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 Post subject: Micro stubs
PostPosted: Fri Mar 14, 2008 9:55 am 
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I've ask this question on some of the (Desert) buggy forums before and never got a straight answer so I'll try it here. Do Micro stub type bearings hold up well? I know they are based on a S-10 type hub and bearing. As a Ford dealership mechanic for the last 25 years I have noticed that our hub and bearing assemblies of this type are sh*t. This is NOT a FORD vs Chevy Thing all Parts are sorced from whoever will make them cheapest. I ask this because I am looking at this from the point of wanting more rear wheel travel and I am maxed out now with 3X3 arms and 930 CV joints. I can't build a 10 foot wide buggy like they do out west. so micro stubs will allow about 3" longer axles without increasing track width. Sorry for the long post all help apppreciated.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 14, 2008 10:12 am 
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i don't know anythign about micro stubs, but remembered this post, this fella is making his own set and using half-ton chevy parts, he might be able to help you out?

http://forum.woodsbuggy.com/viewtopic.php?t=2544


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 14, 2008 1:43 pm 
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i just built a set of micro-stub arms for my new car. i got the empi "race-trim" micro-stub kit. i havent ran the car yet, but from what i can tell, they are stout. i know that a couple other guys i race with are going to run them this year as well, so i'll be able to update you later.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 14, 2008 11:46 pm 
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Instead of microstubs, I inverted the wheels, fabricated the trailing arms to 3x11 and run 26" 930 axles. This setup will do 20"s of wheel travel. I like your idea on the microstubs. Keep us posted. Hope this helps.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 15, 2008 2:08 am 
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Im running Gear-One micro stubs. Well actually i will be when its done..


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 15, 2008 11:35 am 
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Thanks for the input guys I would like to get away from stock type bearing housings because I get about one season on a set of axle bearings no dirt or water intrusion just bearings are destroyed. The gear one microstubs are the ones Kar-Tec sells I think and the ones I am looking at. The guy at Kar-Tec told me they are NOT based on any OEM bearing and hub and is manufactured specifically for this application.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 15, 2008 2:04 pm 
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[quote='aug4you']The guy at Kar-Tec told me they are NOT based on any OEM bearing and hub and is manufactured specifically for this application.[/quote]

That means it will cost more usually and parts are harder to find.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 29, 2008 6:21 pm 
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I'm in the process of using chevy half ton front hubs, for my micro stubs. Im not done yet, everything is working out good. I made trailing arms to resemble the ones from Dan's performance. but i used 1 1/4 inch by 156 wall DOM tubing and i took the stock half ton front chevy axle and i cut the CV apart and i took the stub and i machined it down and drilled and tapped it for a bus CV. i used the stock roader from the chevy truck with wild wood calipers. then i had to take my rims, cut the center out, turn the rims around and made a new center with six lug chevy pattern, heck, i even cut some cool looking flames in the center then i welded it back in the rim, the wheel is going to end up being in the stock place by 4 inches back. the axles im using are 21 3/8 long, actually its all falling into place real nice. i do have my own machine shop, so i do all of my own fabricating and it is alot of work. but it will be worth it, i hope.


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 29, 2008 7:56 pm 
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[quote='afterburnt']I'm in the process of using chevy half ton front hubs, for my micro stubs. Im not done yet, everything is working out good. I made trailing arms to resemble the ones from Dan's performance. but i used 1 1/4 inch by 156 wall DOM tubing and i took the stock half ton front chevy axle and i cut the CV apart and i took the stub and i machined it down and drilled and tapped it for a bus CV. i used the stock roader from the chevy truck with wild wood calipers. then i had to take my

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 03, 2008 8:01 pm 
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Here's some pictures of what I have so far. I'm waiting on my axles, they should be here anyday. Once I get my axles, I'll be able to set my up and down travel, put my straps, bump stops and shocks on. Wednesday, I went and dropped off my rims at the powder coaters, I'm getting them powder coated chrome. That should take another week. Hopefully I'll get it together soon.
Image
Image
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Image


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 03, 2008 8:30 pm 
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Location: Harmony Pa Wellsville rocks!!
I like tat! nice fab work!! How much for set??

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 03, 2008 8:33 pm 
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That is an AWESOME job!! Please tell me what you used and how you did it. I can see the GM 6bolt, is it out of the front of a halfton?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 03, 2008 9:02 pm 
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Now that is interesting. One thing for sure, you'll have plenty of brake and it looks real heavy duty. Cool stuff. Do your self a favor, do a double shear on that outboard pivot. It's real easy to do.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 03, 2008 9:18 pm 
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What is that rusty piece of junk in the edge of the first pic?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 03, 2008 9:51 pm 
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afterburnt i see you running fox air shocks. have you rode with them yet? how well do they work>

sorry for the off topic.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 03, 2008 10:04 pm 
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Cool stuff,,I love the fabbing work you have done. Keep the updates coming. 8)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 04, 2008 12:09 am 
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Kyle: They'e not "air" what your looking at is filled with nitrogen. Afterburnt diggs the way they ride(with ejaculation all over) heard him say it over and over again.
Wreckincars no matter what rusted junk I have you know I I'll still ride circles around you and when you try to keep up and break I'll still tow you back :flip off:

Dave nice pics.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 04, 2008 12:58 am 
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heh yea i know they have nitrogen in them but they are called air shocks from fox.

i was thinking of going this route on my buggy but some people keep telling me it won't work. so just trying to find someone that is running them

are they the 2.0 or 2.5's?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 04, 2008 10:06 am 
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that set-up looks great! i'm also putting a set of micro-stubs on my new race car.(but i just got the kit and made the arms) the wheels look cool too! I'll post some pics of mine when i get some time. What kind of wheel travel are you getting? what size are those arms? i'm guessing you used 3x3 cause the legnth of your axle.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 04, 2008 5:57 pm 
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as far as the fox nitrogen shocks go, i ran them with the stock arms and i positioned the shocks right over the center line of the axle and it was tipped 20 degrees and it worked great, i loved it, when i jumped, the landings were so smooth. but now with my new arms being 4x4, i have to move the shock center 4 inches in front of the axle because i was told that the shock is really meant to be straight up and down, so im kinda worried with the extra four inches on the trailing arm, it might not be enough to hold up the buggy, i dont know, if its not enough to hold the buggy up, i was looking at some four inch round air bags just to help out a little. if i had to buy another set of shocks, i would buy the bigger ones, the 2.5 when i was running on stock arms i was putting 400 pounds of pressure in them, they max out at 500
real soon, i will be cutting up another set of stub axles out of the chevy truck axles. when i do this, i will take pictures as i do it, and explain what im doing, the stubs are nitrated (case hardend) the only way to cut through the hardness is with ceramic inserts, carbide would not even cut through the hardness. but once you get through the hardness you are able to use high speed drills and taps.
i called on my axles today and they are not in yet, pat said maybe Wednesday, with out my axles i wont be able to set up my shocks and straps so i dont know how much travel i will be getting with this new set up, my main concern is not so much the travel but stronger bearings


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