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 Post subject: My First Weakest Link
PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2008 11:58 am 
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Coming up out of creek and bent a tie rod. Didn't hit it very hard either. What's the best/cheapest way to strengthen these up? Will prolly try to put a rack on it this winter.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2008 1:00 pm 
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wield a piece of small angle over the top of it

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2008 2:00 pm 
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hah the absolute EASIEST way is to goto home depot or lowes and buy a 6 foot piece of galvanized 3/4 water line. (take it with ya and see pretty sure it was 3/4) cut it the length of your tierod and it will slide right in. you will break a box before you bend one i used to do this on my old rail. matter fact i think i got a pic somewheres.

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Last edited by Kyle on Mon Aug 11, 2008 2:05 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2008 2:02 pm 
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;)

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2008 4:11 pm 
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Thanks guys!!!

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2008 6:30 pm 
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I have welded angle to the tie rod before, but did like the way it looks. I cut a peice of square tubing that was tight to the tie rod, slid it over and welded it on the ends. I been runnin that way for 5 years with no troubles.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2008 6:41 pm 
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wildcatoffroad9606 wrote:
I have welded angle to the tie rod before, but did like the way it looks. I cut a peice of square tubing that was tight to the tie rod, slid it over and welded it on the ends. I been runnin that way for 5 years with no troubles.

Woody

Thats how i do mine but I also drill holes in the tubing and plug weld them to the tie rod.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2008 7:17 pm 
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Not to sound like a smart a$$. But do you know what they mean by plug weld. I told someone that one time and they welded the end right-up and then welded the tie-rod to that. It broke within an hour of riding he blamed me. :lol: :lol:


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2008 7:21 pm 
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ncbuggy wrote:
Not to sound like a smart a$$. But do you know what they mean by plug weld. I told someone that one time and they welded the end right-up and then welded the tie-rod to that. It broke within an hour of riding he blamed me. :lol: :lol:

Thats funny!

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2008 9:59 pm 
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Buy some Aluminum hex tubing from your local race car shop and the ends will already be drilled and tapped depending in how long you need them, and put 3/4" chromoly heim joints on the ends, you will be using 5/8", grade 8 bolts on the heim joints, and to adjust them, the hex is drilled and tapped on each end to work like a turnbuckle and then use jam nuts to tighten the joints....it is bulletproof! It is the same stuff they use on dirt track late model car front lower strut arms, if it can handle a 2300 lb. car going 80-90 MPH around a curve hitting all of those bumps and not bend or break, it must be very tough, I had no problems with mine and still using them 4 yrs later. It should cost you around $60, but it will be the best money spend on steering parts, you can use them on your current box for now and then when you put on your new rack, just change out the hex tubing for different length and take your joints off of them and put them on the new tubing.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2008 10:03 pm 
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Baddvw wrote:
Buy some Aluminum hex tubing from your local race car shop and the ends will already be drilled and tapped depending in how long you need them, and put 3/4" chromoly heim joints on the ends, you will be using 5/8", grade 8 bolts on the heim joints, and to adjust them, the hex is drilled and tapped on each end to work like a turnbuckle and then use jam nuts to tighten the joints....it is bulletproof! It is the same stuff they use on dirt track late model car front lower strut arms, if it can handle a 2300 lb. car going 80-90 MPH around a curve hitting all of those bumps and not bend or break, it must be very tough, I had no problems with mine and still using them 4 yrs later. It should cost you around $60, but it will be the best money spend on steering parts, you can use them on your current box for now and then when you put on your new rack, just change out the hex tubing for different length and take your joints off of them and put them on the new tubing.


or 5 bucks for a piece of pipe at the local hardware store. both will do fine but chads will look alot better

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 21, 2008 6:11 pm 
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quick FREE fix you know the litle sway bars on the stock front ends that everyone removes and throws away take that bar cut it to length remove one tie rod end and it will slip right into your tierod reinstall the tie rod end and it will never bend again


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 29, 2008 2:40 am 
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I run stock tie rods. They do bend.. I just bent the crap out of then jumping my bug last weekend. (big air, very cool) After they bend I go in the woods, find a branch, bend them back. Now I'm back on the trail with no broken steering boxes.

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