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 Post subject: brakse locking up.....
PostPosted: Sun Apr 05, 2009 10:44 pm 
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Location: aiken sc
every now and then my brakes lock up and you have to tap the peddal to relses them but sometimes you have to do it a few times adn it gets scarry when backing off......


i have cnc 7/8 master then 2lbs residule valve then singht handle 3/4 cnc cutter, then nisan frount calipers of a 4x4 truck


any help
thanks tanner

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 05, 2009 10:50 pm 
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bleed them ,bleed them, then bleed them some more


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 05, 2009 10:53 pm 
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there bleed trust me ive put probly 2 qurts through them and i have a valve stem in the cap to preasure bleed them

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 05, 2009 10:56 pm 
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don't know then ,it is always air in the line that make them lock up .it took GAhillclimber a year to get his bleed all the way out.air will hide in a small spot.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 05, 2009 10:59 pm 
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for some reason i thought someone had talked about a single hadndle cutter being the caouse of it .... something about adjusting it or somethieng

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 05, 2009 11:11 pm 
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Make sure you have a little bit of slack in the rods that go into your cutting brake plungers. I had mine adjusted all the way out to get the least amount of slop possible in the cutter handle, and my brakes would lock up like that sometimes. I put just a hair of slack in the rods and it quit doing it.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 05, 2009 11:14 pm 
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kybuggy1 wrote:
Make sure you have a little bit of slack in the rods that go into your cutting brake plungers. I had mine adjusted all the way out to get the least amount of slop possible in the cutter handle, and my brakes would lock up like that sometimes. I put just a hair of slack in the rods and it quit doing it.

mine was the same way check the cutter rod and the m/c rod has to have slack after the fluid gets warm

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 06, 2009 9:19 am 
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I agree, your cutting brake is adjusted too tight. You are getting a little drag on your brakes and after running for a while the brake fluid will heat up, expand, and lock your brakes. Sometimes it gets so bad that you may have to open a bleeder valve to release the pressure. Also, I know that on dual handle cutting brakes, if you hold the pedal while pulling on the cutting brake handles, they act like a parking brake and hold pressure. If you tap the brake pedal it will release them.


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 06, 2009 1:26 pm 
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thats what one of my buggies does but the other one dont :?: they both have cnc pedals and cnc dual handle cutters one is laydown handles between the seats the other is upright handles on left side of the driver both also have vw calipers and one piece rotors :?: :?: any ideas?????????????

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 06, 2009 1:30 pm 
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The master cylinder has a bypass that should be open. I had one that closed up one time and I got a small bit and cleaned it out.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 06, 2009 1:43 pm 
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One thing i learned after years of poor braking in my rail is to bench bleed the steering brake. Most people bench bleed the M/C but overlook the cutter. Never had a problem since.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 17, 2009 1:30 am 
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kybuggy1 wrote:
Make sure you have a little bit of slack in the rods that go into your cutting brake plungers. I had mine adjusted all the way out to get the least amount of slop possible in the cutter handle, and my brakes would lock up like that sometimes. I put just a hair of slack in the rods and it quit doing it.


Dam it!!! I wish I would have read this before I rebuilt my cutters. Now I have to pull my seat out again to loosen it up. Thanks for the info though, it stopped me from rebuilding my master cylinder.

BTW
Is there any other way to unscrew the plunger screw cap besides jamming a screwdriver in-between the push rod and the cap?


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 17, 2009 7:19 am 
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Dont know, I've never took the plunger out of one. I was told there is little success rate in rebuilding cutters, so I never tried. Once the cylinders get scratched or worn, new o-rings dont really help them that much from what Tim told me. Yankee tried to do a set and we never could get a satisfactory brake out of 'em.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 17, 2009 8:08 am 
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kybuggy1 wrote:
Dont know, I've never took the plunger out of one. I was told there is little success rate in rebuilding cutters, so I never tried. Once the cylinders get scratched or worn, new o-rings dont really help them that much from what Tim told me. Yankee tried to do a set and we never could get a satisfactory brake out of 'em.


I have heard the same from several people. Buy new don't rebuild.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 17, 2009 8:47 am 
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In order for a cylinder rebuild to work the cylinder must be slightly honed for the new "O" rings, cups and cylinder bore to find a new home and mate. Not much different when you put new rings in a motor piston cylinder. Just replacing the internals is usally a waste of time. Some times it works most times it don't.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 17, 2009 8:53 am 
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I honed them. I rebuilt a set of jammers 5 years ago and they still work. Tha jammers had a snap ring holding the piston in but these cnc's have a threaded cap and a set screw. Using a screw driver works its just a PITA because the set screw marrs up one spot in the threads. I have a set of Neal’s I used 3 times and started leaking I still need to rebuild them so I don't know how there held together.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 17, 2009 11:31 am 
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Odyknuck wrote:
In order for a cylinder rebuild to work the cylinder must be slightly honed for the new "O" rings, cups and cylinder bore to find a new home and mate. Not much different when you put new rings in a motor piston cylinder. Just replacing the internals is usally a waste of time. Some times it works most times it don't.


Really???? Wow. No kiddin?? DANGIT!


Yankee honed the cutters too, a little. :roll:
I know we aint got no eddicashun in KY, but I thought honing was a "given".


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