I am building a 1915 this winter. Obviously I'm going to run a larger than stock cam and valves. I know there is a science to what lift/duration and size of valve I need. I'm am looking for low end hill climbing power. What does everybody else run? Or how do I figure this out? The build isn't gonna happen till after Christmas so I've go a little time to do research.

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Why do I hate everyone?...................because they deserve it

The cam is about the last choice you need to make, it is dependent on every other piece in the engine, which cam you should choose. That being said, a Engle 120 is about as big as I would go while running a single carb. It is pretty lumpy without dual carbs but fairly docile with duals. The biggest I would go is a Engle 125, but only with duals. The 125 gives you a nice wide powerband with good off-idle pull and a nice punch in the top end of the Rpms'. I'm sure other people can recommend a good cam for 1.4 ratio rockers but I am unfamiliar with them and can't make a good recommendation.

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Aut Viam Invenium Aut Faciam!

I am going to run a two barrel webber eventually. I just have a progressive now but that won't be on there long.
The size of the weber will be determined by what motor I build.

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Why do I hate everyone?...................because they deserve it

I ran a Engle 110 in my 1915 and i had CB 044's with 42x37 valves,it was an awsome setup for me,and i was running stock rockers on solid shafts as well.A VZ 15 or a VZ 25 is a good cam but they say it ware out the lifters faster because of the high ramp of the lobe.If i were you,id run a 110 with 1.25 rockers or stock rockers,but that is just my opinion and i wish you luck with whatever you decide.

Run a stroker engine, it only costs about $250 more than you already plan to build a 1915 with. I seen a 2165 run with a single Weber IDF 40 and it is a screamer and a hell of a setup!

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"Loud pipes saves lives"

baddvw is right.and spend some cash on head work its 200- 3oo bucks youll be glad you spent.

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small minds condemn anything they fail to understand!

Will a stock block (clearanced of course) hold up to a stroker, or do I need to get a alum one.

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Why do I hate everyone?...................because they deserve it

Here is how I look at it: If you are putting a nice motor together you are short changing yourself if you use a block that has been align bored. You take a chance that it was done incorrectly (seen it several times) and you reduce the times that you can do it yourself in the future if you choose. Bite the bullet and get a new case that already has been machined and ready to go.

However: If you are putting a motor together out of used parts that you don't have a lot of money in, find a good used stock block and have it machined. Avoid big stud cases if you can, the studs pull pretty easily (especially the "H" blocks), and get a dual relief case. You can put it together on the cheap and have a motor that might last a couple years while you save up for your dream motor.

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Aut Viam Invenium Aut Faciam!

Stock block is fine. 1915 is fine too if you don't want to jump into the stroker stuff just yet.

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Buy the best and cry once.

If the budget build will allow you a stroker crank I would do it.78 or 82
stroke is grunt power.

I would build a better bottom end like a 2165=78x94cc or a 82x94cc 2276 cc with a stock case.
and cheap out on heads for a year or two.

All the machine shop clearance for the same money 78 or 82.

buy the best bottom end parts you can afford like rods,head studs and be done with the short block.

you can always change heads,carbs ect.