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 Post subject: how to mesure for axles
PostPosted: Wed Feb 11, 2009 9:28 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 09, 2007 2:38 pm
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Location: aiken sc
im having custom axles made how do i mesure so i have the right size ones made.....

thanks

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 11, 2009 10:41 pm 
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what size trailing arms are you going to run?

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 11, 2009 11:18 pm 
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from sway away http://www.swayaway.net/joomla/images/I ... ctions.pdf

Sway-A-Way, Inc
9555 Ownesmouth Ave, #9
Chatsworth, CA 91311
818.700.9712
Axle Length Measurement Instructions
Make a Set Up Axle:
The best way to measure your car for axle length is to use a set up axle. There are several ways to do this.
You can cut and sleeve a stock axle or any old axle that has the proper splines on it. A friction saw works
well to cut the axle in half. You can use a piece of angle iron to sleeve the axle. Cut it so that it is about 6”
shorter than the straight across flange-to-flange dimension. Use some hose clamps to hold the cut ends of
the axle in the angle iron. You can now adjust the length of the axle.
Measurement:
There are two positions that should be checked for proper axle length. One, the most important, is at full
droop. The other is at the straight across position.
Set Up:
Install the CV joints on the set up axle. It is easier if you leave the boots off. It is even better if the CV
joints do not have any grease in them. You need to be able to see where the CV center is in its lateral travel.
Full Droop Measurement:
With the CV center, centered in its lateral travel, adjust the length of the axle so that the CV joints will just
bolt up to the flanges. You do not want the CV joint to extend to the point where the CV joints run out of
their lateral travel. This will break the CV cages.
Straight Across Measurement:
Check to see that the axle is not so log that the ends of the axle contact the insides of the CV flanges when
the axle is pushed to the end of its lateral travel in both directions. If the axle length is set accurately during
the full droop measurement, the axle length will most likely OK here.
Check The Other Side:
It is important to check the axle length on the other side. Many times, the lengths are different from side to
side.
Ordering:
The most accurate way to call out the axle length is from clip to clip. Remove the axle from the car.
Measure from clip to clip or from outside of star to outside of star. Add ¼” to this measurement. This is
your clip-to-clip length on the new axles. Axle lengths in our catalog are over all lengths. Add the
following amounts to get over all lengths. Some out board hub assemblies require half dome or full dome
ends.
To get over all length for axles with flat ends:
Add 5/16” for VW 33 tooth axles.
Add 5/16” for Porsche 930 axles.
Add 5/16” for Porsche 934 axles.
Axles with ½ dome ends, add 5/16” for each dome end.
Axles with full dome ends, add ½” for each dome end.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2009 8:43 am 
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Tanner,,custom axles are very expensive,, you may be able to find something off the shelf much cheaper.Before you go to all the trouble,, make sure you are happy with your tranny mounts and trailing arms. I measured mine by getting the stub flange and the tranny flange level to one another and measuring with two masons rule's,,or carpenter's rules. Place the end on the flange about an inch off center,,just a little up the rise,,,,*(about where the axle would hit) . Do this on both ends . The rules will be side by side..look at,,,say 12" on one rule and see where the other rule coincides...maybe like 10" or something. Add these two numbers,,,then subtract 1/4". Cut a wooden dowel this length. A broom handle will work too..something about the same diameter as the axle. See how it fits..It should have some slack,,bou 1/4" slack.. do this on both sides and compare,,if they are not the same,,something may need adjusting. My torsion tube was bent some and caused me much confusion. I made up some difference with the heims on my torsion eliminators. good luck

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2009 9:44 am 
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Location: Republic of Texas
What kind of setup do you have that requires a custom axle?

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2009 10:07 am 
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Location: Kettering Ohio
I have read that the Empi race axles are supposed to be decent for the money. They come in a ton of different sizes for under $200 a set. There cv's on the other hand I've heard are junk.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2009 2:05 pm 
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EMPI axles are just fine. I havn't seen one fail yet, and for under $200 a set you can't beat 'em! The longest one they make is 28". Stay under that and you'll be in good shape. In the "a-arm buggy" build, we went with the longest axle empi makes and we'll fine tune the tranny placment when we get them. With My race car, I needed 29" axles... BAD mistake. I shoped around, and the cheapest I could find was $480. :shock: The way I measure for axles is as follows... lift your trailing arm to where the stub flange is level with the drive flange (the point where the axle needs to be the shortest) and measure there. That is really the only measurment that you need. I have an old 930 axle that is cut in half and a peice of 11/4" tubing over it (so it is adjustable) and measure with that. You want to leave a 1/4" or so of "slop" in the axle. here is a picture measuring for axles
Image

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2009 7:32 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 09, 2007 2:38 pm
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Location: aiken sc
i need custom axles b.c my trailing arms are weird..... the way its now is a stock bus axle with a spacer up top....

but i got it measured with everything level the longest i can get is drive side 21 3/8s and pasenger 22 3/8s


and yea somethings bent..... arm i think.... maybe my heims in the tortion eliminator need some adjusting

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 13, 2009 8:57 am 
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Most of the time bus trannys are offset. I usually center them so I can get the same size axle.

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