Not buggies but a lot of us have them to get us to the woods. This is my buddy Roy's 6.0 Powerstroke. It developed the dreaded oil in the coolant problem. The 6.0's have a oil cooler directly in the motor under the intake. It passes coolant through the oil cooler and cools the oil. It also passes coolant around the EGR cooling EGT gases. Well the oil cooler basically melts down and gets a hole in it then starts leaking oil into the coolant stream. Talking to several people about the issue we figured out what it was and figured we would attempt to save almost 1000.00 by doing it ourselves. He got the aftermarket oil cooler and EGR delete kit from liberatorperformance.com thanks to BadVW for putting us in that direction. The aftermarket cooler is actually the stock cooler modified and tap to pass the oil to a large external cooler and the EGR delete makes sure coolant never passes the oil again. This is supposed to be the end all do all fix for the 6.0. We got it all tore down in one night about 5 hours of work. It was really quite simple to do the hardest part was getting the turbo off the top. Anyways here's the pictures we should have all the parts today and hope to have it all back together by the weekend.

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2332cc Air Cooled Screaming Meanie. Predator Singleseat.

"Lets go get stupid"

I spotted the problem right away! It's a ford! hehehehe

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When in doubt, hit it in second gear!

Woah now I don't think a Chevy could even get to half the mileage that ford has haha and its a baby with 175,000. The 328,000er is sitting outside running smooth as butta. Besides it was International that F'd up the oil cooler design LOL!

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2332cc Air Cooled Screaming Meanie. Predator Singleseat.

"Lets go get stupid"

Thought about doing that to my 6.0 , but the diesel techs here at work said it would raise my EGT's significantly, especially when pulling big loads. They said its fine for a commuter truck, but not a good idea for a truck that tows pretty often. With the 6 gun and Banks bundle on my truck, on setting 2 or 3 it already runs about 800* while cruising and gets close to 1200* EGTs when pulling long/steep hills when loaded. 1400 is the point where a stock turbo starts getting cooked.

These guys like to error on the conservative side, though. Does your buddy have an EGT gauge and pyrometer? If so let me know how the bypass effects his EGT's on the next long trip. Thanks

Hope y'all cleaned them rubber turbo pipe coupers REALLY well, and the outer ends of the pipes. I think thats why mine would blow off every time I've had a load on 'er for the last 3 months.

Larry

Hey Larry I am hearing the exact opposite. The guy from liberatorperformance said once these two mods were done it will be built to tow and have the shit run out of it. Badvw already has the EGR delete on his and he tows loads all the time enclosed 30 footer. Yes he has guages I will let you know. His will roll down the road 8-1000 and pull 1250 on big ones. 1450-1500 is melt down time. Now my 7.3 will run down the road 700 and maybe hit 1100 on big hills with a load. It will never creep 1100.

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2332cc Air Cooled Screaming Meanie. Predator Singleseat.

"Lets go get stupid"

Thats good news to me! I know Chad's is one badass truck, didnt know he had the egr delete. Mine started blowing the lines every time out after I had to replace egr valve, egr cooler, internal engine oil cooler and turbo. 6.0s have a variable Garret turbo, and the techs said mine had been "locked up" and had not been variable for quite awhile. I know something was different because it hardly smoked a lick even after Banks bundle, but now it will roll coal on 4 or higher when I tromp on it, and it accelerates even harder.
My top coupler (hotside out of the turbo towards intercooler) blew several times I think because it was the Banks one and its about 4 years old now and it seems a little cheezy compared to stock. I got a new one and cleaned the shiz out of the tube end and it was fine, but the bottom one (hotside in to intercooler) blew on the way to Harlan. I had loosened the bottom one when I installed the new top coupler and fired it up before retightening. I think that may have let oil get between the rubber and hard line. I cleaned it all again at Harlan and it did fine on way home. But now I think I got another injector about to crap out. 3rd one , 75,000mi on the truck . I'm about to the point where it gives me one more problem and I'm sellin it and trying to find some old man selling a nice low mileage 7.3, or yankin that f-er out and doin a Cummins conversion.

Yea Larry I LOVE my 7.3. Roy just did all 8 injectors at once about 2 months ago nice bill there (150k miles) and now its time for the oil cooler. The guy there is saying that blowing 1200 up the hills and holding it for a while is what is melting the oil coolers. Now with this external kit it supposed to be 50 degrees less oil temp and no more coolant problems. Never blew a coupler yet on any of the trucks we have around here running around 22-23lb of boost. Maybe those banks ones are crappy? We like the Diablo sport tuners around here. I like the 6.0's for power they seem like they run a lot better than the 7.3's in stock form. Now juice em up and different story haha. We will get a ton more pictures when the parts get here tomorrow. No internet at my house until Tuesday so they won't be on here until next week :/

Low mileage 7.3 is anything sub 250! 6-800,000 Mile motors from everyone I have ever talked to about them.

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2332cc Air Cooled Screaming Meanie. Predator Singleseat.

"Lets go get stupid"

Kid i used to work with has a 6.0l and took it to liberator.... expensive.

Ya really! Jack up the lisence plate and back a DODGE under it!

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"YOU CAN MAKE THINGS HAPPEN, WATCH THINGS HAPPEN OR WONDER WHAT THE F$$K HAPPEND...WE'RE MAKING THINGS HAPPEN" The strong words of Captain Phil! Rest in peice!

Back in December I was on my way home from D&K, (I was topping Jellico Mt) I had the cruse set on 90 mph. When all of a sudden I looked in the rear view mirror and it looked like I was on fire. (White smoke and some dark black mixed) Looked down at the heat hand and it said you could fry an egg on it. I pulled over checked the oil looked good but the coolant was way low. I had to ease to the next exit (only 65mph) to fill up with water. Drove it all the way home but If I got in the fuel a lot, where the boost would go over 15psi it would smoke badly. About 20 miles before I got home all of a sudden it got very hot again, and shut the truck down. I let it cool for about 15 min. and it started right up but smoked like a tar kettle. (The out side temp was 25 degrees so it would cool fast) I had to stop 3 more times before I got home. The next day took it to the Ford place. When I pulled in it looked like I was on fire again (my wife followed me to the dealership and called me about a mile before we got there to tell me you she had to slow down because she could not see the road for the smoke) 2 sales men came out with fire extinguishers to put it out. But when I turned off the motor it stopped. Long story short it had 75,000 miles on it. It had busted the turbo cracked both heads, burnt some oil cooler up, and many other parts. The repair cost was $5295.00 ford paid for it all except $100.00. (I was lucky)

Good choice Kyle and Roy on picking the place for the kits, I have a Liberator EGR delete kit that I am running 2 years now, I had it put on when I had my head gaskets and heads replaced around 55,000 miles and even had them to buy head studs and put them on as well When the truck is finished I paid $100 for them to do it too!! Then I bought and after market turbo housing to take everything inside the stock turbo out and put it in the new housing, it only lets me get more air volume, but no more boost than 32psi, I can tune the computer to make the turbo put out up to 36psi if I want it to. I also bought stage 2 injectors from Elite Diesel Engineering and put them on as well. It took me about 6 hours and 18 beers to take the turbo and the injectors out, then put the new injectors in, take the stock turbo apart and clean it, put it back together in the new housing, put the turbo back on and then test run the engine to make sure there is no leaks and give her hell!!

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"Loud pipes saves lives"

My truck runs around 700 degrees on the highway empty in the summer and around 550 in the winter empty at 65 mph, about 850 on flat ground pulling my box trailer at 65 mph and 1100 on hills like around 4-5% grades at 65 mph. There is a huge difference between a standard 6-speed and an automatic, I like the power transfer better with a six-speed because it does not take 40% of your motor's torque to turn the automatic, the standard takes around 10-15% and it also gives you better mpg overall, gearing also plays a major role in your mpg too. I have 3.73 gears in the axles and it is a 1-ton straight truck, most duallys will have 4.10, but that will be better if it was an automatic, there are many different possibilities that you can have to make the truck perform the way you would like it to. It took me 3 years to get mine running like it is now and I have came a long ways to get there from the trials and errors that I have been through. I even put a F-550 clutch in it around 20,000 miles, it now has the factory F-550 dual-mass flywheel and pressure plate and a South Bend 8-puck Kevlar clutch in it, I burnt up the original clutch when trying to do a burn out with too much brake pressure applied and the rear wheels would not break loose and the clutch started turning instead oh well, lesson learned now I can put it in 3rd gear and let the turbo spool up around 20 psi and let it out easy until it barely starts to roll then dump the clutch and mash the throttle at the same time and holy SH*T!!

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"Loud pipes saves lives"

What is it doing that tells you it may be an injector? Have you been putting in any fuel conditioner when filling-up everytime? I use Power Service ULSD formula that you can buy at Autozone for around $16 for a gallon jug, I use about a pint or 2 everytime I fill it up from 1/4 tank, and sometimes mix transmission fluid with the dose once a while, so far, no problems, yet

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"Loud pipes saves lives"

It sounds like your EGR valve got stuck and it was spiking your coolant temp through the roof, not letting the hot gas go on through to your intake manifold and that will cause the coolant to puke out of the reservoir until it gets too low and hot enough to increase your engine operating temperature and then causing your heads to warp and/or crack and it also can break your oil down to the point the where the oil viscosity will not be worth a crap for your turbo and burn up the bearings and also the spiked EGT going into the turbo as well, I very highly suggested that any 6.0L owners should put on a pyrometer to keep and eye on the EGT to make sure it does not get too hot, like Kyle said, they are not really made to pull a good sized load up a hill and keep it there especially on cruise control. The cruise control should shut itself off if it detects a high flow going past the EGR valve after a period of time to protect itself from overheating due to high EGT temps.

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"Loud pipes saves lives"

Larry try some hair spray on the inside of the hose and some on the outside of the pipes,then tighten clamps..My cummins used to blow them alot and I try ed it and no problems any more and my boost gauge see's 45-50psi a lot

destroked sells the best kit to fix the 6.0 problem.....

What is EGT?

What are some web sites? and do those kits void the warranty?

EGT=exhaust gas temperature

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"Loud pipes saves lives"

You talkin about the "Destroked" kit ?
Yeah , it might slightly violate your warranty .......They have kits to put Cummins motors in Superduties
They are WAY too high though, FordCummins.com will sell you what you need for about $600, unless you wanna retain your Ford Torqshift 5R110 5 spd auto or run an Allison 1000. Then you need Destroked's $1600 stand alone computer.
http://www.destroked.com/projects/projects.html
http://fordcummins.com/
http://www.liberatorperformance.net/about.html


And the EGR deletes will technically void your warranty ,also. Unless you are in tight with your dealership service mngr and a tech. No "bolt ons" will void mine . But it runs out in September anyways .



The same thing it was doin when the other two started going out
Low rpm miss when its cold , gets a little better as it warms up. The first one laid down completely all at once. The truck carried on like the pistons was swappin holes that time, thought a rod was gonna come out it. Never had a diesel before this one, and the sounds it made when that first injector went out was crazy.

Thanks. I used spray tack adhesive last time. (hairspray, just a different label )

Yea the oil cooler does not void warranty because it is still in stock form just with a remote cooler. EGT or exhaust gas temps, is just your exiting exhaust. Get those temps up in the 1400-1500 degree range and your cooked. O and F a cummins. Why would I want to go down the road just blowing black fuel out of my exhaust wasting MPG!

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2332cc Air Cooled Screaming Meanie. Predator Singleseat.

"Lets go get stupid"

Yeah , it might slightly violate your warranty .......They have kits to put Cummins motors in Superduties
They are WAY too high though, FordCummins.com will sell you what you need for about $600, unless you wanna retain your Ford Torqshift 5R110 5 spd auto or run an Allison 1000. Then you need Destroked's $1600 stand alone computer.
http://www.destroked.com/projects/projects.html
http://fordcummins.com/
http://www.liberatorperformance.net/about.html


yea i knew there where others, i just figured id get all the ford guys fired up....

my cummins got 17 mpg with hx 40 hybrid @ 55 psi , edge comp drag box, hypertech programmer, 75 hp inj, and running 35inch tires.....my buddies stock powerjoke gets 12-14 in stock form

I HOPE IT WILL RUN AGAIN . I will tell you if runs better