I need opinions on dry sumping the engine, is there any advantages? or disadvantages? I am thinking about buying the pump, hoses and a tank, will this do me any better? Thanks for you inputs.

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"Loud pipes saves lives"

[quote='Baddvw']I need opinions on dry sumping the engine, is there any advantages? or disadvantages? I am thinking about buying the pump, hoses and a tank, will this do me any better? Thanks for you inputs.[/quote]

Best thing you can do to your off road engine.
Never starve the pump for oil, maintains good oil pressure at almost any angle.
We DS almost every engine we build that is for severe off road use.
Couple drawbacks is the hoses, easy to snag if you don't route them cor

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Gary

Turbo VW Sand Racer
Polaris Ranger



"If you don't run into the Devil every once in awhile, you must be going in the same direction!"

Davis Motorsports FaceBook Page

Or spend the $300 for a spare engine. Pay me now or pay me later.

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If your clutch ain't slippin,, you probably got it adjusted right!!!!!

So....can you put some kind of valve on the bottom of the tank to turn off the oil flow to the engine when parking the buggy? I know that it is a recipe for disaster by forgetting to turn on the valve when starting the engine. What brand system is the best for this type of setup?

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"Loud pipes saves lives"

Do you run straight cut cam gears?

nope, but am getting one soon when I get my engine rebuilt.

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"Loud pipes saves lives"

I use and sell CBs system.

The valve deal is a bit scary..........

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Gary

Turbo VW Sand Racer
Polaris Ranger



"If you don't run into the Devil every once in awhile, you must be going in the same direction!"

Davis Motorsports FaceBook Page

DO NOT put a valve on it. The reason I have the Buggy I bought recently is because the Previous owner forgot to open it on the motor and took out the main bearings. Heres the funny part this is the second motor he did it to. If you decide to put a valve in the supply line use a 1 PSI poppet check valve. or a mirco switch on the ball valve so that it breaks when it is not open to kill the motor.

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Water cooled Dry Sumped Subaru Powered Turbo Charged Fuel Injected 2500CC Tank. Oh Rah! He who dies with the most Toys not only wins, He also wears them out!

Do you run straight cut cam gears? If not you need too. There are 2 types of pumps to consider. 1st is a bug pack pump. It is the best one for woods riding and it is a 2 stage pump. A dry sump means you do not use a deep sump. The main purposes of a dry sump are to get the air bubbles out of the oil, oil to the bearings all the time, and cooler oil. How it works: The pump empties out the engine oil, and pumps it back to your sump tank, (so air can get out before going to the bearings), then back to the pump, then to your filter, to your cooler, then back to the case, and through out the bearings, then back to the tank, etc

[quote='Baddvw']So....can you put some kind of valve on the bottom of the tank to turn off the oil flow to the engine when parking the buggy? I know that it is a recipe for disaster by forgetting to turn on the valve when starting the engine. What brand system is the best for this type of setup?[/quote]

One thing is to mount the oil tank as low in the buggy as you can. It will not stop it all but it does help a little.

Is a Auto Craft pump(2-stage) a good pump to use for a dry sump system?

Auto craft is a good brand don't know if it is the best all them KYboys run them so Bruce 1 is the one to ask he has a new set up on his new buggy im sure he done his home work before building it

My 99 dollar CB Performance pump works great and it pumps plenty of oil to my bearings. My motor is 5 years old now.

What do you have to do to the engine case to make the dry-sump system work? Is there anything special that you have to buy? I looked at the Autocraft pumps, they are $575, they must be good ones for that price.

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"Loud pipes saves lives"

I am seriously thinking about the CB system, everything else that I have on the engine is CB Performance.

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"Loud pipes saves lives"

[quote='Baddvw']I am seriously thinking about the CB system, everything else that I have on the engine is CB Performance.[/quote]

CB is the schnitz for what we do.
Affordable too.

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Gary

Turbo VW Sand Racer
Polaris Ranger



"If you don't run into the Devil every once in awhile, you must be going in the same direction!"

Davis Motorsports FaceBook Page

The CB pump is good also. I was not saying it was not good. If I was building a motor and had the extra $150.00 for a bug pack pump I would go for it. If not I would go for the CB pump. My 2 seater has a CB pump on it, and I consider it my junk motor but I knew I still needed to put a dry sump on it to make it last. Dry sump is the only way to go if you want your motor to last. I do not sell either one but I would push the bug pack over anything else. The auto craft pump is a very good also but for the money I would use the bug pack.

I have some more info on all the different pumps but I will have to find it. Like flow rates and such.

I hope some of this helps.

[quote='Baddvw']What do you have to do to the engine case to make the dry-sump system work? Is there anything special that you have to buy? I looked at the Autocraft pumps, they are $575, they must be good ones for that price.[/quote]

You do not have to do anything special to the engine case. You will have to use a smaller diameter crank pulley because the pump sticks out so far. Other than that it's a pretty straightforward job.

here is more info on a dry sump.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewto ... ?p=2354127

Thanks very much on the info, I will be ordering a new system soon.

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"Loud pipes saves lives"