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PostPosted: Mon Mar 24, 2008 10:36 am 
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Joined: Fri Mar 16, 2007 7:50 pm
Posts: 43
Location: Wild Wonderful WV, near Huntington
I posted this message the first time Saturday, March 22 and got 3-4 helpful replies but the whole thread mysteriously disappeared yesterday.

To you guys who replied Saturday and Sunday.

Thanks for the prompt replies.

I read the two other forums, STF and TheSamba, but I
like this one because we have a WoodsBuggy.

When my son had the arms off I remember him saying he
did polish one or two of the arms where they fit into
the beam and greased them up good. The passenger side
seems stickier than the drivers side so it's possible
something could be bent.

The PO of the buggy was the type better fitted for an
ATV/four wheeler or some other kind of off road ride
that he could jump on, turn the key, and go without
even checking the oil.

When we were told the buggy was for sale and we went
to look at it the guy said the starter was bad and he
gave it to another guy to have it rebuilt but
eventually the starter disappeared. We couldn't start
or even crank the engine but since this wasn't my
first rodeo I had my son turn the engine over with the
belt. It would turn just short of 360*. Since it had
been sitting out in the weather a couple mo uncovered
and having not been started I was hoping maybe rain
water had stuck a valve open only allowing us to turn
it each way until the piston hit the valve. Ha,
wishful thinking on my part! The guy said the engine
was a 2275, even though I questioned his mechanical
knowledge, at this point I had no reason to question
his honesty.

To make a long story a little shorter, we bought the
buggy, brought it home and done a few simple tests to
rule out a stuck valve. It wasn't a valve, it was a
broke rod. Good news though is the engine has
practically new 044 heads, 94 jugs (1 damaged), an 84
crank (1 rod journal will polish), a Webber 2bbl and
an Engle 120 cam. The buggy has four white spoke
wheels (5"&12"), an aluminum gas tank, a new cutting
brake and a three-rib transmission.

We're satisfied even though the PO may have known the
rod was broke! I don't think he did...

Sorry about the long post, guess I just needed to talk
buggies today...

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 24, 2008 10:57 am 
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It seems that half of buggying is attitude..You are on the right track. I know next to nothing about VW but lots of guys on this site are very knowledgeable and will help you. Good Luck,,, :wink:

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 25, 2008 8:07 pm 
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Sounds like you got a bunch of great parts. Keep us informed.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 26, 2008 10:28 am 
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Good luck on the rebuild. BTW the 94mm pistons and 84mm crank give you a 2332 motor. So you got more engine than you paid for lol!

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 28, 2008 8:53 am 
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Joined: Fri Mar 16, 2007 7:50 pm
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Location: Wild Wonderful WV, near Huntington
I realize this isn't the best option but does anyone have a slightly used 94 jug and piston they'd let go for nearly nothing? Of course we'd make sure all four pistons weigh the same

I don't expect anyone to break up a set but maybe someone has broke one like us.

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Last edited by WvDave on Fri Mar 28, 2008 9:32 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 28, 2008 9:11 am 
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Location: Wild Wonderful WV, near Huntington
Ody,
My bad, it's an 82 crank

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 28, 2008 9:38 am 
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Ok on the crank, aircooled.net will sell you a pistion and cylinder. I have some spare new cylinders if you can find a piston.
216-695-0733

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 28, 2008 12:27 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 16, 2007 7:50 pm
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Location: Wild Wonderful WV, near Huntington
Ody,
I think the cylinder is salvageable but a big chunk of the piston skirt was broke away when the rod broke. I was almost tempted to cut the other side of the broken piston down to match the broke side then make the other three the same. Some race engine builders, not necessarily bug engines, do cut the skirts off to lighten the reciprocating weight. I know this could greatly reduce engine life.

When that rod broke it some how knocked a lifter out, to the inside, and broke the side off the lifter bore. Could the case be repaired? The rod didn't knock a hole in the case.

I have dealt with John at aircooled.net but I didn't know he'd sell one C&P.

Would this better fit the engine board?

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 04, 2008 11:07 am 
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Case can be repaired. This is something to be left to a very experienced person. I definatly would not remove the piston skirts as they are what sets the tollerence netween the piston and cylinder. The pistons will be so lose that they will probalbly not last a season, rings will ware very quickly and be extremly noisy.

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