i just got a new warrior frame and its set up for ball joint and i wana run lp i was wondering what would be the best way to modify the frame to make it work

For years everyone I know has heated the upper tubes at the bend & pulled them down. I helped do this to 3 frames that are still in the woods.

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if you heat steel enough to stretch it, you are changing the microstructure of the steel, changing all the characteristics of the steel, thus weakening the tubing. Heating of steel should be controlled. I used to do metallurgy work quite often at my last job, it's amazing how much you can change steel for the worse. Although it may hold up, i wouldn't suggest it...

Im with you that heating is not the best idea. The only reason I dont shy away from it in this case is that Ive never seen one fail. I think because there isnt a ton of stress at those bends. My buddy Tim needed to do this & he bent 3 beams without ever a problem on those tubes. We always heated just behind the beam clamp about 3" cherry red. I would never do it in the center of the bend nor at the top. Im assuming the front will be spider braced as well. I dont think I would do this on a sandrail that isnt braced though. This is purely based on my personal experiences though.

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On a serious note....Whats the difference between heating the steel & welding it? Welding takes it to the melting point & stresses the steel. Or are you referring to the bending while hot stretching it at a time that the molecular structure is being changed by the heat?
Im very carefull about heating & welding high stress areas for that reason. Just curious...

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when i did mine i just took the bj front end out cut the top rails off put the lp in leveled it then bolted the top rails on the lp then measure the gap cut a peice of scrap tubing 3 inches longer then your opening then cut the tubes that are 3 inch longer down the middle 1 1/2 on both ends so it will slide into your upper rails you cut off then cut a peice of tubing to flush the final gap on the top rails and weld it up and grind her pretty and paint . plumberbill did a swap for one of his buds and had pictures of it but i could not find it , that might help you also , maybe someone will put a link if they find it good luck , jason

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Theirs no replacement for displacement !

funny you bring that up........ i just posted pics of my front end mods. although my frame was already link pin i hate the way berrien just bends the top rail down to the beam. there was almost no room for mounts for my power steering ram. this new setup seems so much better.http://www.woodsbuggy.com/index.php?opt ... =23&t=8457

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i really like bills setup im just not to sure how it will work with the fiberglass body.
i have thought of 2 simple ideas option a: would to take a piece of 1.5 dom and run it up for the bottom of the frame and notchit into the top rail and weld the clap to the face of it

or b: would cut the top just after the bend and extend it to the beam

note i plan on putting the spider brace on the front aslo

Dangit bill, you beat me to the punch. I was gunna sugest what bill did to his. Not only is it easier to line up, but stronger, you may be able to notch the body if its in the way.

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I just got done with this mod! I heated the tubes slightly as suggested ( just enough to bend the tubes to point at the king pin tube) Then I cut off the mounts and added approx 1 1/4" of 1 1/2" tube so that they would reach the king pin front. For strength I welded a 6" peice of tight fitting pipe inside the 1 1/2" piping and extentions and ground it all smooth. I'll post pics of the finished frame later today. I'm sure this is the strongest point in my frame now!!!

ok so about got most of the work done to the other buggy so its time to start workin on this one again so when i mock up the beam should i have it at 90 deg from the bottom of the frame or tilted back a little bit?

Look for Toradi's thread rebuilding balljoint front end. He asked te same question and got alot of answers within the last 2 weeks.

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I just cut the curved part on the other side and did what Ron had done. On the KP your tubing will come down further for the brace. Right now there's 4" between the top tubing and the beam.

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Tony