HI i brought this thread up sometime ago but i had computor problems and i could not log on to this website so got that fixed know my question is i have a 1915 with engle 110 cam and a weber 44, when it was running back in the fall it would spit sputter and backfire thru carb and exhaust. the plugs are black and the tailpipe is black and sooty also, the engine idled roughly and it had a flat spot but after 2000 rpm the thing just screamed i have adjusted the carb till my fingers are worn out, the 2 screws i have to back out at least 2 turns to even get a response from the motor. i adjusted the valves and set the timing with no good results either, the engine has good compression also, it has F 11 emulsion tubes and the idle jets are a 60 thought about going to a 55 or a 50 i just tried starting the motor a few days ago and know it wont stay running at all, it will not idle at all without dying know, even pumping the gas it quits, i did put a electronic points conversion kit in it back in the fall it ran then but not great! it was not a brand name one but i paid $30.00 for it, i was thinking maybe changing back to the original points and see what happens? any one had similar effects with there motor after installing electronic points?? thanks

I have a similar 1915 with the same carb. The 60 jets should work. I have f11 tubes with a 155 fuel 190 air. I also have 2 inch stacks siliconed to the venturies to keep fuel from sloshing into the venturies. I recently learned that a zero pump jet will clean up the low end stumble. I also run my float at half of factory level & run 5 to 6 psi fuel pressure to make up for it. The screws on the front should be run in 1 at a time till the motor stumbles then backed out 1 1/2 to 2 turns.

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HI thanks for the reply, what do you mean by zero pump jet?? and were is the fuel and air jets located?? not too brilliant on carburators they are my biggest nightmare thanks

The fuel jet is in the bottom of the emulsion tube & the air jet is in the top. They slide in. The pump jet is at the bottom of the float bowl I think. I just learned this tip & havent gotten to changing it yet.

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HI my motor is a 1915 engle 110 cam,, and outlaw 044 heads, weber 44 carb, just checked my carb my main gas jet is 180, air correction jet is 160, idle jet 60, is this a good selection?? carb wont idle, it loads up and fouls plugs! they are black dry sooty in color the exaust pipe is same way, tried adjusting screws does not change engine speed at all it has no response! what does the float set at?? when it does run it is rich will burn your eyes it is so strong this thing is a nightmare

your idles are to large. expecially if you are running close to stock heads. i run 55's on my 2332 with bretty large heads and it tends to foul plugs at an idle. i would try 50's. My uncle runs 45's in his 1835 with dual 40's and it runs like a scalded dog.

The air jet should be larger than the fuel. At least .025 but I run .030 to .040 larger with great results. If it loads up at idle run smaller idle jets.

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HI my heads are outlaw 044"s they are big! it is a 60 know, i was thinking of going to a 55? or a 50? not sure i am going to get both jet sizes tomorrow at the buggy shop, i noticed the bolt on the accelerator pump is screwed all the way up the slightest movement of throttle sprays a high flow of fuel thru the squirters in top of the carb,thinking?? maybe this is the problem?? how far do you back out the tiny bolt on the end of the pump rod on the accelerator pump?? do i just have to tinker with it to get it right?? or is there a specific measurment on the distance it should be?? also does anybody know what the float level setting is?? thanks

Try the 50's. I run my floats low on purpose. They are half of factory setting. I dont know about the accelerator pump adjustment. I never had to touch any of mine. You definitely need to increase your air correctors or reduce your fuel mains.

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HI this carb is used so it sounds like maybe somebody didnt know how to jet properly, i am going to start over i seen on CB performance basic good starting point for jetting procedures for a single weber 44 is 1.65 air jet, 1.60 main gas jet and 55 idles trying 50 idles first though! thanks for the reply

this is a good starting point but probably still a little on the fat side

55 idles, 150 mains, and 175 airs will probably be close to within 1 size up or down or at least that is what i ran when i ran a single with 044 heads to the best of my memory at least

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Just Stand On It!!!!

Chris

HI its got 60 idles know whoever jetted the carb put 180 gas jets and 160 air jets totally backwards! i may just try 175 air and 160 main gas jets with 50 idles since it is loading up pretty bad on the 60 idles know, however like it is know it idles rough but after 2000 rpm or so, it really runs strong and pulls hard thanks

I had a Weber progressive on another suby engine and I tinkered with the jets for months. On one ride one day it was stumbling and I thought I would try something and I switched the jets and it ran better than ever. My dad has it on a beetle now.

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If your clutch ain't slippin,, you probably got it adjusted right!!!!!

Small air jets will make it go rich up in the rpm try 55 idles what is your timeing if you run race gas . try 32 or 35deg at 3000rpm . do one thing at a time

HI!! i just got carb back together! i havent started it yet, i boiled the carb in a kettle of hot water on the stove, it cleaned it out real good lot of junk in there put a fresh rebuild kit in it, i went with a zero pump jet, 160 main, 180 air, 50 idles the shop didnt have any 55 idles! hopefully i will get it on in a few days and i can report back how it does thanks for all your help

YEEEEEHAAAAAAAAAAAAAAW i fixed it she fires right up with just a bump of the key switch, she sits there all purdy and purrs to me AWE!! music to my ears i went with 50 idles 160 mains and 180 airs there is no stumble on acceleration and no loading up when you give her gas she instantly screams to life! very potent sounding. i do not know wich fixed the dreadful stumble on acceleration?? it was either the 50 idles or the zero pump jet i put in there while i had the carb tore down and rebuilted it for the third time but the main thing is she is fixed i havent drove it yet i will see what she does after 2000 rpm for i mess with the main jets? hopefully i want have too, i think 180 airs will be just right though i never really rev that high anyways, but i will fine tune those?? when warmer weather comes!! thanks for all your help and suggestions maybe someone else can use this as a guidline on their 1915 thanks

i will try posting picture again

here is a picture of my buggy i built, and she has no more weber 44 blues she is fixed

And also my sweet purring motor

also here is a picture of my bug i built although currently i am changing things on it, it doesnt quite look the same it will look better i went with a one piece fiberglass front prerunner hood no headlights, and i am grafting a FABTECH prerunner bumper for a 1999 to 2003 ford f 150 four wheel drive i picked the bumper up cheap on ebay, it looks as though the bumper was made for it! i will have to trim some on the end though? should look awesome when once mounted! went with a 1600 dual port motor with 88 mm slip ins with a engle 110 cam and straight cut gears, stock heads and decided on a weber 4o carb for it thanks for all your help

Functional preheat does wonders it eliminates flat spots and loading up due to the intake icing up. Also fuel pressure is critical. Like already stated adjusting the float a little lower also helps.
CB Performance sells jet doctors that also help. Using a Bosch fuel filter for a 1988 digifont Vw Jetta keeps the fuel clean. www.aircooled.net has a tech article for Weber IDFs.

HI i dont have the heater tubes due to my style of exhaust, so i had to run it without them, i had the dreaded flat spot all last summer hot days, cool days! it didnt matter it still stumbled on takeoff! however it is gone know, either the 50 idles fixed it or the zero pump jet in the bottom of the float bowl? i will see what it does when it warms up outside i do not drive my buggy in the winter! i do not like cold weather uasually if it falls below 60 degress she is put up until spring, do i need the heater tubes during summer months?? thanks

Niether did mine. My welder and a little bit of pipe solved that. The best way to do it is to run heat from one exhaust port as pictured while at the other end tie it into the top of the collecter like VW did. Hooking it up to both exhaust ports may not give enough heat. When it gets below 50 I can tell the difference and have to keep the choke on longer. I was going to redo the preheat this winter but here in central AZ it is already over. Wrapping the section from the exhaust port to ther intake with header wrap should also help.

the exaust on mine radiates a lot of heat. i have noticed it kinda forms a pocket of very hot air around the carb and manifold area shortly after a few minutes of running engine, maybe i can get by with this. i spent a lot of money on my ceramic coated exhaust, and welding on it would destroy the finish! i will do this when the finish gets rusty with age but right now even in 20 degress weather i have no problem with hesitation or stumble on acceleration thanks

I hear that about the ceramic exhaust, thats a lot of money to make it look ugly. While only a chrome plated Tri Mill I duct taped off the exhaust except where I was welding. The down side to larger jetting to compensate for lack of pre heat is the engine is now running rich to compensate, eventually the cylinder walls / rings get washed down and the oil diluted with fuel wearing them out prematurely. If your only driving a few miles on weekends it does not matter. I can't cheat like that since I drive the rail daily with most of my off road trips being 120-250 miles. My engine is 20 years old and since its first overhaul 3 years ago already has 15,000 miles on it.