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PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2009 6:35 am 
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Joined: Sun Mar 22, 2009 3:39 am
Posts: 665
Location: Leslie County, KY
got my buggy in febuary has a 1600cc and a 3 rib gonna put bigger motor and trans in it i know you gotta tweak vw's alot but ive herd the bigger the motors are the more you have to tweak them i would like to go to at least a 19??CC to a about 21?? 22?? cc motor

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2009 6:43 am 
You get one that is built right, and you never have to Adjust on them.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2009 7:13 am 
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Joined: Fri Feb 02, 2007 1:39 am
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Location: Louisville, KY
Bruce is right. Thats the biggest misconception I always hear about large displacement or hi-performance vw's. I work on my 2500 or my boy's 2387 WAY LESS than I did my junkyard 1600 or second hand 1679. If you run a dry sump, change the oil and adjust the valves once a year (maybe 12 rides, if I'm lucky enough to ride that much). Run full MSD and you dont even need to think about the plugs til its time to re-ring it, and that was 6 years on his motor. And the carbs do NOT need constant adjusting like some say, either. If they are in good shape, set 'em right the first time, maybe tune a lil more after one ride, ane all you gotta do is keep the filters clean after that. A bigger stronger motor strains less to move your buggy around. It may be a fairly expensive investment when you build it, but like Roy says, buy the best cry only once. Try to run worn out stuff, and you'll cry every ride. Built right, they are very reliable and extremely durable considering what they are put through.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2009 12:19 pm 
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BOTM Winner
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Location: Petersburg, Ky
I even like to argue that a bigger motor is easier on the trans. With a 1915, I still had to beat it to climb anything, and with a 2332 I could just walk it up a hill at a much lower rpm. You can also beat that same 2332 and just about break the trans at will :mrgreen:

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2009 3:06 pm 
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Joined: Sun Mar 22, 2009 3:39 am
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Location: Leslie County, KY
yeah i know what you are sayin about the stock motors ive just had mine since febuary didnt start ridin in it till march or april and it has a new fuel pump push rod tubes in the motor valve been adjusted twice points and all kinds of stuff but i ride alot about everyday

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 20, 2009 12:13 pm 
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Joined: Mon May 14, 2007 10:14 am
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how about a bad a## 1915 and a 5 rib engine has 2 rides on it to tune it in everything brand new and tranny is fresh


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 22, 2009 12:45 am 
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Joined: Fri Nov 23, 2007 11:27 pm
Posts: 496
Location: Chandler Az
Like KWbuggy says built right they need minimal work. A drysump is worth its weight in gold. My 2180 lasted 19 years and about 20,00 miles before I had to take it apart. It still ran good just had water damage. The crank and cam had no wear. With the DeMello full race weight crank even the line bore was fine. The VZ 30 style cam ate up the lifter bores and valve guides. The big things are how much do you want to spend and what characteristics do you want it to have? If you just want good power and good manners from your engine, consider a 1915 with a VZ 14 cam and a single 44 mm or dual 40 mm carbs or 2386 with a W110 cam or VZ 15 cam and dual 44 carbs. You'll have lots of torque to climb hills and still have great bottom end for low speed maneuvering.


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 22, 2009 1:40 am 
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Joined: Sun Mar 22, 2009 3:39 am
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Location: Leslie County, KY
ahh after i sell mine motor and trans i would be lookin to spend around 1000 to 1800 on a motor and trans

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 22, 2009 9:05 am 
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Joined: Fri Nov 23, 2007 11:27 pm
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Location: Chandler Az
Even as good as parts finder as I am that would be a tough job. Have you collected any parts yet.
You might want to keep what you have and gather parts for a year or two. If your patient some good new/used parts deals can be found.
When have a place in town sells used line bore, opened for 94s and full flowed for $300
The cheapest new chinese stroker 82 mm crank I have seen is $250
(even a good CW 69 mm stroke from DPR is $175 and his 82 is $340)
CB unitech rods 5.4 mm (CB H beams $225) $140
A set of 94 mm pistons $200
30 mm shadeck oil pump, gaskets,bearings,oil filter good hoses, fittings $350
cam, lifters and pushrods, push rod tubes, solid rocker shafts $300
Good set of heads and intakes (Steve Tims Stage One) $700
Used set of Italian/Spainish Weber 45 mm carbs, overhaul kits and jets $600
balancing parts $130
Kennedy Stage one pressure plare $130
Good used 3 rib transaxle $300
T-2 stub axles, cvs and axles $600
You also need to add shiping charges and 10% for miscellaneous
This would be a decent play 82x94. They 1915 would only be about $50 cheaper as long as you can clearance your own engine case.
Without a dry sump oil system you have to pay close attention to your oil pressure guage.


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 22, 2009 9:33 am 
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Location: Highland Heights,Kentucky
I will be selling a new 2332 with Super Flows heads and dual 44mm. Webers for $4000 complete in the near future and that is with Scat internals.


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