I like dual handles & yes go CNC . Drews is about 20 miles nouth up 75 or 25 miles 275 west to winten rd by base pro follow air port sines. you can see a map WWW. GO DREWS.COM


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 04, 2010 11:22 pm 
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Location: Independence KY
i've been doing a little pondering...

what do ya'll know about these so called baby chains? pros cons,, pics would be great too..
i have stumbled across the idea afew times but never much useful info...


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 05, 2010 1:20 am 
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hayshaker247 wrote:
i've been doing a little pondering...

what do ya'll know about these so called baby chains? pros cons,, pics would be great too..
i have stumbled across the idea afew times but never much useful info...


never run chains myself but if i were going to i would definately want to copy firebugs baby chains setup but thats just my opinion

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 05, 2010 1:23 am 
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i've been trying to find pics of it but no luck :(


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 05, 2010 1:30 am 
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hayshaker247 wrote:
i've been trying to find pics of it but no luck :(


there a few on here somewhere, just go up to search on the board index page and look through what comes up, should be in there somewhere. if i run across it ill post the link

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 05, 2010 1:33 am 
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i have so far found one of him and one of a bad ass bogger on what i take is his buggy


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 05, 2010 1:35 am 
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here a couple of pics at the bottom seems like i seen some more somewhere but youl kinda get the idea anyways

http://www.woodsbuggy.com/index.php?opt ... ins#p70970

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 05, 2010 11:57 pm 
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http://www.woodsbuggy.com/index.php?opt ... 8&start=25
i like these trailing arms but i dont think they need to be that wide... i race 4wheel drive jeeps on 300ft dirt drags and two of our jeeps have custom chain drive transfer cases 1 on a glide and 1 on a jerrico.

both of them have 3 carrior bearings with 1.5 inch stock for support and keyed stock for the front drive shaft.. i think they have 3 key ways and the bearings hold strong from twisting.. both have been racing for about 7 years with no breakage.. looks like same chains as firebug runs.

anyone ever ran the chains inside the trailing arms like the ones wbsouth has?


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 06, 2010 12:01 am 
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Location: Independence KY
it looks like firebugs axles are fairly short... does this hurt with travel? or not since the hub is no way farther back in the stroke and the axle is close to the pivot....


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 06, 2010 1:14 am 
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hayshaker247 wrote:
it looks like firebugs axles are fairly short... does this hurt with travel? or not since the hub is no way farther back in the stroke and the axle is close to the pivot....


the closer to the pivot = less travel requiremnet up and down as far as the cv joints and axles are concerned

the key is to keep the axel and joints as straight and in line with the tranny as possible and unless you move the tranny back very much you shouldnt have any need for 930's as bus should do just fine and could possibly get by with car joints depending on up and down travel

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 06, 2010 10:33 am 
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yes but if you run car cv's thats just making another weak point.. IMO.. i think i would atleast stick with bus cv's, more than likely still gonna get 930's


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 06, 2010 10:41 am 
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hayshaker247 wrote:
yes but if you run car cv's thats just making another weak point.. IMO.. i think i would atleast stick with bus cv's, more than likely still gonna get 930's

yes go with at least a bus or bigger just better and less chance of failure imo.chad :mrgreen:

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 06, 2010 5:51 pm 
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i know 930s are great, but with not having a built trans, i think running bus is your best bet. I would much rather break a cv cage than my trans. i know that is not always the case, but in theory your cv is creating a weak link, which isn't always a bad thing...


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 06, 2010 9:41 pm 
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JeffClay wrote:
i know 930s are great, but with not having a built trans, i think running bus is your best bet. I would much rather break a cv cage than my trans. i know that is not always the case, but in theory your cv is creating a weak link, which isn't always a bad thing...


that is why i said bus or car instead of 930 cause even the car joints hold up pretty good when running straight but to each his own 8)

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 07, 2010 9:25 am 
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ridenrace6 wrote:
JeffClay wrote:
i know 930s are great, but with not having a built trans, i think running bus is your best bet. I would much rather break a cv cage than my trans. i know that is not always the case, but in theory your cv is creating a weak link, which isn't always a bad thing...


that is why i said bus or car instead of 930 cause even the car joints hold up pretty good when running straight but to each his own 8)


Thats my theory too. I would rather spend a couple bucks on a new cv then a couple hundred on a new trans.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 07, 2010 12:25 pm 
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i am thinking that i'll run 930s.. if i make a chain drive the chain is the weak point.. i have broke 1 in our race car from doing an 80 foot wheel stand.. it has a dana 30 front end so if it didnt go first i think the chain on a buggy will go before probably any CV. jmo


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 07, 2010 6:42 pm 
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hayshaker247 wrote:
i am thinking that i'll run 930s.. if i make a chain drive the chain is the weak point.. i have broke 1 in our race car from doing an 80 foot wheel stand.. it has a dana 30 front end so if it didnt go first i think the chain on a buggy will go before probably any CV. jmo


i know very well about the dana 30 front axles but the high pinion version is just about as strong as a low pinion 44 especially if the 30 has the 44 size joints in it but those size 80 chains that they run on buggys is plenty tough enough to still break a stock tranny at least just ask marty he broke a 6 rib up at wellsville last year if im not mistaken and i dont think has broken a chain but these are just some opinions from some observations i have made

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 07, 2010 10:05 pm 
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yea we run the cj 30 for weight and strength it is four link front on our race car...

i am thinking on doing the chains inside the trailing arms so with some like wbsouth's you could make all the bearings to hold the gears and still cover it all in steel so if it ever does come loose it wont kill you...

the ones in our race cars are 1/4 inch aluminum and it is right under the seat with another 1/4 inch floor pan and i didnt know it broke until someone found the chain on the track..

a chain flying out at high speed could get ugly...


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 07, 2010 10:15 pm 
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you do have a good point

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 07, 2010 10:33 pm 
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yes i would advise anyone with chains to have a good sized chain guard.. when they inspect our cars it has to have atleast an 1/8th inch shroud...


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 07, 2010 10:36 pm 
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ok so i will be running coil overs on this buggy... is it best to set them up in about mid shock travel at ride height? or have more up or down travel instead of being the same both ways?

i know four link trucks you want mostly down travel... didnt know if buggy is the same


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 07, 2010 10:46 pm 
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also if i make these arms im the arms they might be like 3x5's if five is the length.. will this hurt my weight distribution? im thinking not and it should help the front end stay down but dont want too much so the rear wont hook up...


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