IDFs or IDAs? IDFs should function fine and putt around all day with the right setup. 44's are a little large for a woods 1915 IMO, but can be jetted down and choked down with smaller venturii to work pretty good on one.

I'd stay away from the cheap stamped sheetmetal chromed carb bases and tops if possible. They warp easily and leak between the filter element and base, even when you grease 'em up. Cuased me more clogged jets than I care to remember. And cheap paper elements will fall apart in short time. At least try to get aluminum bases and tops and cloth K&N style elements that you can clean and re oil. Wellworth the price difference in the long run.

NEVER i repeat NEVER buy cheap air filters they are the life line for your engine.you should always buy the best fuel and oil and keep both of these as super clean as you can.always ,always buy the best air system you can.it will save you more money in the long run.and always clean and check for dust leaks before every ride.i cant tell you how many guys trash a motor because they buy junk and never check them or clean them and then they think a/c's are junk cause they have to rebuild them every year.if you was standing in a dust storm would you want a paper mask on your face or a scba(self contained breathing apperatus)or even a good cartrige filter.i think you can see my piont.i buy good air filters and i even wrap mine in panty hose to help they are cheap and add alot of protection to help keep the dust out.jmo.chad

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NOW GAS IT!!!!!

That sounds like your floats is set too high, I had the same problem for a little while until I got it figured out, it took me almost a year of trial and error to get it set up correctly, believe me, it can be a pain in the ass, but well worth it in the long run.

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"Loud pipes saves lives"

Gasman is right, why save some little $$$ when you can buy a good set of air filters for just a little more $$$ than buying a whole new engine because of saving some little $$$??
Here is a great set you can buy and I think it is well worth the $$$$...http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=550

You would want to buy the #3365 and #3366, that will be your left and right side assemblies with a very good set of filters that is just as good as the K&N ones are and the mounting base is very nice too, you can get whatever height you want, I like the 6" ones myself. I think that CB Performance makes the best linkage systems as well, once it is setup, you will never have to go back Good Luck on your options.

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"Loud pipes saves lives"

I have a set of intakes if you need a new set. They are just the ones that come with the cb kit. I second kybuggy on the bases and tops, the sheet metal ones are crap. I run the k&n knock-off filters, and the k&n foam pre-filters (not the sand bags). Once I went up a size or two on the idle jets, clogging them was a thing of the past. Another thing on jetting, the jets that come in your carbs are almost never the right jets. You can make them run, but with some jetting work you can make them run alot better. Does anyone else run bowl vents? Takes care of that down hill stalling issue!

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Maybe you should chug on over to mamby pamby land....

Buy yourself a new set of Big-beef manifolds from CB Performance, they make the best fuel delivery systems you can buy. http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=532 call them if you have any questions if not sure about which ones you need, you will need to know what heads you're running so they can tell you which ones you will need.

About the setting up the duals, I can explain it to you a page a mile long, but I am gonna try to keep it short as possible. the dual 44IDF may be too big right off the bat depending on what venturis and idle jets you have in them, the cam can play a role on how big or small your carbs will need be too, you may have a good start on what you have now. Whenever you get your manifolds fixed to where it ain't sucking air, the best way to setup your duals will be using a synchronizer, I prefer to have 2 of them that way your not moving it from one to the other, the linkage will need to be unhooked from the carbs and then try to adjust your flow as evenly and smooth as possible, if the engine does not want to idle, you will need to adjust your mixture screws until it would like to idle, the best way to adjust the mixtures is to firmly seat the mixture screws then back them out 1-1/2 turns on all 4 of them and that should give you a good baseline, if it is running too rich after 1 turn, your idle jets are too big and if you go more than 3 turns and your engine still runs too lean, your idle jets are too small, if the flow does not want to meet evenly from one carb to another, you may have some worn-out butterflies on your throttle shaft. Once you get the idle and the flow set correctly, you can hook you linkage back up and adjust your linkage to where it will meet exactly how you got the carbs set up on the idle screws, if not, it will throw them off then it will not idle correctly and you may have to start over. I have been through mine a lot of times and my experience from this is the best way that I can do them. Remember....your idle jets will only provide your engine fuel mostly from idle-3000 rpm then it will slowly let the main jets take over then they will work together as one until it reaches a certain rpm then the mains will do the rest by themselves.

It may rev like crazy right off the bat, but when you put a load on it like when you drive it, it changes everything, it may not take off real quick like it could rev quickly sitting still. You may need to adjust your accelerator pump, floats, fuel pressure, etc....Believe me, it will be a pain in the ass trying to figure all of this out you will be glad you learned from it too, all it takes is patience and a few beers and you will accomplish it. That will be all I can tell you and then you will see what I mean when you're finished setting it up correctly. Good luck and let us know how it went.

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"Loud pipes saves lives"

I never had to run any bowl vents, alot of mine came from the floats being set too high then finally got them figured out and then the downhill stalling/flooding went away. The plugging up jets is the thing of the past for me too, I run 2 fuel filters in the supply line and a set of jet doctors too As far as the filters go, I am now running the CB performance air assemblies with the K&N look alikes, outerwear pre-filters and the foams for shopvacs that you can buy anywhere for them, they slide right over you filters nice and tight for $4 a piece.

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"Loud pipes saves lives"

Ok they r weber 40s and they need rebuilt accelorator pump and every other seal in them r junk dry rotted . But anyways does any one have a left side intake manifold for dual webbers

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sit down!!!!! hold on!!!! and scream!! cuz we're going
1915 counter cRank, mofoco 042 maule 94's vz15 and 5 rib built to the max!!!

Check these out, not a bad price.....http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/VW-Weber ... 4cedced971

You can get rebuild kits from CB Performance........
http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=1200

You would want the good rebuilt kits, not the cheap EMPI rebuilt kits.

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"Loud pipes saves lives"

I ran the cheap chrome filters for years. Silicone a gasket to the carb then the base to the gasket & silicone the stacks in place with gaskets between them. Tighten it up & let em dry. Use good K&N oil on the gauze & use red high temp grease to seal both ends of the filters to the chrome. Cover it with an Outerwear & you are set. I never had a problem in 4 years & all I ever did was clean & reseal them at the beginning of each season. Its all in the prep work.

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Ok jets. 115 mains. 50 air. 50 fuel. How's that sound guy

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sit down!!!!! hold on!!!! and scream!! cuz we're going
1915 counter cRank, mofoco 042 maule 94's vz15 and 5 rib built to the max!!!