im gonna try and do my first engine and wondering if these are worth rebuilding im lookin to build one anywhere from a 1914 to a 2180 whats you all think heres the link to the heads

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Super-fl ... ccessories

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Brandon

I'd pass.........for what you are doing.
Those appear cut for 94's, while they will fit a 1915, your typical 2180 uses 92's pistons.
All the power is made in the upper RPM range with those.
You'd have as much in those getting them fixed as you would a good set of CB 044 heads.

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Gary

Turbo VW Sand Racer
Polaris Ranger



"If you don't run into the Devil every once in awhile, you must be going in the same direction!"

Davis Motorsports FaceBook Page

They are drag racing only and even if you were drag racing by the time you repaired them they would end up costing more than a better used set. Get with Steve Tims he has great prices on his custom made heads. He will set up valve size and port volume up for the cam, carbs and weight you want to use. He will also let you know if your going in the right direction and suggest gearing and jetting. www.performance-workshop.com

no drag racing for me but sometime i drag race my buddy when he on his 4 wheeler but i mainly ride off road any special kinds of lube or anything i need to put a motor together

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Brandon

If you have never assembled a performance VW engine , save yourself a lot of heartache and money and find someone who has lots of experience (several builds that you know have lasted a good while) to help you , or pay them. There are numerous people on here and among our advertisers that will assemble one for you at a very reasonable price.
It is admirable to want to do it yourself, but dont try it on your first one, especially if you are on a budget. Even if you are experienced at other motors.

Lots of stuff. Bore guages, micrometers, feeler guages, torque wrenches, deck hieght tool, flywheel holder, engine stand, ring compressor. I use Redline assembly lube, whatever cam lube that gets supplied with the cam and oil for the rings.
Silicone for barrel to case seal one tube is enough for many engines. Permatex aviation cement. Also access to someone with a surface grinder and lathe is very helpfull. Here is a bit of assembly work on a 2387 I am building.

For a friends new engine I decided to get get the preclearanced, pre opened Autolina engine case I wanted to try for a 86x94 engine. I ran into some of the shortcomings others have. The main bearing oiling holes do not line up with the bearings correctly.






A couple of minutes with a grinder cured that.




[IMG]http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc281/perrib/2386/Billsengine022.jpg[/IMG

Next step was to correct the mismatched oil pump holes. It was a shame to grind on a GB oil pump.



I had cut another groove for a second o ring on the GB pump and also plugged the case but the pump fit very tight in the case and might not of needed either.


Another bigger problem is the edge of the casting next to the oil pump narrowed as it approached the oil pump.This leaves very little for the o ring of the Gene Berg oil pump to grip. It narrows alot where I marked it.



The cam bolts clear the pump with room to spare. Bill wanted the quiet timing gear after hearing my CE straight cuts.



There was plenty of engagement for the pump drive.



The cam bearing thrust was tight at less than .001. It now has .0025" of clearance.


The cam has less than .001 run out.


Even though Autolina had hand clearanced the case the distributor drive still hit.


Even the Gene Berg oil sump needed a tiny bit of clearancing to clear the case.
The engine case had a tang that needed 3/16" taken off of it.

Trial fit of the oil sump. Note the Demello 86 mm crank and Demello 5.5 "H beam rods.


DeMello crank

DeMello rods


Bugpack gland nut and washer.


I have already mic'ed the crank and checked the rods, piston pins and case with a bore guage. The rod bearings needed opening up a little but all the others were spot on. Even only two pistons needed a tiny amount of aluminium to be removed to even them up.


The China Pac, no the Bug Pack made in China pressure relief valve diameters were a good .010" too narrow.


Most of the rings were within specs.
A potential gripe is the lifter bores were not held to .001" clearance. Two were .002 in spec but for a Hi Performance case .001 would of been better. For the Engle 120 cam it should be fine.
While not looking any different than other lifters these are the German Udo Becker tool steel lifters that can be reused on different cams and need no breaking in.


I have the tool for the relief valve screws but these new Bug Pack ones with a hex head were to cool to pass up. To bad China Pac struck again the hex is to big for a socket to clear the engine case and the threads are not the same pitch as any case I have here.

Next week I willl fit the cylinder and pistons and set the deck hieght.
Like most stock cases the deck is off by .25 mm from right to left so each side needs differnt size barrel spacers. I am in it about 14 hours so far.