I have a dial indicator that im using to find my deck height,which is thousands.How do i turn thousands into CC's so i can figure out my compression ratio.With no shims,my piston pops out of the jug 0.155 thousands and i beleive i have around 0.120 thousands shim.So that would be 0.035 thousands deck height,but all the calculaters need to have CC's to calculate.Any help would be greatly appreciated,this is my first build by myself and i would like to get it right and make it scream.

well if your piston sticks out of the cyl. at TDC than you need shims on the back side of the cyl. and if you only add .120
and you still have .035 sticking out then your piston will hit your head. i could figure your c/r if i knew your bore,stroke,and what heads you have!

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Every man loves a set of TWINS especially sitting on a dragster

I put the shim behind the jug and the piston does not stick out past the jug.I have a 2276,94's and 82 stroke with 55 cc heads.I dont know exacly what size shims i have,they came with the motor,but i rechecked and it lokks like i have roughly about 15 to 20 thousands deck height.I am going to get a dial caliper in the morning to check what size shim i actually have.I now beleive they 0.160.What is the easiest way to measure deck height?

go here http://davisracing.com/engine%20calculator.htm and input all your data and you should get 10.7 like i did using .020 deck higth

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Every man loves a set of TWINS especially sitting on a dragster

Take a 5 or 6 inch piece of 3/16 or thicker flat bar (so that it doesnt flex), drill a hole in each end so that it will go over two engine studs that are diagonally across from each other on one cylinder. Make sure there is nothing jagged on the flat bar (like from drilling) that could scratch the top edge of the cylinder. Run some nuts down on the studs, about 10 or 12 ft lbs or so, to secure the cylinder. You will need some spacers on top of the flat bar that will slide down over the studs because the studs aren't threaded down far enough. Get you piston on TDC, measure the distance from top of piston to bottom of flat bar. I usually just set the base of my dial calipers on top of the flat bar, slide them open until the slide touches the piston, see what it reads, then deduct the thickness of the flat bar. I'm sure there are better, more accurate ways, but thats a pretty cheap way that works.

Larry

Well i figure i will have right around 10.3 or 10.7 CR.I should'nt have to run race fuel should i,or can i run half and half.

You could get by with half and half.

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Buy the best and cry once.

The motor that i have i bought in pieces and it only had 3 barrel shims with it and they are i believe the .180 ones.I just looked them up for a price and they are ridiculus for 4 of them,$53.I only need 1.All the other sizes are about $10,what a rippoff.Would anyone happen to have 1 .180 shim laying around they would sale me.I will give $10 for 1.

Or could i put 3 .060 together or would that cause a leak?I dont want to sound cheap,but damn $53 for one shim is not settling with me real good.What do you all think?

I have had more than 1 barrel shim on an engine... I put together an 1835 and used 2 metal shims and the paper gasket that came with a kit I had and used the avation gasket sealer(the messy blackish/brown) stuff in between each piece and it never leaked. Goop it up good and you should be good to go. Thanks Dave T Oh I will look in the pole barn for some shims.

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RAJAY + SAND = FUN!!! Can we put a turbo on that??*** Hey look in here for more junk.*** http://s119.photobucket.com/albums/o157 ... ndoffroad/

The paper gasket that comes with the kit is for stock sized cylinders.
Won't fit on 92s unless you cut them.

I personally would buy the correct shims rather than stacking 3-4 of the cheap ones.
Only 2 chances to leak with those, 4 with the stacked setup.

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Gary

Turbo VW Sand Racer
Polaris Ranger



"If you don't run into the Devil every once in awhile, you must be going in the same direction!"

Davis Motorsports FaceBook Page

Call RIMCO. They should sell you one shim.

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Buy the best and cry once.

That sounds great.Thanks for all the help guys.

Another question,i need some tips on setting up and cutting pushrods.

on the race fuel..... i have 10:1 and run 93 no problems....

Well i CC'ed my heads and came up with 45cc's,so with 20 to 25 thousands deck height i will have around 11.3 to 11.7 CR.So what kind of fuel do you guys think i should run with that. Also what you guys think about the pushrod question?

you will have to run race fuel. You may be able to mix it a little?

For rocker arm geometry:

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=167378

If you have .025" deck and 45cc you have more than 11.3-11.7.
It's 12.5.
To much IMHO for a woods car.

That .025 deck is way too tight.
You risk hitting the head with the piston as things heat up.
Not to mention a tight exhaust valve clearance.

I'd run a minimum of .050" and check the valve clearance with clay.

2276 with .050" deck and 45cc is 11.6 compression.

Still more than I'd run in the woods........

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Gary

Turbo VW Sand Racer
Polaris Ranger



"If you don't run into the Devil every once in awhile, you must be going in the same direction!"

Davis Motorsports FaceBook Page

I agree for a trail rider buggy that is too much compression because its overkill and uneccesary.
BUT,I believe ol' Buckmaster will be climbin' a little though. He IS from KY originally!!
A lot of us run 13:1 or better with no problems.
Its all in what you wanna do when you get to the woods.
Pump it up, Bucky !!

Larry

Thanks for the vote of confidence larry and i will be tearing some roots up for sure,It is in my blood.Eventually i will be back in a 1 seater,i have only ridden a 2 seater a small handful of times,but i got a long way to go to catch up with some of the big boys.What if i put a 0.40 copper head gasket on with 0.25 deck height,i think the gasket will compress a little,so that should bring me back down to the 11. ????? range.Either way im coming to the hill climb and taking names,LOL

I think the 040" gasket is figured after it has compressed.
You'd be 11.1 with that.
I'd rock it all night long..............

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Gary

Turbo VW Sand Racer
Polaris Ranger



"If you don't run into the Devil every once in awhile, you must be going in the same direction!"

Davis Motorsports FaceBook Page

Hey Gary i m trying to understand the geometry post's on samba,but i will be running 1.4's with a engle 110.The motor i have was previusly built and running,but the guy ran regular fuel and burnt a hole in the piston.I have the pushrods that came with the motor,if i loosen the adjuster almost all the way,keeping a few threads and then adjust it down until it touches the pushrod,and then open the valve to full lift,the adjuster should be parallel to the valve.Or could i put all them in on 1 side and adjust them to theproper clearence,what should i look for to be able to tell if they are the correct size.By the way Clearence should be around 3 to 6 thousands,right?????

Not supposed to use 1.4 and a 110.
Every catalog that lists the 110 say stock or 1.25 rockers only.

If your adjuster is at the valve you don't have 1.4s.
Good 1.25 and 1.4s have the adjusters on the pushrod end.

Call me, I'll be here till 6 EST.
765-763-7709

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Gary

Turbo VW Sand Racer
Polaris Ranger



"If you don't run into the Devil every once in awhile, you must be going in the same direction!"

Davis Motorsports FaceBook Page

The burnt hole could have been too lean? I run 1.4s with a 110 it works great for me.

Well i have decided to go with it.I only have 2 weeks to get-er-done.Gary thanks for talking me through the geometry,but i might still need a few tips once i get going.