Ive got a motor that has about 15 good rides on it,it is a 2332.I got it running and i noticed that the motor would idle up a little when i would barely press on the clutch pedal.The motor seemed like it had a load on it with the clutch fully decompressed,odd i know.So i checked the end play and it has a lot,probably at least 10 - 15 thousand's.My question is,what do you guys think about me shimming it back out and running it,or should i go ahead and tear it down and rebuild it?Also how much damage would it cost me if i shimmed it and ran it for the summer?

did you ever check the end play before you rode it?was it a fresh rebuild 15 rides ago that's not alot of riding to wear a motor that much, but 10 to 15 thousands don't sound like that's enough to be scared to shim it and run,but maybe somebofdy else can way in on this one.chad

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I got the motor from a buddy to run until i get mine built.Im just curious what some of these engine guys on here think my best route would be.Im thinking just shim it and run it until she goes,because it is going to need rebuilt anyway.

i would put it back down there around 6 to 8 thous.and run it

Check your clutch arm to make sure you have freeplay. If your slave cylinder is too tight it will cause the pressure plate to push against the thrust bearing a little all of the time. It will quickly make your engine have a LOT of endplay.

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Be carefull reshimming an engine.
You have to be certain problem is because of excess end play rather than a bearing that's lost it's crush and moving in the case.
If you tighten the endplay and the culprit was a loose in the case bearing, you will lock the flywheel to the bearing and rip out the case dowel pin holes.

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Gary

Turbo VW Sand Racer
Polaris Ranger



"If you don't run into the Devil every once in awhile, you must be going in the same direction!"

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I got another question,i ran the motor for about 5 minutes and then parked it and i noticed the motor seemed hotter than it should be.The fan shroud was very hot to the touch.I dont ever recall any fan shrouds being that hot before.Im running a dry sump and a electric fan on my oil cooler.Do you guys think it is running hot because of the load it has on it?When i was running it around,i could press the clutch pedal slightly and it would speed up and take the load off the motor,so i assumed that it was running hotter than it should because of that.The more i think about it,maybe i should just tear it down or build my other one so i know i'll be good to go for the rest of the year.What ya think.

do you have a hydraulic clutch?does it speed up in neutral?reason i ask i was wandering if you had a cable clutch and maybe it was moving your throttle cable,just a thought trying to throw some things out there.or your pedals are moving a little and pulling the throttle some.speeding up just because you push the clutch in don't sound right,or at least i've never heard that before so let me know what you find out, post it cause curious to see what you find out.chad

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This is the wierdest thing ive ever seen on a buggy.I have a hydraulic clutch and i even took the slave cylinder off and pushed on the clutch fork with the palm of my hand and it idled up and took the load off the motor.I know,it is totally opposite of what you think should do,but i called a friend of mine and he said his motor is doing the same thing,but his motor has been together for 11 years.He told it was the end play and sure enough ,the end play is looser than hell.It all makes sense,since when we push in on the clutch,it takes the preesure off the motor and with the end play loose or wore out,it allows the crank to move back into its comfort zone.I probably would'nt have noticed it,but i was adjusting on my clutch.

When the crankshaft moves it messes with the timing some. When you have a motor with a lot of endplay they cannot be timed properly because the time bounces around a lot. The distributor drive gear runs off the crankshaft gear. It is a helical cut gear so moving the crank back and forth has the same effect as advance and retarding the static timing.

I'm betting that when you push the clutch it is letting the crank move in the block and advancing your timing. Have a buddy work the clutch pedal while you watch the timing with a timing light, I bet it will change by several degrees.

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Will it move straight cut gears though?

Your cam gears may be straight cut but your distributor drive gear is always helical. The movement back and forth causes the advance/retard to happen via the distributor. As the gears mesh in a engine with proper endplay, they stay in the same basic place relative to each other. When you get excessive endplay the gears are able to slide further up or down the teeth while spinning. Because the gears are cut at a pretty steep angle a little bit of movement at the tooth will cause the distributor to advance or retard 10-15 degrees. The crank bounces back and forth in the case so the distributor can hold steady timing because it is whipping the static timing from advanced to retarded.

Check your timing, I bet it will be all over the place when you rev it.

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I found the problem,either the case's thrust is wore out or whoever built the motor put the wrong size thrust bearing in.With the flywheel off,i can see the bearing move back and forth when i push and pull on the pulley.This really sucks,now ive got 2 motors that need building.

do you want to sell it? chad

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Sure i'll sale it the way it is.Its a strong running motor the way it is,but i'll get a price worked up and let you know.