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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2009 12:30 am 
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Since I busted the boot on my buggy last week and got to takin a look at her and decided I am goin to tare this thing down and fix/upgrade a lot of stuff..Nothing much wrong with it just little stuff but I wanna be able to drive this thing on the road by next spring.
So now I have a few qustions about some stuff I am goin to order.
engine..
1915 scat kit..
Hopein I can use a holly carb?
Wantin to fix my pipe were I can take the muffler off easy for trail ridein.
and some crome. haha
I have my suspion pretty muched figerd out.
2x3's in the back.
set of good axles Mabey the longer bus axles if they will work?
Not sure on frount end atm. Dont kno if I wanna go king pin or rebulid the bj beam.
Tires is my biggest problems right now.
I want a 15.50 dot tire. I have seen the super swamper sx's they have a 33x15.50x15.
Frount tires?? what is a good dot aproved tire?
Also will a coilover buggy handle good on black top?


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2009 3:13 pm 
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Location: Central Indiana
jarfly wrote:
1915 scat kit..


Beware of the version with the cast crank.

I never liked "kits".
You always get things you don't need and need things that are not included.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2009 7:34 pm 
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Location: Caro, MI
Changing from ball joint to king pin requires frame surgery and considering it is what keeps the entire front of the buggy together it is not for amateurs.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2009 7:54 pm 
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Location: Fort Wayne, IN WoodsBuggy - NOMAD Chapter
Surgery? I thought you just swapped out a whole new beam setup and wala!

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2009 7:59 pm 
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Location: EAST LIVERPOOL, OH
diff. beam hieght i believe

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2009 8:25 pm 
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Well I swapping one out in my daughters buggy, I'll let you know what I have to do.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2009 10:06 pm 
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Tubes are farther apart on bj than on king/link pin.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 28, 2009 6:51 pm 
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4.75" center to center on a linkpin, anyone got a balljoint to check on?

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 28, 2009 8:51 pm 
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Location: Chandler Az
Bugzyla.com sells a beam that fits the ball joint spacing but uses link arms and spindles.
With stock LG spindles 29-30 " tires are about the max the left front tiny spindle with the speedo hole can take. Get someone to magnaflux them. The ball joint spindles are stronger but cannot be easly modified for more travel. My 33x9.50 tire passed me at 50 mph when the spindle broke. Nanco has some aggresive 700 15 tires as does Yokohama.
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Use 3x3 or 3x5 rear arms the kits are almost the same price and you get more travel. Handling is a function of how well camber, toe, thrust angle and bump steer are set up. Both the torsion and coil over suspension will act bad if the alignment is inncorrect.

Don't bother with a engine kit. Assemble the best engine parts you can afford for what your attempting to do. Next you have to decide if you want to race around or cruise. You don't want to build a transaxle killer. Gearing may also need to be changed. There is quite a price difference. What are your plans for cylinder heads. You also need to include an upgraded oiling system. I just came back from a 70 mile ride with someone who had a Holley carb on a 1915 it kept loading up in rough terrain. He never fouled a plug but the mileage and rings were suffering. A single or dual off road Weber IDA carb(s) might be easier in the long run.

Just run a dyno max muffler. That way it is easier to hear pinging, broken fans and other problems before they become big ones. Make it a slip fit with a side by side bolt through clamp if you want more noise. A muffler might need two of them.
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