DVS1, I got them at www.raceroffroad.com the guys name is doug and he goes by KingGlamis on glamisdunes.com . You would need to be a member of glamisdunes.com to get the $109 each price. Membership is free you just need to register. I don't know if he checks, I was already a member. Shipping was about $20 from Arizona to Ohio. Kragen Auto Parts / Parts America had them and everyone caught onto it, then they quit selling them. They have gotten good reviews with no problems yet. We hooked one up to a battery for fun and it shines bright and far! They are 35 watt in a euro driving beam pattern. That pattern gives you a pretty wide angle of light. Basically between a flood and a spot pattern. The quality seems good for the price. Hella hallogens weren't much cheaper and they didn't have the bright white, almost blue light.

FORTDEGNORTH-THINK THATS A GREAT IDEA!! ALWAYS LIKED BLACK FRAMES AND WITH THE PANELS BRUSHED ---CANT WAIT 2 SEE DONE AND IS FALL AS COLUMBUS CANT WAIT 2 MOVE!! EVER NEED ANY HELP YOUR CLOSE ENOUGH LET ME KNOW --ANYTIME!!----AND FOR EVERYBODY ELSE THAT HELPED ME WITH SITE THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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LIFE IS TO SHORT! FLIP IT WHILE YOU CAN!!

I would venture to say that your buggy is the best looking one I have ever seen. ( No offense to the rest of you guys). Everything on it looks badass. You said that you made your own beam and I was thinking of doing the same. I am just wondering what you used for bushings and what you did for through rods.

The end plates are laser cut pieces from Oregon Motorsports. I would have to check on the tube size. There is a common size that fits the end plates and the inside diameter fits a common bugpack or empi bushing. The through rods right now are just threaded rod and I have heard that they work fine but I will likely thread the end of some round bar. I made up a generic jig out of angle iron to weld everything together. If you square up the angle and weld it to a table with the point down you end up with a "v" that you can lay the tubes in and then slide the end plates over the ends and weld it. The angle just keeps the tube in line. Tweeds and Oregon Motorsports could help with the dimensions and parts. My beam is 8" wider and it matches the 4x5 rear arms pretty well. The front arms are Tweed's and are 4" longer and 1.75" wider.

Sounds pretty easy. I was looking at the through rods and thought I could make my own for less than the 50 bucks they go for. I also think I can make my own bushings out of some delrin stuff I have and a laithe but I might just go ahead and order them. Thanks for the information and once again that thing looks awesome.

Thanks, if you have delrin I would use it. I used delrin for my rear trailing arm pivots and the stuff is tuff. I have read it doesn't squeak either.

That is a sweet ride can't wait to see it finished IT'S COOL TO SEE THAT MUCH PRIDE IN A PROJECT. RIDE IT HARD YOU WON'T BE ABLE TO BREAK IT .IF YOU DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME IT WILL BE THE LAST TIME.

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(LIVE EVERY DAY LIKE IT IS YOUR LAST) AND AS I TELL MY 10 YEAR OLD BOY ANYTHING BROKEN CAN BE FIXED

it looks like DVS1 sorta

[quote='rockrockets1']it looks like DVS1 sorta[/quote]


I was thinking the same thing. Thats one nice ride!

Ya DVS1 has a stalker frame which is very similar to what this is. With the aluminum body panels they do look similar. Thanks for the compliments. I have collected ideas for the last couple years and just put them all together for one build. I borrowed from a lot of people, hope they don't mind. I really hope I can keep at it and get it powder coated within the next 6 weeks or so. Spring an summer really screw me up with the landscape business. Once I'm distracted for a couple months I'm done until winter. I would love to thrash on this summer.