ive tried to stay on somewhat of a budget and not buy the same part over and over without upgrading...if I had more to spend I would beef more on suspension but.....if you ride in the woods your going to want a decent steering setup...I suggest h.d. off road rack (due to budget) with international inner tie rods and stock vw outers...I ran a cheap Monroe on front kingpin for a few years for like $ 25 each, last year went with kyb gas adjust, think they were 60-75 for the pair. rears are rancho 5000, not the best but good for the $, works good with the bags. I have shitty brakes, would def suggest Nissan sentra. best advice I can give you is, keep everything simple as possible. easier to fix and easier to get part if you break.

_________________
Hey,can you hand me those zip ties and that roll of duct tape?!

thanks for all the info! really helpful, i will go for 930s cv and airbags, for the trailing arms, i will have to buy them and add a bracket for the airbags? and for the torsion bar do i have to modify it like you?

so exactly what can i get at the junk yard for this buid? 4 disk braks with calipers and brake lines, the ecotec engine? thats all?


Thanks might take time but this project is gonna be done before the summer!

I completely agree on 930 being way better but everyone missed my point, they are not close to the same cost if you find some bus CV shafts used, yes if you buy new bus CVS then yes close to same cost, just trying to help him get it going with a cheap budget, ive picked up sets of bus shaft Assembly's used for 50 bucks before and you could drill out the type one stubs for type two bolt pattern, not really the same cost as all new 930 stuff witch correct me if I'm wrong can add up to 500 to 1000 bucks for good stubs, cv's, drive flanges, boots and shafts. If you got it in the budget hell yes get 930 but its not as big of a project to upgrade the cv's down the road, I'd make sure you got it in your budget for a good!!! trans and motor first!!!!

ok great, do you know any good build threads which shows everything i need and pictures of the build also, theres not alot of pieces but engine and trans/torsion i find that part complicated a bit.

to be honest the only part that currently scares me is installing that torsion, trailing arms, and engine

for the 930s ill the see price difference, but if its to expensive here i can make a trip to ohio and buy everything but its quite a big trip were talking 15 hrs. 30hrs round trip

thanks

i went to my buggy shop, he told me with my 5k budget i can only build with stock bettle parts and going cheap on everything, IRS stock trailing arms and drums . a 1600cc vw and he told me that my frame is made to put a bus trans.

so with a 5k budget i cant

-have a eco tec
-3x3 arms?
-6 rib

The prices here are overpriced compared to the usa, so this is why i am asking, and also if i got with used parts, is it possible with just 5k?

thanks guys! hope this wont break my bubble :/

I am no expert on this but these are some prices in Ohio that I know of. There over half your budget...
3x3 with 930 conversion $1000

Rear disc brake kit $300

6rib $700

Stock rear torsion $100,Custom rear torsion $250

Ecotech $600

Adapter $500


"Don't believe everything you read on the Internet."--Abraham Lincoln

Thanks maby its just here thats way over priced.

What size bolts are those in the kp


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

_________________
IF YA CAN'T RUN WITH IT....RUN FROM IT

How well do you know this guy at buggy shop, I'd beware of vw buggy shops some wanna sell you the junk to keep you coming back, some shops have good people and willing to help and others mainly shops that build and machine vw stuff hate the idea of other engines like Eco cause they don't get the work of building you a expensive underpowered motor that will have you always coming back to keep building up

he as been doing buisness for very long time, sold my dad a rail when he was younger and that was 30 years ago. he also told me that my frame is made to fit a bus tranny, he is very helpful and seems like a legit guy, but he told me right away with 5k forget about the 930 and 3x3 trailing arms,

ive spoken to some people and i could go with

2x3 arms,
bus cvs
1915vw
6rib

this can be a cheaper route?
and this might be a easier route for me also since i am not familiar with all this,

thanks

You were on a good path before I would still try for what you wanted, keep looking, for less than five k you could find a buggy with all the goodies or find someone to send you some good parts from down here.

And I would say a 3 rib for a 1915 if u go that route just my opinion, I ran my 1835 with a 3 and with a 6. Loved it with the three but hated it with the six, the six ribs are geared higher so there better for more HP and torque

Alright 3 rib it will be IF i go 1915 route, where do i start? what parts do i order first, whats worth ordering far away or used and what other things new?

thanks

Building a buggy from scratch is super expensive and a lot of work. You will spend 2X what you plan and it will take 3X longer than you think.

There are 100's of little items that will easily bust a $5K budget. (Shocks, Seat Belts, Nuts & Bolts, Wire and connectors, gauges, Lights, Steering Wheel, Hoses, Brake Lines, Paint, Skid Plates, tools, battery, bushing and bearings, radiator and fans, etc.. etc..)

_________________
Woodsbuggy forum is now on the Tapatalk Mobile app... (iPhone, iPad and Android devices)

3x3's wont cost you any more than 2x3
new bus cvs cost about the same as 930s
you can buy 2 eco's for the price of a 1915!!!!
6 ribs can be found for as low as $400 is your not in a hurry

old timer vw guys have a hard time accepting water cooled engines.

_________________
Maybe you should chug on over to mamby pamby land....

Yea i knew it would be more expensive but i thought i would have fun building it and learning new stuff. Il start at it, il just take my time and look for good deals.

Alright 3x3 then and 930 cvs, if i buy a regular 6rib will i have to change anything in the tranny like the clutch and pressure plate or its already good?

Thanks alot guys

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

Agreed

"Just pin it ! she'll go!"

A clutch and pressure plate are not inside the trans, they are in between the motor and trans inside the bell housing, the clutch and pp are bolted to the flywheel witch is bolted to the back of the crankshaft on the motor, the tranny has a shaft that slides inside of the clutch setup when you bolt the motor to the transmission. I recommend if your not sure how this works getting assistance when you assemble everything, its simple once you figure out how it works but there are small details you need to know when putting a clutch in or you will never get it mated to the trans. The clutch disc has to be centered as you bolt the pp to the flywheel so the trans shaft slides in easy. And yes you will need a aftermarket clutch and pp to handle more power than a stock 1600 motor there are threads on here debating what setup to run.

alright thanks! i will be having my friend who works in deisel truck repairs, he knows his stuff so he will be able to help me. and if i order the kenedy plate, it already comes with the right pressure plate? and flywheel? and then ill have to buy a clutch for in the 6 rib, how much is that worth? 200$?


i want to build something like this!!
https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=10 ... =2&theater

thank you very much

No the adapter come with adapter plate and flywheel. Pressure plate and clutch separate I run a stage 2 Kennedy pressure plate with my six rib and eco

Alright so the clutch and pressure plate is together? Thanks! Il start ordering parts when i come back from vacation in 1 week

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

that buggy in the video had well over 10k invested in it

_________________


I DO NOT FREE BASE COCAINE

yea must of, it is a nice buggy!

Realistically you need a roller with a 6 rib and a adapter plate (500) wiring harness and computer 400 and a motor

Sent from my DROID3 using Tapatalk 2

No clutch disc and pressure plate are usually separate to