hey guys, my little brother traded his ski boat for a buggy.
its an ok buggy. good little 1641 engine i think, good frame and decent front end and "other stuff"
it ran good when he got it but would not idle. the guy that sold it to him said he had somebody build the carb and they told him one of the seats inside the carb was loose and that was causing it not to idle.
no big deal right.....????? cause i still have the engine off my old buggy and it had dual solex h40/eis carbs on it.
ran really really good on our 18?? engine. so we were gonna put them on his buggy, i cleaned them a little and put them on and it idled good but wouldnt take any fuel on accel. so i took them back off, go the squirt tubes out and cleaned them and re-adjusted the accelerator pump. i think i got that right cause it idles good and takes fuel pretty good. but it just isnt running right, i've set mixture screws pretty close i think but it still doesn't run right.
NOW after that novel i'll get to the problem. the buggy still has the stock mechanical fuel pump on it. could that be the problem, its just not getting enough fuel?
it has one of those clear fuel filters on it and it doesn't look like there is a lot of fuel in it. but its kinda hard to tell.
i have my old electric fuel pump, and i can take the block off plate off of my old engine if need be i guess.
do any of yall think that is the problem, i really dont want to put that elec pump on there if its probably not the problem?
If i do put the elec fuel pump on there, do i have to take off the mech fuel pump and use the block off plate or can i "plug up" the old fuel pump and leave it in place?
sorry for the book, but i like to be pretty specific so yall can answer my question.. rather than having to ask me questions before you can even start to answer mine.
and if any body is in Florence Alabama and want to come tune on this thing... head on over... hehe.

take the line off the fuel pump,the one going to the carbs ,and turn it over and see if it pumps good,if u put electric pump on it take the old mech.pump off because the rod the goes to the cam will wear the cam out

yeah, i was most likely take the old pump off if i went that route, but after consulting with a buddy of mine that used to be pretty big into 1/4 drag racing. ( the real shit... not the local podunk track) he said he doubted the fuel pump was the problem cause that would cause the bowls to run short on fuel. and we just dont think that is the problem.
i dont know, i took her down the road and it just runs like shit from right off idle to about 1/2 throttle maybe.. when it cleared up.. the son of a bitch pulled really really hard. i dont know, i've adjusted the screws about every which way you can.
1 think i've noticed is that on the left carb i can screw that screw in all the way and screw it back out real quick and the engine does not die. on the other carb. if i get within 1 turn of seating the screw the engine dies immediately.
the on on that side has about 4 inches of hose coming from the Tee coming form the fuel pump output and the carb on the other side has about a foot and a half of hose coming from that same tee.. thats about all that i've noticed,
i'll check back in later..
also what about timing, we have not set timing it was "set" when we got it, i've got a manual for vdubs but i dont know if the timing should be different for a slightly built engine? what do yall think? recommend?

im gonna say u probaly got an air leak,take some starting fluid or carb cleaner and spray around the bases of the carbs and see if it changes the sound

well, i'm starting to get more pissed.
we investigated further and according to our old engine that has been setting in the shop for about 3 years. and consulting with the vw manual that we have......... the damn plug wires were wired wrong.
so we doubled check our old engines wiring with the book and they matched... so we re-wired this new engine to match the book/our engine, and now it wont hit a lick.
checked the points. there was virtually no gap. gaped them to .016, still nothing, moved the dizzy around a little bit, still nothing.
is our old dizzy i know is an 009, is there a different dizzy that this one could be that would have to be wired up completely different.
i dont know how the F it was running before. but now it wont do shit.. and i'm loosing patience.
lol, crazy shit huh.

somebody has probably got the distributor drive gear in wrong
you will need to get #1 cylinder up on compression stroke and and at top dead center and pull the distributor cap aoo and see where which post the rotor tip is at and that will be your #1 on cap and then just wire it up from there

_________________
Just Stand On It!!!!

Chris

we were in the process of finding tdc for #1 and realized the dizzy was pointing the wrong way... so i came back in here and saw what ridenrace6 posted and.... obviously he is right, according to the dizzy @tdc for #1 piston.
is driverside, front. where it should be passenger side rear. so we re-adjusted the points gap which was nonexistant. i think he used .016 mm instead of .016 in. lol. but that is neither here nor there.
we got it all buttoned back up and wired up the right way. and it now cranks, runs and idles. but is still dont run perfect.
i dont know if the carbs are out of sinc or what.
we set the timing at 10 degrees. and when we revved it up it went to about 32 and held pretty steady there. is that right?
the only thing i can think to tell you now as far as how it is running is if you let it idle. then you rev it up.. it revs.. pretty good. but when you let off the rpm falls. but not all the way to idle. it falls to a fast idle then takes several seconds to return to normal idle rpm.
is that in the carbs themselves as far as jets. or mixture screw.. or is that gonna be more along the lines of syncing the carbs.
is there any reason to not run the engine with the cam gears 180 degrees out? or is it fine since it is wired up for that?
what do yall think, and thanks so much for the help.

it wont hurt anything to leave it wired the way it is and the idle problem could be a carb problem but sounds more like an air leak to me

_________________
Just Stand On It!!!!

Chris

Ok still no real progress. the carb that was on the passenger side, you could bottom out the idle adjust screw and the engine just keep on running with not alot of noticable change in rpm or tone.
the carb on the other side, if you try to bottom it out, before it gets to where it is still a little over 1/2 a round out it kills the engine.
switched the carbs after going through both of them again, and it the same carb does the same thing.
sprayed a little carb cleaner around the bases of both carbs an not rpm change or anything
there isnt much to these solex carbs. aside from changing the jets all you can really do is calibrate the accelerator pump or adjust the idle screw correct?
the engine these carbs were on, ran absolutely perfect when it was removed and stored. and i assumed they would need cleaned and some slight adjusting, i just dont see how it "went bad" like this. so i dont know, i'm gonna tinker with it a little more i guess. i dont really know what else to do or try.