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 Post subject: stroker clearance
PostPosted: Sat Jan 05, 2008 10:30 pm 
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I was just curious how much more it takes to get an 84mm crank to fit than an 82mm.This is my first stroker build. Ive got an after market aluminum case with 94's.I would like to get an idea about rod lengths also .I've got cb 5.400 in it now and i think they'll work ok for an 82mm. I may do this this next winter. thanks

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 05, 2008 11:38 pm 
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If you have a super case that 84 should drop in ok


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2008 8:25 am 
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It might require (more) cam clearancing depending on which rods you use. Trial assemble the case halves without sealer, hold all rods horizontal, rotate engine and look closely at everything closely.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2008 10:24 am 
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As Eric stated CLOSELY and from all angles that you can manage to look at it. Its a pain to pull one back down over a small area that is hitting some.

The Wild Kids

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2008 6:58 pm 
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[quote='The Wild Kids']As Eric stated CLOSELY and from all angles that you can manage to look at it. Its a pain to pull one back down over a small area that is hitting some.

The Wild Kids[/quote]

Yep, been there toooo many times! lol


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2008 12:18 am 
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If you have one of the "bubble top" HD aluminum cases, like sharpshooter said, you shouldn't have any trouble with either 82 or 84 for case clearencing. The 82 cranks usually are VW Rod Journal, while the 84 cranks usually are Chevy. Since the Chevy journal is smaller than a VW, an 84 stroke Chevy rod crank and an 82 VW rod crank are fairly similar in overall outer diameter. Like Eric said, test fit and double check everything. The info I've gotten from engine builders on rod length is, that the shorter the rod, the more the power band will be at the bottom of the RPM range. While the longer, the power will be higher up in the RPM range. The short rods on long stroke cranks may cause slightly more wear on the sides of the pistons from the harshness of the quick direction change, but the people I've spoken with said it's not a problem. If you allready have the VW journal 5.4 rods, and are reusing them, I would get an 82 VW journal crank. If you had to buy rods, I would get the 84 crank with 5.4 Chevy journal rods.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2008 1:17 am 
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i just put in an 84mm with 94mm pistons in a stock case. it fits but we had to clearance the crap outta it. also we had to clearance aka grind haha on the crank to clear the cam. the couterweights on the crank were to fat and hitting the cam.

also it was VW journal rods. all is running today wooohooo and very good!

2332's rule!


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2008 1:19 am 
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I hope you did not grind on the crank
that thing will be shakin like a dog poopin peach seeds


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2008 1:21 am 
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what will happen if u do :?:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2008 2:14 am 
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The Crank will be unbalanced inturn, will cause the mains to wear prematurely. In this situation the cam should be machined to clear the crank. The more balanced the motor the less wear and quicker the rev. Just think of holding two 5 gallon buckets one empty and one half full, then spinning as fast as you can and feel the wobble from not having equal amounts in the buckets. Thats basicall what happens in an unbalanced motor.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2008 2:19 am 
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well explained i c what u talking about that wouldn't be good


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2008 8:19 pm 
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prolly shoulda got it balanced but it ran damn good today at wellsville and didn't shake a lick. got me up scooby :) that thing is a rocket ship heh


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2008 8:24 pm 
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[quote='Kyle']prolly shoulda got it balanced but it ran damn good today at wellsville and didn't shake a lick. got me up scooby :) that thing is a rocket ship heh[/quote]

It does not have to shake to be wearing out your bearings. If you took a grinder to the crankshaft you are in for problems. I would take it back apart and send the crank out to have it checked and dynamically balanced.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 4:57 am 
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[quote='DVS1']The Crank will be unbalanced inturn, will cause the mains to wear prematurely. In this situation the cam should be machined to clear the crank. The more balanced the motor the less wear and quicker the rev. Just think of holding two 5 gallon buckets one empty and one half full, then spinning as fast as you can and feel the wobble from not having equal amounts in the buckets. Thats basicall what happens in an unbalanced motor.[/quote]

The crank was hitting the Lobe at


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 5:08 am 
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[quote='Roy'][quote='Kyle']prolly shoulda got it balanced but it ran damn good today at wellsville and didn't shake a lick. got me up scooby :) that thing is a rocket ship heh[/quote]

It does not have to shake to be wearing out your bearings. If you took a grinder to the crankshaft you are in for problems. I would take it back apart and send the crank out to have it checked and dynamically balanced.[/quote]

Oh I agree with ya Roy,but hes a young'n and


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 7:46 am 
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I had a crank's counterweight hit the peak lobe on a cam once too. It was a bugpack crank (I think it was 86 stroke). I did grind (very little) off of the crank and ran it for years in my street buggy. I took it apart and everything was fine..bearings, case, etc. I guess what I am saying is how much did you grind off? If it was just a little then hopefully you will be ok.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 10:38 am 
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it was very little. and yes mudd mutt told me to balance it and buy h beams and this and that and i bitched and said put it together haha. i can't help it damn't i been waiting 3 weeks to ride haha. but it ran great. and ima run the shit outta it until it goes the build one right. maybe 2498! woo :)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 11:55 am 
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Put a rev limiter on that puppy until you get a set of H Beam rods in it. :!:


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