i am running a stock trailing arms with a 3rib bus to car cvs and i keep breaking the bus cvs (splits the cages in two) any good reason why? thanks

Did you put a set of shorter axles in? They should be 15 5/8 for your set up.

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"YOU CAN MAKE THINGS HAPPEN, WATCH THINGS HAPPEN OR WONDER WHAT THE F$$K HAPPEND...WE'RE MAKING THINGS HAPPEN" The strong words of Captain Phil! Rest in peice!

they are stock bug axles not sure what the measure

Stock axles are 16 inces. thats why your breaking joints, the car joints are moving till the axle bottoms out on the stub but the bus has more clearence on the trans side and its pushing it till it breaks the cage. I had the same problem.

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"YOU CAN MAKE THINGS HAPPEN, WATCH THINGS HAPPEN OR WONDER WHAT THE F$$K HAPPEND...WE'RE MAKING THINGS HAPPEN" The strong words of Captain Phil! Rest in peice!

You need to lathe out the center of your stars in the cv's. Take them to a machine shop and get them done you just need to do the bus joints if you have car outters. They need machined down so you can get the clip on about 1/4 inch. I never had a problem or broke a cv after this. It will allow the ring to slide up in and stop the binding. I have heard of people shaving down the axle but then also breaking the axle so I wouldn't do that.

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2332cc Air Cooled Screaming Meanie. Predator Singleseat.

"Lets go get stupid"

Tie yer shoes Kyle so you don't trip.

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Bryan

sweet i work in a machine shop thanks this winter i plan on putting on 2x3s

Car axles are 16-1/4".
Bus trans is 1/2" wider so the ideal axle is 16"
Unfortunatley the only supplier of those was Transform, they are gone.
IMHO 15-5/8" are a bit short as they pull on the cages if you have a lot of suspension lift.
The 16-1/4" aftermarket axles with the long splines are working well for all of my customers......so far......

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Gary

Turbo VW Sand Racer
Polaris Ranger



"If you don't run into the Devil every once in awhile, you must be going in the same direction!"

Davis Motorsports FaceBook Page

I ran 15 5/8" sway away with stock trailing arm and 3-rib. used clips on both ends and blew car cv,took clips out and axle pulled out of cv. Switched to stock car axles and has worked fine. Jason

I've been cutting the CV's for years(Kyles like a sponge,he lurks around my garage and soaks up all na, just some of my knowledge lol) and it works good,very economical,Oh yea while you got them apart polish them and deburr the cages Also if you have a wheel-abrator(shotpeen) at work do the cages! Your CV's will last 2x's longer,just DONT Over angle them!

thanks for the compliment greg, anything i post here i pretty much learned from him

i try to soak up as much knowledge as i can. keeps me ahead of the competition know what i mean

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2332cc Air Cooled Screaming Meanie. Predator Singleseat.

"Lets go get stupid"

Bus trans is 1/2" wider so the ideal axle is 16"
Unfortunatley the only supplier of those was Transform, they are gone.[quote][/quote]

The name "transform" is gone, but the same people are now "quicksand". If they made it before, i'm sure they still do.

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Maybe you should chug on over to mamby pamby land....

Ahhh.........didn't know that, thanks.

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Gary

Turbo VW Sand Racer
Polaris Ranger



"If you don't run into the Devil every once in awhile, you must be going in the same direction!"

Davis Motorsports FaceBook Page

check the angle on your axles. i was having the same problem. then tried fixing it and now my axles wont go in but the angle should be, if i believe correctly with bus cv's they can handle 21 degrees of angle, and things can handle around 23 or 24 degrees.

In all honesty, you should never run over 18 degrees with a bus or a thing. Yes it will work for a while, but its still too much. The most important thing to check is that your axle has plunge or play left to right all the way through the travel. To set up a "long travel" car, and determine the axle legnth, you set the trailing arm half way through its cycle or get the stub-axle flange on the same plane as the trans flange and measure from the center of the "cup" on each, and subtract 1\4 inch and that is your axle legnth. Then you have to stop the travel before you run out of plunge both up and down. If you get that far, now make sure your wheel turns freely (with axle and cvs on) at each end of the travel cycle. if it does and your axle never gets tight, and you have german cv's, you should NEVER brake a cv joint again!

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Maybe you should chug on over to mamby pamby land....

You all mind if I use that picture of the machined star on another forum? A local builder shared that idea with me but I did not get a photo of the machined star......

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When I nod my head, hit it!

Nope I don't mind at all.

Kyle

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2332cc Air Cooled Screaming Meanie. Predator Singleseat.

"Lets go get stupid"

Thanks I may have to use this fix to get my travel and plunge right myself. I widened my torsion tube and spread the 5x5's out about 11". That puts the stub axle cv's farther out and down on a axle at 25 degrees increasing my travel from 15.25 to 23.50. Now I am working the tranny to find my sweet spot to minimize axle plunge.

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When I nod my head, hit it!