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PostPosted: Fri Aug 15, 2008 8:14 pm 
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OK Fellas,

I am looking for some advice.... I am going to build/buy a new engine this winter and I was wondering what your thoughts are on the best size engine to build. I currently have an 1835 with a 3 rib trans and I run 31inch tires.

It is my understanding that engine size is a balance between performance and reliability. I am more interested in reliability than performance. The 1835 has been very reliable but I could use some more power.

Is a 1915 worth building or should I just go to a 2180? What are your opinions?

Thanks,
Dan

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 15, 2008 9:11 pm 
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I ran a 2077 for a couple of years with real good luck. I would say it had exelent torqe and reliability. Thats when I saw the suby and went to the otherside.

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 16, 2008 5:36 am 
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I would love to go Suby.... but the cost is just too much for my budget.

If I go Suby I will need to spend a lot more money on the buggy beyond the engine.

Suby Engine $4000 - $5000
New Trans $1500 - $2000
930 CV & Axles $ 500 - $ 600

At the end of the day, I going to spend $7000 - $10,000 to upgrade to a Suby.

My goal is to upgrade in the future but it will take me a few years to slowly upgrade the rest of the buggy.

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 16, 2008 8:22 am 
8)


Last edited by bruce 1 on Wed Sep 03, 2008 9:55 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 16, 2008 9:14 am 
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MickeyMouse wrote:
I would love to go Suby.... but the cost is just too much for my budget.

If I go Suby I will need to spend a lot more money on the buggy beyond the engine.

Suby Engine $4000 - $5000
New Trans $1500 - $2000
930 CV & Axles $ 500 - $ 600

At the end of the day, I going to spend $7000 - $10,000 to upgrade to a Suby.

My goal is to upgrade in the future but it will take me a few years to slowly upgrade the rest of the buggy.


You can buy a low milage JDM Subie motor for less than a $1000.00. Then go to the local bone yard for the ECU and harness for around a 100. You be into a Subie for around 3 grand. On the flip side if your going to build a VW motor
go with a 2332. You allready in there. I woulkd advise "H" beam rods and good parts. You will have a fair amount of case clearencing if your using a stock case. Or you could go with a pentop alyuminum case and have zero to very little to clearence and have the extra strength. You will have have the cylinder spickets cut to fit the new 94MM cylinders. Also the cam we need to be clearenced. Gary at Davis racing can send you one allready done. The bottom line is you will have abour the same amount in either motor.

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 16, 2008 1:39 pm 
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i ran a 2332 with a car transmission and never broke it. just stay off the clutch.

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 16, 2008 8:24 pm 
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Kyle wrote:
i ran a 2332 with a car transmission and never broke it. just stay off the clutch.


2332 IS AFFORDABLE BUT I WOULD RUN A 5 OR 6 RIB

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 16, 2008 9:56 pm 
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After doing some more research, I am leaning toward a 2110. The 90.5 x 82 should have enough power and still maintain reliability. Hopefully, I will not blow out my 3 rib trans with the 2110.

Any thoughts on the a 2110..

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 16, 2008 10:27 pm 
just be easy on it. You should be fine. That is one good looking buggy you have.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 17, 2008 12:12 pm 
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For the same amount of money you can build a 2276.if you don't want to bore the case for 94 cylinders you can have the cylinders turned down to fit the 90.5 hole.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 17, 2008 12:55 pm 
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I have thought about the 2276 but I was concerned about the 94 bore running hot. From what I have read ( I say this because I have no actual experience building a vw motor) the 90.5 will run much cooler.

Is there a big difference between a 2110 and 2276? Another thing to consider is my stock 3 rib trans?

What would you guys do if you only had a few grand to put into a motor?

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 17, 2008 7:50 pm 
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The old myth of 94,s running hot is a bunch of bull.I run my personal buggy motor at 11 to 1 compression and have never had overheating problems.The bigger bore will make a significant power differance because of the the increase in cubic inches AND it allows the heads to flow better by unshrouding the valves.Also if you have a few thousand to spend on an engine you should be able to build a decent 2276 for $3500 or so and then spend what is left on a better trans.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 17, 2008 10:22 pm 
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What about heads :?: 3500 don't go far . If you go with a chromly crank and not some welded up stuff ,H beam rods a good set of heads nice set of rockers man the list goes on an on


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 17, 2008 10:29 pm 
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chromoly 4340 china cranks for 260.00, chromoly 5.7 chevy h-beam rods 200.00, and set of cb 044 800.00, alum supercase (if you need a case) 500.00. then rockers, pushrods, bearings, cam, oiling system (dry sump or full flow), carbs DUAL 44's 1000.00. I am pretty sure for 3500.00 i could build one bad ass 2332 it just depends on what you are reusing from the old motor.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 19, 2008 9:38 am 
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1915! with the 3 rib it is a ROCKET!!!! im runnin that set up now with a 102" wheel base and i can stand it straight up. my old 1835 wouldnt do it. the 3 rib will handle the 1915 well, run a 2 barrel progressive and if the tires hook you can shoot right up a hill, but at the same time have a very nice trail ride. just my 2 cents :] haha


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 19, 2008 4:36 pm 
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Hey Frankenbuggy,

What size tires do you run?

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 20, 2008 12:17 am 
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Hello
You can build a 2332 Out of a Scat Engine kit for around $1000. This is a very dependable motor. I ran one for many years. I have build lots of this Scat engine kit with great success. They contain everything need to build the engine other then the following parts. Case(block), Heads, Carbs, Dist.,Alt., Flywheel, Crank pulley and the tins most of which you will use off your old motor.

Mike D.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 24, 2008 5:02 am 
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i run a 2180 with a 3 rib and 35" boggers and the motor was built in 92 and only thing i have ever done is ring it one time and i have only broke the trans 1 time in 3 years

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 24, 2008 10:30 am 
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if you were to go suby, ask steve on here about it.. I think he only had a couple hundred dollars in his swap. if you do it right you definately can do it cheap. Steve had two high mileage cars and scrapped them after pulling the motors i believe and made more fromcscrapping than he paid for the cars. Then it's just buyign an adaptor plate and the other doo dads....


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 24, 2008 12:30 pm 
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I really appreciate all of the advise….

Since I have a 2 yr old, a 5 yr old and an 8 wk old, I do not really have the time to convert to a Suby unless I bought everything turnkey.. BIG $$$$$.. I hope to someday go with a Suby but that will not happen for several years.

As for my air cooled motor, I hope to keep everything from my current engine except the long block. I will most likely buy a longblock and keep the swap fast and easy.

After reading the posts, I think I going to stay around 2110 or 2180. Although it is only a few more bucks to go bigger, I really do not want to blow out my trans and not be able to ride at all.

As always, thanks for the guidance and I look forward to meeting some of you at Wilborn

Dan

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 24, 2008 8:12 pm 
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MickeyMouse wrote:
I would love to go Suby.... but the cost is just too much for my budget.

If I go Suby I will need to spend a lot more money on the buggy beyond the engine.

Suby Engine $4000 - $5000
New Trans $1500 - $2000
930 CV & Axles $ 500 - $ 600

At the end of the day, I going to spend $7000 - $10,000 to upgrade to a Suby.

My goal is to upgrade in the future but it will take me a few years to slowly upgrade the rest of the buggy.

I did not spend anywhere near that!!
Bought suby legacy for 150 running car,

Pulled motor, rad, converter,wire harness, ecu

Then scrapped car and got 174 for it

Bought civic racing rad for 80 bucs on ebay

Adapter and goose necks from outfront motorsports for 700

Homade exhaust cost about 100 bucs in parts

NOT TOO BAD!!

Bought a second car for 300 and did the same but got 380 for it in scrap.

Then sold the alum wheels and cats off both cars and got 400 for them.

Alot cheaper than you thought huh?

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 25, 2008 12:09 am 
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MY BUDY HADE GOD LUCK WITH HIS 2180 I THINK IT HAD A VZ ,15/8 HEADER AND A 40 CARB,81/2 TO1 COMP.

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