hey all, new to the buggy world, came from dirtbikes/quads. i picked up a roller with a locked up motor and a trans, i dont no what kind it is i will post pics tomrrow. i already disassembled the engine and thinking about the EK15 BIG BORE BASIC ENGINE KIT 94MM, 1915CC from larry's off road. im lookin for some power will this do me okay for a starter. the engine has no acc. so i will need an ignition of some sort. also i was lookin , i dont really see how the tranny and engine bolt up in the frame. am i blind or is it just held in there with 2 bolts?like i said i will post pics tomrow. next is the wiring, thinkin a painless performance wiring with the key, switches and breakers all in one.
the last thing i can think of tonight is the rear schocks.. can anyone recomend a cheap but stiff pair?
sorry for all the questions on my first post, just very excited
thanks

Welcome!!! I think the 1915 is a good starter. I'm sure others will chime in.

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When in doubt, hit it in second gear!

dont spend all the money on painless products,jus wire it urself for about 20 bucks

Its already painless to wire a buggy, you dont need one of their overpriced kits. And a keyed ign switch is usually a bad idea on a woodsbuggy, most people have trouble with them in a short period of time. A toggle to give power to the coil and a push button for the starter solenoid willl give less problems.

You dont want stiff rear shocks either, unless you WANT to flip often.

If you already disassembled the engine, how do you not know how it is mounted to the tranny??
Two bolts on top go thru the tranny bellhousing to the engine block (called the engine case), the one on the passenger side also goes thru the starter. Two studs on the bottom of the case go thru the lower tranny mounts and thru the bellhousing, with a nut on each of them on the tranny end of the studs that pulls the engine to the tranny.

i agree

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Just Stand On It!!!!

Chris

i run monroe shocks on the rear of mine pretty cheap and has lifetime warranty.

yeah they are not hard to wire it yours self there is a wiring diagram on here somewhere i think is where i got it from and i was just 16 and wired my buggy up i thought it was gonna be real hard but it was NOT but like larry said with the toggle and push button never have had to change either one of them and i also put them little black boots over them to make them water proof, you come to the right place to find out bout buggys ive found alot out bout them on here actually i was like you always came from a family of atvs thats how i got my buggy was by tradin a atv to it but anyway 12 gauge wire and 10 gauge wire is that i wired mine with and thats everything from the lights to everything i have on mine

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Brandon

well the engine was in a box, not hookked up to the tranny, not in the buggy. thats why i asked, just one of many stupid questions i will ask on here. anyways im thinking about ordering the engine kit today. do i need to grab anything else while im building it>? any recommendations. i got 3 sets of heads, prob stock. will these hold ?

The only stupid question is the one that doesnt get asked.

Would be a REAL good idea to get someone in your area that you know has built many VW engines that have ran well and long to help you with this build. You cant rely on a good domestic engine builder either. These VW's are a different animal. I work with many highly trained, experienced and certified mechanics that cant do nothin to a VW without screwing something up. Find someone willing to spend some time and teach you how to maintain it and how to diagnose problems with it before they turn into major problems. They are definately not a jap factory ATV motor. You have to be interested in the VW engine, and enjoy learning about it. Its not just a "pour gas in the tank and never think about it " engine, at least not when you are starting out.

Where do you live? Maybe someone on here can direct you to somebody close to you.

You do know you will have to get the case bored, and the heads cut open to use the 94 mm jugs, right? The line bore and thrust wear needs to be checked , especially since it was locked up. You should consider additional oil filtering and cooling with the bigger motor. New chromloy case studs will add lifespan to the motor as well, and case savers. The heads need to be inspected by someone who knows what they are looking at, too.

Spend the money on a decent set of carbs, too. Duals are much easier to tune than a single center mount, unless you gonna stay with a stock Solex. And if your gonna do that save your money and build a 1641. The best built motor their is will run like ass if you got a crappy carb on it. There is nothing more frustrating starting out than a new motor that you cant get to run right because of a "hole in the rpm" progressive, or a dirty, worn throttle shaft junky set of old worn out duals. Get a good set of Weber or Dellorto duals. Kinda pricey, but if you get 40's, they will be responsive on your 1915, and big enuff to upgrade engine sizes on up to a 2500, throughout your buggy riding 'career', and you will always have a set of good carbs that you are familiar with.

Not tryin to scare you off it, but I've seen it a hundred times someone just getting into buggies throw a load of money away, especially on their motor, and then get discouraged and think they are just junk and give up on them.
Get the motor done right the first time by an experienced person. It shouldnt cost more than 3 hundred bucks or so plus machine work for them to assemble it. It could save you big money and frustration in the long run. Done right, a 1915 can be a very reliable , long lasting , good running enjoyable little motor. Done half-assed, and it can be the biggest pain in the ass POS you ever fooled with.

i apprecitate it, im going to school for avaition and the piston engines are just about the same to the vw motor. i live in cincinnati ohio. i will be getting dual carbs. after reading the forum, seems like everyone praises them. drews off road said they will bore the case. just dont know how much. i also found a turn key 1700 for just under 1k. should i go that route and be done with it quicker or build it. ?? also what kind of tranny is this? will i need to upgrade? http://s114.photobucket.com/albums/n263 ... tled-2.jpg

thats a car tranny - if your going to build a 1915 then get a 3 or a 5rib bus -- i run 5 rib on my 1915. I blew up 3 car trannies in a week after i went from a 1641 to a 1915

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harleys and vws----ac all the way

I love my country, But i fear my government

welcome hauser, this is definately the right place for info on any buggy advice you might need, i live in cinti also , in carthage, so i'm close by if i can be of any assistance, i'm always upgrading and working on mine, its worse than crack!!! ha did you buy yours off craigslist from a guy in western hills? just curious! anyhow good luck with your build, get it done and letss go riding!!

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ANTI- antifreeze!!!!!!

no i bought it in westchester , where i live. i decided not to sell my banshee to pay for my motor so it will prob be a month or so till i get the motor build going. have you rebuilt a vw motor? also where you ride at?

Welcome to woodsbuggy. Sounds like a great start. kybuggy1 knows his stuff, Great advice for someone just starting.

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Bryan

Call Drews he is in Hamilton OH 888-go-drews

no i had drews build my motor but i've done just about everything else you can do to one, we usually ride at haspin acres cause its close, but been to d&k, black mountain in harlen ky., and the buggy farm in walton ky. , cool little place but you have to be a member or 20$ when they have a open ride

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ANTI- antifreeze!!!!!!

When is the open ride at the buggy farm? ,,,I would love to go there sometime .

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If your clutch ain't slippin,, you probably got it adjusted right!!!!!

i dont know when the next one is but they usually post it in the upcoming events when it gets near or look at one of the old posts for contact info

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ANTI- antifreeze!!!!!!

yeah i live like 10 mins away from drews. did they do a good job at building your motor? how much they charge?

k well, been a very long time since i updated this. i dont work on it much, but i did get a week off from college so i spent just about everyday workin on it.. girlfriend wasnt to happy anyways i basically have tranny and engine in , and running. i do need a to finish making my mounts , which arent pictrued yet. i found a 1600cc running engine for 250.00 with some dual carbs, not sure what size yet but deff need to be rejeted. o well here is what i got so far..






yes i know my gas tank should go there, it wouldnt fit anywhere else due to it being a end fill. im going to fab up some bars to go around it

Please relocate the gas tank below the roof and out of harms way. That is the worst location for it. Its a fire/explosion waiting to happen. Have you considerd what a rollover is going to do to that tank? And believe me you will roll it at least once.

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Water cooled Dry Sumped Subaru Powered Turbo Charged Fuel Injected 2500CC Tank. Oh Rah! He who dies with the most Toys not only wins, He also wears them out!

I'm n the process of building a role cage around it. Why wouldn't it work

Im with Ody on this one. Nothing is gonna make that safe enough. Not to mention that full of gas thats 80 pounds of ballast throwing off the center of gravity. Get an 8 gallon square one at jegs & put it low as it fits if you have to.

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kk well i guess il take the mounts off and burn in 2 more somewhere...

If the problem is getting fuel in the tank due to the filler placement just get a funnel & modify it to get gas in the tank. I had mine behind my seats so low I had to use a funnel & it works fine.

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If the problem is filling like said b4, I have a solution that works for mine. I got clear plastic tubing from the hardware store that fits my spout on my gas can. Makes it easier to fill at an odd location.

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