Where is the best place to get a beeline 98 or berrien 295 fully welded including torsion at? I can weld some but want it done and to look nice.

ya know I ain't got a clue
I bet purplerail would know

BEE LINE Chassis that is were i got mind

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drive it like you know how too fix it

Depending on where you live and when you want your frame, Berrien will deliver the frame to a show if they are attending. They brought my frame all the way to GA.

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Has anyone delt with larrys offroad for a frame? Do they weld the frames or do they order them from the manufacter welded? I live in central ohio and looking for the shortest drive possible and not expensive shipping.

bought mine from tony at beeline
http://www.beelinechassis.com/index.html

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i dont always ride my buggy but when i do im glad it has a bad ass bow tie makin the horsepower

Jesus loves me, but everyone else thinks im an asshole.

Our Lady of Blessed Acceleration, don't fail us now!

I tried to get a quote from Larry's awhile back, and never heard back, but I believe they order tacked frames and finish welding them in their shop. You can get berrien and beeline from them though. My last frame was a berrien 295 I bought fully welded from Off Road Center in Miamitown (Cincinnati). They usually have a few welded frames in stock. Also, Drews Off road in Hamilton Ohio stocks some frames and will order you any frame welded or not. If your into a used frame I'll be tearing my 295 down this winter. (I think)

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A broken clock is right two times a day.

if your in cincy your just about 1 hour or so from bee line mine was fully welded with the options i wanted factory direct

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i dont always ride my buggy but when i do im glad it has a bad ass bow tie makin the horsepower

Jesus loves me, but everyone else thinks im an asshole.

Our Lady of Blessed Acceleration, don't fail us now!

told ya so

I have a packrat frame for sale

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"Loud pipes saves lives"

its a nice one

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i dont always ride my buggy but when i do im glad it has a bad ass bow tie makin the horsepower

Jesus loves me, but everyone else thinks im an asshole.

Our Lady of Blessed Acceleration, don't fail us now!

Tony from Beeline delivers to Larry's alot so you can call him and order what you want and see if he would bring it up for ya during one of his trips. You would have to check with him to be sure. I bought mine from Tony direct also. He is an awesome fabricator.

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Bryan

I know where you can get a brand new frame fully welded, all tabs and mounting brackets put in, custom built around you, made to look like whatever style frame you like, and ready for powder or paint.
Well under $1500, less than that usually. I think you may need to bring him the torsion and beam, or for a little more money he will provide them for you . I got a IRS torsion I'd take to him for you if you're interested in him doing it.
His number is 1-606-224-9921, Chuck Jones, London KY.

Larry

You read my mind, Dad! I was about to say that!!

-Dakotah

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-Dakotah/koko
keep on keepin' on!!

What is the torsion part that they need as a core, just the bar, or the housing too? Im new to all this if you cant tell!

He'll need the whole rear torsion, which is the entire rear suspension housing from a beetle.
He could use a custom torsion housing, but he'd probably talk you out of it!

You will also need a front beam, which is the two horizontal bars bolted to the frame head of a non super beetle, and all the suspension components bolted to it. Older ones '66 down (help here) have king and link pins ( and top shock bolt goes in from the side), newer 68' up have ball joints (and top shock mount is a vertical post). I think '67 has a weird balljoint with different spindles or some s%#t.

Dont mean to discourage you, but if this is your first buggy, do yourself a HUGE favor and buy a complete one ready to go. You can buy a decent buggy for half what it will cost to build one from scratch. You can take it apart to paint it or pretty it up, and learn a ton about them in the process.

Larry

There's pros and cons to doing it both ways. My buggy I have now was my first and I learned alot!! Still have tons more to learn but I don't think I would have learned near as much if I hadn't went through the build part of it. That's the pro. Cons, just like Larry said, it's much cheaper to buy a good used buggy and tear it down paint it and fix stuff as you find it. The problem is if your new like me then you don't know what a good buggy is. That's where this place comes in. Ask alot of questions and read alot. There is a ton of good info here you just have to sift through it.

Good Luck!

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Bryan

I have a 73 donor that I have the torsion and front end. Can you tell me exactly where the rear torsion need cut off at? I think it is in front of where the shifter linkage conects at. Is this correct? Does anyone have a pic of what it should look like outa the car before it on a buggy? I know it would be easier and cheaper to buy one already built but thats no fun. I want to build one. I am a hands on kinda guy with quite a bit of time on my hands and need to get outta the house anyways. AS for the money part, it's coming in slowly so it may take awhile to finish it but it'll get there, no hurry. I want it done now but I know it will take awhile. The plan is to start easy just plain frontend and rear torsion and as the years go start playin around and changin things. Thanks for all the help by the way.

Yeah, thats close for where you need to cut it. I'd say more behind the shift coupler. Cut the floor pan away from it, and the thicker "rear tunnel" area. Try not to blow thru the torsion "tube" itself with the torch. Leave the end castings intact. Your frame builder will want to trim it to where he wants it. If you go thru the trouble of trimming off all the cable guides and stuff that stick out of it , and weld up the holes they leave, and wire wheel it all nice and clean, it will save the frame man some time and maybe you some money. You could sand blast it, but make sure you plug it all up good, its a bitch to get it out of the greasey torsion tube. Also when you trim all the junk off, I like to leave the little tabs where the brake line couplings bolt on to the top, they make a nice place to secure your new lines. Keep the "tee" that has the brake light sender screwed into , too, from the bug. If you go to the guy I told you about, cut the rear horns off , too. He builds new ones that are integrated into the buggy's main bottom tubes (slick bottom). Be careful not to cut the pivot bolt ears.

The '73 has a balljoint front end ,too. This will get almost as many arquements as v-tread vs boggers, but I like k/p way better. Matter of opinion. Easier and cheaper (for me) to modify for good ride and its been more rugged in stock form. I've had both. Couldn't give me another balljoint front end for free, unless I had a buyer in mind.
You could sell it if you dont use it. There are many who like balljoint front ends.

Larry

i fell the same way you do larry. i gave a ball joint away and bought another kingpin.

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kenny ( AKA D.O.G. )

I Have a FAB Shop in western KY and will build you a custom frame or modify yours to suit your needs . I'm working on a couple for me and my dad now with 14-16" wheel travel . My number is 270-662-0088 Custom Iron Works Inc.
www.customironworksinc.com

what i got in yellow is what u need for the back

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I DO NOT FREE BASE COCAINE

this may help a little more

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I DO NOT FREE BASE COCAINE

Larry why not just go with a custom torsion if he cuts the hornes off for a slick bottom

He definately could, but I think he wants to use the torsion out of a donor car he already has.

Larry