Need to offset my rockcrawler motor . Next winters project will be either a set of babychains or 5x7's with new less offset rims and new axels. Not sure where to get either or cost. Ok guys, let me know what you think.

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if i had a watercooled car i wuold love to make it into a chaindrive with a stock 6 rib,martys chaindrive holds up real good,its a good set up,jus had some tranny trouble,but that was his fault,just a loose pinion nut

that dang 3.3 is wicked,,,on stock trannys,,,,,Mr.Eric DeBord is hooking me up though on that,,gonna be stouter plus under less stress.

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If your clutch ain't slippin,, you probably got it adjusted right!!!!!

So how bout it marty. Whats a pair of Babychains run me?

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I been holding off on building a second set till I get the bugs worked out of the prototypes. I am just about there ,,,they aren't all that hard to build ,,matter of fact I been expecting someone to build a better set cheaper. If I had to guess about price I would say some where near $1500 including tubing, axles,,stubs,,sprockets,,chain, machinework,, welding,, etc. then you gotta redo your spring and shocks,,limiting straps, extend brake lines,,etc. I don't mean to scare anyone off,,,I really like babychains,,,and they do make running a longer water cooled engine work. I will never go back to non-babychains. A boxer 4 cylinder would probably do fine with 5x7's but the inline 4 and v6 engines would like babychains. Just my opinion

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If your clutch ain't slippin,, you probably got it adjusted right!!!!!

One thing to consider with either is air bags or coilovers. Thats too much leverage for torsion bars. Also with longer arms (non chain) you'll get into moving your engine and trans back in order to get the cv angle acceptable. 930 cv's become a must too.

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A broken clock is right two times a day.

Got the 930's already adam. Ok Marty, How much for a blue print?

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Moving the engine and trans back really defeats the purpose of using the longer arms. I agree that any thing over a 3" longer arm is too much for the torsion bars and is not recommended. Mine are 3" over and I cant even get my 28mm torsions to settle out after reindexing them 4 times.

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Water cooled Dry Sumped Subaru Powered Turbo Charged Fuel Injected 2500CC Tank. Oh Rah! He who dies with the most Toys not only wins, He also wears them out!

Well I have coilovers on it already wich makes it very stiff. But was planning on going airbags when I lengthen it.

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If the the coils overs are making it stiff then they either they to large of springs and /or the valving in Incorrect. are they adjustable? Can you change the spring preload witha spanner?

coilovers on it already wich makes it very stiff. But was planning on going airbags when I lengthen it.[/quote]

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Water cooled Dry Sumped Subaru Powered Turbo Charged Fuel Injected 2500CC Tank. Oh Rah! He who dies with the most Toys not only wins, He also wears them out!

If you like the babychains,,you can build a set if you promise to make improvements. If you can squeeze a 24 tooth on back and 14 on front and run 4.86 R&P you can use second gear like your old first. This would take a lot of stress off the tranny,,,something I have not done but am in the process of doing. It will have to be modified from current dimensions to get the larger sprocket to fit in back,,I am going to use a 21and 14 but I will have to buy some internal gears to get a nicer range. I don't have blue prints but you are welcome to draw it and take pics. It is very simple to build just time consuming to do and scrounge up parts. I am glad I have waited to build a second set because I am learning how to make them better. One to one seemed fine with the smaller engine. If you decide to go one to one I have a lot of sprockets.

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If your clutch ain't slippin,, you probably got it adjusted right!!!!!

Well right now I have no problems with power, so I wasnt planning on a reduction. I have a set of stock Arms I was thinking as using for a starting point to add to. So anything to help me get this ting going would be great.

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It depends an what your looking for. More travel/comfort, or weight distribution. I am mainly going for comfort on me new buggy, it is a four seater and not a hill shooter Not that I won't try here and there! It was certainly more work and money for the longer arms

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A broken clock is right two times a day.

The reduction is not really for power but more for taking stress off the transaxle. This will allow you to run 2nd gear like it was 1st. 2nd gear is a stronger gear in your tranny and you will mostly likely never break anything with a reduction. This is how they can run the auto's in the chaindrives with V8's

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2332cc Air Cooled Screaming Meanie. Predator Singleseat.

"Lets go get stupid"

Well Kyle the problem is I also drive this on the street some. Would make it terribly slow. If I lived closer to a place to ride maybe It would be worth it. Debating a different tranny setup. going to talk to a guy tomorrow night thats a pit chief for 4cyl stock car racing. Thinks he might have some ideas.

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Just keep a couple different sprockets on hand. When abusing the transmission off road switch the sprockets to run a reduction and switch back for street driving.

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"Obstacles are those frightful things you see when you take your eyes off your goal." -Henry Ford

Ya thats what I was debating. Depends on how easy I can swap it out. 4 bolts per sprocket and wouldn't be bad. Also been talking to firebug about maybe making them adjustible lenths. So I can change the balence per traction and hill steepness. I love the balence in muddy terrain. Digs great!

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Mine has 5 bolts on the leading sprocket and 6 on the rear. I can change the sprockets in about 30 minutes or less. I am sure that you or someone can vastly improve on my design . Matter of fact I have already got some tricks up my sleeves for my next set. Griffin is planning on making a set with his improvements too. I am finallhy happy with my weight bias . Making the wheel base adjustable enough to vary for different challenges will be a complicated task but I am sure someone will tackle it someday. good luck

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If your clutch ain't slippin,, you probably got it adjusted right!!!!!

What are ya using for bolts on the rear?
Sherman kept snaping the rear off til he welded it.

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A good friend will bail you out of jail. A best friend will be sitting next to you saying: "Damn that was fun!"



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A5wGMaUMXUQ

I sheared one side at the D&K Easter Hill Climb,,since then I found some hardended bolts and should be ok now. Had to move up to 7/16-20 socket head bolts,,they should hold up.

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If your clutch ain't slippin,, you probably got it adjusted right!!!!!