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 Post subject: Re: CV questions
PostPosted: Thu Oct 22, 2009 9:47 pm 
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Joined: Tue Apr 21, 2009 9:56 pm
Posts: 124
Location: Clarksville, TN
Ok, so I got my transmission.. So decided I was gonna pull it apart and take a look inside it to make sure I didn't buy an oversized paperweight. Took the nosecone off, took all the bolts out of the next part thinking if I can get that off I'll get a good look at the insides. Pulled the snaprings off the shafts and one off the center stud for the gearshift, and I can only get it to come up about 3/4 of an inch. It acts like something is still holding it, any ideas? Did I miss something somewhere?

Another question.. What is the gear ratios and ring and pinion in a sedan trans as opposed to a 002 3 rib?


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 Post subject: Re: CV questions
PostPosted: Thu Oct 22, 2009 9:51 pm 
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WB Videographer
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Joined: Tue Dec 25, 2007 12:40 pm
Posts: 1617
Location: selmer tn. pickwick tn.
u got to have the right tools to get it apart,,,u got to pull the diff then take the nut off the pinion bearing and drive the pinion out with a brass rod,if u aint got the 2 tools to take it apart u cant get it apart


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 Post subject: Re: CV questions
PostPosted: Thu Oct 22, 2009 10:05 pm 
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Joined: Fri Nov 23, 2007 11:27 pm
Posts: 496
Location: Chandler Az
I'm with looking for something wrong causing the CV to bind. It should be a lot cheaper to fix the cause than cover it with an expensive band aid. The stock cvs are plenty strong for a 1600 my buddy had a 16000 cc turbo that he drove like he would die if he was not first and fasted through the desert and could not break them. I don't know about those chinese new ones your getting.


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 Post subject: Re: CV questions
PostPosted: Fri Oct 30, 2009 2:06 am 
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Joined: Tue Mar 25, 2008 12:08 am
Posts: 234
Location: Ladysmith B.C. Canada
If your set up was all stock, then there is a lip on the axel that is probably pounding into the CV. Being that it is the same one, check your bump stop, transmition alianment and wheel alianment.
Next, it won't matter how fast an engine you have if your buggy can't handle the terain at speed. You'll only be able to drive as fast as you can control it. Flat or tame road, no problem, some wild stuff, forget it. So where and how you ride should base your decision on what to upgrade first. Do the engine for flat and easy, do the suspension if you want to get into the meat of things.
Also if you want to make the most travel out of up graded suspension, don't forget longer travel shocks. I went with EMPI race prep 930's, then figured I could get more travel than what torsion bars are good for with out being to stiff. So I've got hiem jointed spring plates, 3X3 trailing arms and 14" dual coil over shocks, which should provide at least 16" wheel travel. P.S. The rear shocks with springs were $1,200.
So for economy , midle of the road suspension, stay with the bus stuff', 2X3 trailing arms and torsion bars.


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 Post subject: Re: CV questions
PostPosted: Fri Oct 30, 2009 12:15 pm 
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WoodsBuggy Addict
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Joined: Mon Feb 19, 2007 2:23 pm
Posts: 2039
Location: Central Indiana
streetstock174 wrote:
Ok, so I got my transmission.. So decided I was gonna pull it apart and take a look inside it to make sure I didn't buy an oversized paperweight. Took the nosecone off, took all the bolts out of the next part thinking if I can get that off I'll get a good look at the insides. Pulled the snaprings off the shafts and one off the center stud for the gearshift, and I can only get it to come up about 3/4 of an inch. It acts like something is still holding it, any ideas? Did I miss something somewhere?

Another question.. What is the gear ratios and ring and pinion in a sedan trans as opposed to a 002 3 rib?



Gotta remove the ring gear and carrier to take the tranny apart to get to the pinion nut.
Need this to take the pinion nut off to get any further into the gearbox.

Image

Sedan has a 4:125 or 3:875 R&P depending on model.
002 3-rib most likely has a 5:375

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