how much would it cost to build a 1776

Way too many variables that we don't know. What do you have to start with? What is the exact buildup that you are after? I don't mean 1776, I mean what carbs, pistons, jugs, case......? Do you want chrome everywhere or are you going to reuse existing parts. Generator or alternator? What exhaust? Full flow oil? I would suggest talking to an engine machine shop and run through what you have and what you want. A simple guess, maybe $2500. Maybe more maybe less. I spent $3500 on a 1915 but should have been able to do it for half that, I got carried away with fancy crap that didn't make it run any better, just shinier!

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"Obstacles are those frightful things you see when you take your eyes off your goal." -Henry Ford

Good rule of thumb is a dollar per cc.

That's just for the long block.

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Buy the best and cry once.

The same as a 1915 unless you already have parts for the 1776.

Same thing I was thinking.

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Aut Viam Invenium Aut Faciam!

why a 1776 why not a big motor

Yeah like a SUBARU

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Bye Bye Buggy, I'll always miss you and never forget you, your going to a better place now.

YEAH!!! They are practically FREE!!
2-400 for a motor with 100k plus miles that was probably never monkeyed with, $400 or more in an adapter sysyem, $100 or so in wiring harness work or several weekends going crosseyed trying to do it yourself, experimenting endlessly trying to get the suspension to work right for hillclimbing, spending a minimum of a couple hundred bucks if you go the cheapest way and use air bags. And if you want it to make real power, upgrades for subies are nearly free ,too, right?? No need to worry about reprogramming the computer when you make major changes, everyone knows how to do that in their own garage.

Why would anyone not do a subie, especially on a budget???

Tim ( and maybe some other or our advertisers) can build you a reliable good running 1776 OR 1915 for a grand if you got a good block and carburation. Then u know what u got, not something some overstressed soccer mom has been flogging on and skipping oil changes in for 10 years.

Larry

And the vw just sounds better

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Travis

OK,,for $1400 you can go suby,,,that includes a spare engine you can swap out in a day. Us suby guys got the suspension figured out,,,and with the suby its just getting broke in good at 100k miles,,but AC is cool too

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If your clutch ain't slippin,, you probably got it adjusted right!!!!!

Might as well go for the stroker motor, it only cost about $200-300 more than the 1915 cost to build.

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"Loud pipes saves lives"

Sorry to offend you VW guys I just like reliability. Wiring and adapter plates are one time buy.. Also you can find these easily with alot less miles than 100,000 mine only has maybe 60,000 on it.. So if you add all your repair cost and time in with your VW motor im still sticking with Subaru. Find a VW that never needs tuned, gets good gas mileage and has 300hp oh yeah and dont leak oil then call me..

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Bye Bye Buggy, I'll always miss you and never forget you, your going to a better place now.

And if you dont have a good block and carburation fork out another 1500 to 2000.. Also you wont have to worry about a oil change it all drains out on the floor for you daily..

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Bye Bye Buggy, I'll always miss you and never forget you, your going to a better place now.

I have one and it dont use a drop of gas

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Travis

Counter weighted crank $200, rods rebuilt $40, bearings $90, pistons/cyl. $200, Cam $70, heads $500,new gasket set $15, push rod tubes $30, block machined $75-200, 200 propane mixer $120, model E reg. $140, junkyard turbo $50, 9.5-1 1915cc @10psi = 200hp

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Travis

What does subaru or any other manufacturer of engines have to do with a price for a 1776 Volkswagen? I guess if he wanted suggestions on engines to use he might have worded his post differently like, what engine should I use?.

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"Obstacles are those frightful things you see when you take your eyes off your goal." -Henry Ford

You are right. Sorry, buggymaster.

How did this thread get off track anyways??......oh yeah , someone brought up subies. LOL

Larry

it really depends on what you have to start with. If you have a good running 1600 and just want to try and get more out of it , you can go up to 87 or 88mm jugs and pistons without having the block bored out . I would stay with 87's cause they last longer. If you are starting from scratch , i'd try to go with a 1835 or 1915 for just a little more $$ in machine work. Tell us what your starting point is to get a better answer.

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harleys and vws----ac all the way

I love my country, But i fear my government

vwtravis where can you get a model-E and mixer at for that price I will take one

Hey buggymaster,i have a 1915 longblock i could sale you at a fair price and save you alot of time and money.All you will need is shroud,tins and carburation.Or i could sale you a complete buggy with a good running 1915,3-rib,extended arms,etc for what it would cost to build a new complete 1915.let me know if i can help in anyway.

this is aircooled forum, not watercooled, we don't care about subarus in here. anyways buggymaster, build a 1915, it will be the same price and you will be much more satisfied with the power. my two cents

Sorry to get off course there..

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Bye Bye Buggy, I'll always miss you and never forget you, your going to a better place now.

Mine does not leak oil at all (YET) and I am running this motor for 2 years now and not a drop yet, still running same spark plugs and still running strong!! I think it is reliable as long as you change the oil daily, run good fuel through it, and use it wisely. I like to keep things simple, not have to mess with the wiring harness, ECM, fancy adaptors, engine mounts, radiator, and most of all I think they are too big, too bulky and too heavy for my taste. Just my $0.02 Remember, I may go for the larger engine soon maybe around 250-280hp VW-powered, I know its $$$$, but why not? I am all about horsepower whether I need it or not. So this is a Air-cooled forum, so here it is Sorry about putting this on here, but I needed to say it.

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"Loud pipes saves lives"

You took the letters right off my keyboard, Chad! Except "change the oil daily" I think that might've been a brain-fart!
I change mine once every other year whether it needs it or not.

VW based strokers ARE reliable as can be expected from anything that gets beat on like we do to them. Maybe some people have the wrong people building their VW engines
If I wanted a boat anchor hangin off the back of my ride, I'd drive a barge thru the woods. LOL

Larry

My stroker VW engine is going on it's 7th season of riding and it still has not been apart. The heads have never been off. it has only had one tune up and only two valve adjustments. It does not leak a drop of oil.

VW power is a fantastic choice for a woods buggy.

BUT, this guy is asking about a 1776, not a stroker.

Ask away if you have any more questions man..........................

Roy

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Buy the best and cry once.