Has any body used these or have an opinon on them. They appear to be well built and use Torriton roller bearings. I will assume for the moment they are built in China for the price.
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp ... 0&CartID=1

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Water cooled Dry Sumped Subaru Powered Turbo Charged Fuel Injected 2500CC Tank. Oh Rah! He who dies with the most Toys not only wins, He also wears them out!

For that kind of money China might be high class. The are forged, but from what material? They do use Torrington bearings, but what are the king pins made of? They don't have any way of sealing out the dirt from the bearings, they won't last long. Can you get another king pin when you need to replace the original one? And you will need a replacement when the rollers lock up from the dirt and start to wear into the king pin. In order to make things cheap you need to do two things, have cheap labor and use cheap materials. Cheap labor makes junk and so does cheap material. My opion, you get what you pay for.

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I guess I will find out what I payed for lol. I ordered a set of them to try. Worce case I can allways make bushings for them. I have inquired on the Samba and few posts came back positive so what the heck. The material says Chromoly however there are different grades of that so who knows. I dont know if you can get the pins however I will make a call to find out. I would thing that parts would be avalable. If they hold up its a cheaper altenative to the 5 and 600 dollar units. In any event I will let the board know how the work out. Will probalby put them on over the winter.

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Water cooled Dry Sumped Subaru Powered Turbo Charged Fuel Injected 2500CC Tank. Oh Rah! He who dies with the most Toys not only wins, He also wears them out!

Ya, let us know how they work and hold up. Hope you get more than your money's worth.

Yea me too! Some times you just gotta be the Guiena Pig. Its my turn in the barrel! Bill and I are headed for Wellsville tonight you and Dave gonna make it?

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Water cooled Dry Sumped Subaru Powered Turbo Charged Fuel Injected 2500CC Tank. Oh Rah! He who dies with the most Toys not only wins, He also wears them out!

I will be down probably Sat. sometime. I think Mike's arrow is aimed at getting his combos and arms done.

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When in doubt, hit it in second gear!

Dave's right, I'm going to try and get some work done on my stuff. I'm bending the crap out of the stock stuff I'm using now. Besides that I'm getting some flak about not running my own stuff, I'll put that to bed right quick. I also need to add some weight to the front to keep it from doing wheel stands going up some of the hills. Not enough time in the day to get it all done.

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I received the Combo Spindels today. From a visual inspection they appear to be well built looking very similar to the Fodril units. I need to find bearing to fit them to the VW link pin drums. The inner bearing needs to be 1 1/2" ID and the outer needs to be 1" ID. Any sugestions?

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Water cooled Dry Sumped Subaru Powered Turbo Charged Fuel Injected 2500CC Tank. Oh Rah! He who dies with the most Toys not only wins, He also wears them out!

Well I have discovered that the Combo spindels use Ball joint backing plates even tho they are Link pin spindels, go figure. So Much for using my existing drum brake set up.

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Water cooled Dry Sumped Subaru Powered Turbo Charged Fuel Injected 2500CC Tank. Oh Rah! He who dies with the most Toys not only wins, He also wears them out!

I thought I had a solution to your problem then I recalled the spindle bearing diameters you have to work with. Any good bearing supplier can match up bearings based on size, O.D., I.D., width and application. Because it has a ball joint backing plate I'm not sure what hub you will need to use with that big of a spindle size. A ball joint rotor can be machined to fit the link pin spindle with a different set of bearings. You might be able to adapt the link pin drum to fit that big spindle. As far as brakes, who knows?

Sounds like that great deal on the spindles has diminished some already.

That's part of the problem buying from a LOT of places, they tell you just enough to sell you some piece of shit and then your on your own. They won't tell you that you need special this and custom that to make the damn thing work.

I belive in truth in advertising. I have had too many people express intrest in my ball joint conversion arms and spindels, right up untill I tell them ALL of the things they need to do and buy to put the whole thing together. I could be like the rest and keep my mouth shut about the details, but I couldn't sleep at night if I did.
Lots of luck with setting them up.

I guess I am the only one running a BJ frontend? lol
I never could keep a kingpin tight. Stock KP spindles are weaker then BJ ones, imo, too. I have seen lowered KP spindles that use BJ spindles... that looks pretty cool.

heck yes i love ball joints break one it just cost 10.00

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i dont always ride my buggy but when i do im glad it has a bad ass bow tie makin the horsepower

Jesus loves me, but everyone else thinks im an asshole.

Our Lady of Blessed Acceleration, don't fail us now!

I have been very lucky about breaking ball joints. I guess the reason I haven't had much trouble with them is my buggy is light (around 1200 lbs). I made my own extended front trailing arms and I can run a ball joint for 4 years (or until the boot gets torn) and then replace them. As long as the boot is good, they last. I have stood my buggy straight up and dropped it many times and have never broke a ball joint. I have seen them break , but most of the time it is because of bad shock(s) or spring plates.

I run ball joints too, only problem I've ever had is just becuase I missed a nut come loose and it popped out. I'm not easy on it either. As long as you're not jumping it a ton, they hold up just fine. So, I don't beleive all the king pin rumors that float around.

-Blake

Mike, The bearing size i listed is in error. They are actually 1 1/4" instead of 1 1/2". Tweeds uses the same spindel dimentions on theres and he has the proper Timken bearing and seal part numbers listed on his site for use with link pin drums or rotors. it is my understanding that there is not enough metal on a ball joint hub to make the bearings fit and still have enough meat to be stong. I can use a ball joint backing plate with link pin drums or a ball joint caliper mounting bracket (or make my own) and run link pin rotors. As you say it would have been nice to know that up front. One more thing I discoverd after looking at them really close is one of them has play in the king pin even after putting grease in them. I am working with the supplier to get a set that are tight. As I stated in the beginning at least there will be information here for those that are considering purchasing them. As of now based on my findings if i had to do it over again i would not buy them. As you stated you get what you pay for. I knew this going in however sometimes I just get cheap lol.

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Water cooled Dry Sumped Subaru Powered Turbo Charged Fuel Injected 2500CC Tank. Oh Rah! He who dies with the most Toys not only wins, He also wears them out!

I hate to say I told ya so, so I won't.

Ha!Ha!, But you just did lol.

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Water cooled Dry Sumped Subaru Powered Turbo Charged Fuel Injected 2500CC Tank. Oh Rah! He who dies with the most Toys not only wins, He also wears them out!

Hey Odyknuck, Ive got some on my buggy and they seem to work fine, Iam running stock king pin wide five hubs and got my bearings at a local bearing supply shop,As far as front brakes goes when you go to any combo spindle Iam pretty sure you have to run after market brake systems,I have seen them priced from 425-950 just depends on what you want

Did they have play in the king pin s when you got them. How long have you been using them and how much have you beat on them. How much play is in them now.

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Water cooled Dry Sumped Subaru Powered Turbo Charged Fuel Injected 2500CC Tank. Oh Rah! He who dies with the most Toys not only wins, He also wears them out!

no play in them as of yet, only been riding on them since memorial day,they have been holding up great so far

combo spindles...
we found that combo spindles require combo spindle bearings(strong rollers... open races) and combo spindle hubs/wheels... once you go combo, you are comitted
they are hell for stout though.... so i am told

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let me get this straight.. i get PAID for this job?http://www.honkernet.net/AHS/departmental/industrialarts.htm

I run combo spindles with stock kingpin hubs cut down,you can buy your bearing with the king pin hub O.D and the combo spindle I.D. works great and saves money on buying other hubs

[quote='sharpshooter']I run combo spindles with stock kingpin hubs cut down,you can buy your bearing with the king pin hub O.D and the combo spindle I.D. works great and saves money on buying other hubs[/quote]

If you get a moment, would you start another thread on this process. It may help some people that are on a budget. I would be interested in looking at what exactly you did and possibly some part numbers for the bearings and seals. This would be great information to have p

AS soon as I get a chance I will look my part numbers up and post them,the spindles are latest rage and are very heavy duty.I bought the bearings at a local industrial supply store.The only mods done to the hubs is where I cut the drum part of the hub down,so basically a stock king pin hub will fit with the right bearing,the bearing must be very common, they had no problem matching up the #s

That's pritty much the samething I'm doing up here to get ball joint rotors to fit link pin spindles. Different set of bearing and races with some machine work and they work great.

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Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.
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