OK im running a 3 rib and it will be on the street 80% of the time so im not looking for some big stroker.
My plan is to build a 1641 or 1835 have to see about getting my case open and how much. but planing on somewhere around 10 to 1 comps with 110cam and 1.25 to 1 rockers with good rods and a cw crank and a 40carb.
so what heads would work good with this set up the heads im look at are
MOFOCO 042
CB 044

Also what is a good cheap cw crank that not crap i have been looking at cb cranks

also if you guys think i should look into a diff set up or should change something just say i want a good running buggy for the woods.

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My ECOTEC swap http://www.woodsbuggy.com/index.php?option=com_jfusion&Itemid=10&jfile=viewtopic.php&f=23&t=11394

i have run a 1641 for along time with the 3 rib and it has the 110 cam and i have 42x37.5 valve heads on it and i ride on the road quite a bit,it's not road legal(wv laws suck)but when it's 4am and time to go home i will take the back roads and then i have about a 4 mile run of main road to the house.with this combo it's great in the woods have no problems at all.when im on blacktop though it seems like im in between where i need to be in gearing and power.the 3 rib has a big jump from 3rd to 4th so on the back roads im shifting constantly trying to keep my speed up through the curves.when i hit the main road seems like once i hit fourth i havent got the top end power i need the rpm range is running high to run about 55 to 60.it's wound tight to run with traffic.i havent got a tach or speedometer but i'm pushing it to keep up and i would not want this combo if i was going to run alot of road.i have 31 inch tires though,you may put a taller tire on and do better but i have never run bigger tires so dont know.this is just my experience with my buggy.if you are going to have your block cut for larger jugs go with the 94's and run a c/w 69 crank the cost is basic the same from the 1835 to the 1915.they run great in the woods and would probably give you the extra power to run better on the road with the 3 rib.imo.dont know if this helps but i thought i would give you info on my buugy with this combo.chad

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NOW GAS IT!!!!!

You should buy my new 2387!! if your going to bore the case, just go with 94mm jugs (1915), it will cost the same.

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Maybe you should chug on over to mamby pamby land....

I like the cb 044 head over mofco . The cb have more room for porting down the road .& like Nick said go 94mm same $

You can by a stroker crank for a little more then a c/w 69 . Go to DRews swap & sale for parts march 28

I know but then i will need to start looking for a trans to right or would my 3 rib hold up to a 2110 or arund that size. i seen someone on here say anything bigger then a 1915 on a 3rib will not last long and i plan to beating the hell out if it thats why i was think about going with a 1835, but im think im going with 94s And where is the swap meet at



thanks this is with i was looking for and its nice to know i can do more porting if i want to. I have ran mofoco 41s on a 1641 before i liked them but i know when i had i had them everyone told me i should of got CB. also i think im will go with the 94s just need to find someone close to louisville to do it for me.

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My ECOTEC swap http://www.woodsbuggy.com/index.php?option=com_jfusion&Itemid=10&jfile=viewtopic.php&f=23&t=11394

I no guys that brake 6 rib with 1600 & guy that run 2332 3 rib & cut tires ship parts to Drews & get them at the swap & sale.

i run a 3 rib with a 2180 and a heavy rail, aboone runs a 3 rib with a 2275 and neither one of us are easy on the gas.

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lets just ride

sounds like next year im going to a 2110 and see how long it runs

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My ECOTEC swap http://www.woodsbuggy.com/index.php?option=com_jfusion&Itemid=10&jfile=viewtopic.php&f=23&t=11394

the main thing with making the tranny last is driving style and tire size andwhether or not they are cut.... i run a 3 rib in both my buggies and one has 1915 with 33 cut boggers and the other has 35 cut boggers and i have broken about the same amount of trannys in each one but have also ridden over a year before breaking in either one them

if u dont dump the clutch and are quick to get on the clutch and or off the gas when a wheel jumps up off the ground and just be easy on the reverse any time then the 3 rib will last for a while especially if it is a newer like 72 - 73 - 74 model as they are supposed to be the strongest of the 3 ribs at least that what ive been told before also you might buy one of those torsional input shafts from weddle along with sway a way torsional axles and that should help it or any other tranny ( 3, 5, or 6 rib ) u run last also

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Just Stand On It!!!!

Chris

I know of a couple guys here in Louisville that can cut the case and build it for you, as long as you stay away from stroking it. They are pretty old school and dont believe you should put even an 86 mm in a stock case, they think I'm lying about the 2500s built out of stock cases in London all the time. They call it "drag race only stuff" (And they dont advertise here, so I dont use 'em much)
If you want someone who is comfortable building real performance A/C VW, the closest place for you is in London at Southern Buggies (606) 864 2217. Next closest would be Davis racing (765) 763 7709 http://www.davisracing.com/ in Morristown, IN. Both are top notch builders and contributing advertisers.

Its going to be late summer but can you pm the info on the guys here in town. im just going to run a 1915 and does any of the guys cut heads to it would be nice to have the same guy do all the work. Thanks

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My ECOTEC swap http://www.woodsbuggy.com/index.php?option=com_jfusion&Itemid=10&jfile=viewtopic.php&f=23&t=11394

PM sent

Not to knock CB's 044 heads but if you get their lower priced heads, (as I did) there will be a lot of work to do to them. Don't know if this is common to all brands. Judging from the step in the chambers they were opened up from 85.5mm to 94mm, which would be right. However the only change to the combustion chambers was a groove made by the tool that cut for larger valve seats. There was no chamber work done which left sharp spots that would cause hot spots. The chambers are are close but not equally cc'd. There was a lot of flashing from the cast obstructing cooling air through the small passages. Extra flashing does give more surface area for cooling but not when it plugs or restrics air flow. They can use better blending under the valve seats. Also had to remove flashing to install little air deflector plates. You get what you pay for so go with their super mags or ultra mags which have this work all ready done.

They sure are'n pretty to start off! But with a little elbow grease, you will have a nice set of heads for minimal money. I bet even if I bought the most expensive set of heads out there, I wouldn't be able to leave 'em alone

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Maybe you should chug on over to mamby pamby land....