I found a 1600 dual port motor, that is an A block. It only has about 1500 original miles on it. The problem is it has been sitting in this guys garage for 20-25 years now. I'm pretty sure it is froze up. My question is is it worth 100 dollars. It is a complete engine carb and all. I have a b block 1500 single port now that everyone said was not strong enough to build very big at all. I am wanting to build a 1915 or possibly a stroker.

It all depends if the motor has been stored in a wet or dry place. If it is froze up I would move on unless you want to have the crank reground and the case possiabley line bored and the lifter blocks resleeved. when motors sit in wet places they corrode and lock up. Its a crap shoot.

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Water cooled Dry Sumped Subaru Powered Turbo Charged Fuel Injected 2500CC Tank. Oh Rah! He who dies with the most Toys not only wins, He also wears them out!

I am having a 1915cc built right now, its still at the engine builders. Its gonna have a new Engle 110, new 94mm pistons, Tri Mill exhaust, Chrome Shroud, oil filter pump, Dual Dellorto 40s with the tall Air cleaners. I will take $2000 for if your interested. It will be ready to run just add oil. Engine is being built be Shadetree Performance.

Do yourself a favor and build your new stroker motor on a brand new case. Save up for it and get one. You will be far better off in the long haul.

How much are new cases? What and where is a good place to get one? I don't really need the best, kinda working on a budget here.

jims custom vw in columbiana ohio sells and builds if you never heard of him before he built my 1915 for the guy i got it off of he has a website with blocks on them not a big picking but if you wanted more info you would have to call him 1-800-621-3503 he is reasonable on his stuff ithink his cases start around 400-500 and goes up he also has big swap meets in april might find something good then but its running into buggy season by then

$100 isn't too bad for a complete engine thats locked up. I would see if you could get them down around $50. Even if the internals are junk, there still may be quite a few things you could salvage for a future engine. Like Odyknuck said, its a crap shoot. I have been extremely lucky when it comes to buying engines of unknown condition. It all depends on whats causing the engine to lock up. I've taken apart engines that had one cylinder get water in it rusting the rings. Once the cylinder was freed up, and engine dissassembled, the case and crank were good being reused in "as in condition". On only one instance I did take apart an engine that was severly corroded, and everything was junk. I would take the oil sump plate off the bottom, and see if the bottom of the case is corroded around were the screen would go. If you take the plate off, and a bunch of water comes out, there's a good chance there may not be much salvageable. If it is only a piston that is causing it to sieze up, then you could see if you could get the crank to move back and forth to get an estimate of the end play. Take the valve covers off to see what condition the rocker area is in. Again, if it has the rockers completely rusted up, the heads may not be reuseable. Just kind of use common sense. If you get oil out of the engine, and the engine looks clean, take a chance. If it looks like the person dug it up out of his back yard, run! New cases are in the $450+ range now a days, so that option may be out if you are on a budget. I see no problem in using a good used original VW Case. One of the siezed engines I got off of a buddy for $50 was one of the single piston siezed instances. I used the "sledge-o-matic" to remove the cylinder, and ending up getting a good base I built a 1776 on that has 45,000+ miles on it in a street car.