did a search but didn't turn up really what I'm after. Motor I'm running "supposedly" was rebuilt just prior to me getting it, but you know how that goes... Have good pressure on cold motor, around 50 psi idling but drops to shit whenever it warms up. Had a mech. gauge on it and though it might be the gauge so I bought an electric gauge and put original oil switch & indicator light in. Pressure drops almost to none when hot but will come up to around 15psi when you throttle it. Indicator light doesn't come on when pressure drops off so gauge obviously isn't completely accurate. Pulled oil pump cover tonight and only obvious thing I've seen so far is some wear in the pump cover from pump gears. But only the lower gear has been making contact with inside of cover, and it's not enough to where you can really feel it. You can BARELY feel just slightest step, I wouldn't think this would cause problems I'm having. Has full flow cover and block has been tapped for oil return from cooler. Running castrol 10-40 with remote filter(wix 51515), remote cooler, unsure what kind of pump it is. Would have pulled it tonight but it wouldn't budge and I was tired anyway. Oil relief & control springs have been changed but didn't swap out valves with the supplied ones from one of those booster kits. Theres several things it could be i know but can someone start steering me in the right direction please??

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--WHEN IN DOUBT, THROTTLE OUT!!!--

what type and are you sure the gauge is correct?

check tolerance between the pump gear and pump housing also, and it wouldn't hurt to resurface the cover

next thing i would make sure fitment of the oil plungers is ok and spring pressure is up to par

once all the above checks out the next likely cause would be worn bearings or excessive bearing clearance possibly due to improper machining

you could also try some 20w50 oil and see what that does, thats all i ever run in any of my "toys" anyway

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Just Stand On It!!!!

Chris

A VW air cooled only had like 7 PSI hot from the factory. I know it is concerning but check the items mentioned above if it improves great, if it doesn't then just unplug the gauge and run an idiot light off a factory sender. If the light comes on and stays on shut it off.

I had a relief spring that stuck that cased my oil light to come on and stay on. It was weird once we pulled it back to camp refired it and it had oil pressure.

Had to replace the springs and plungers problem solved.

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Water Cooled Consortium, Chairman of the Build (Former AC purist)

forgot to mention its aircooled & dual relief case. Already have idiot light on it & it's yet to come on when the presesure drops. How tight should the relief valve fit in the case? I'm going to put oil pump cover back on it tonight and change the relief & pressure control valve. What do yall run on the oil pump cover? Paper gasket or permatex? It had a real thin red colored gasket on it when I took it apart. I've tried 2 different gauges on it so I could start narrowing down possibilities and they're both reading pretty much the same. Also for the ones of you that run a gauge and factory oil indicator light where do you put sending units? I've got the factory sender in the case near the distributor, and have the sender for gauge in the rear where the factory doghouse cooler goes. I'm using a blockoff plate to delete factory cooler and it has a 1/8" NPT port made into it, so I put gauge sender there

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--WHEN IN DOUBT, THROTTLE OUT!!!--

If your oil pump uses a o-ring then do not use the paper gasket. Do not use silicon, if it get in the oil galleries your done. You should not have to worry as long as you idiot light is not on and staying on then don't sweat it run it like you stole it.

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Water Cooled Consortium, Chairman of the Build (Former AC purist)

so what kind of gasket do i use? i didnt see any o-ring?

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--WHEN IN DOUBT, THROTTLE OUT!!!--

Thin paper

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Water Cooled Consortium, Chairman of the Build (Former AC purist)

just ran my motor for the first time with a gage and i have 20/50 oil in mine first start befor it warms up its at 60 and once its fully heated its at 20 try thicker oil if you dont run it all rdy

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I DO NOT FREE BASE COCAINE

Theres a square paper gasket that goes under the oil pump cover. Also if you dont feel good about the pressure then dont run it. I had a motor that did the same thing and seized up on the first ride. I would start by trying thicker oil and if that dont work then install the full oil boooster kit along with the pistons. They make a adjuster that you can install on the oil galley by the flywheel that you can adjust the pressure to where you like it. Good luck and go with your gut instinct.

some people may be comfortable with this kind of pressure but it may be cause all of the toys I've been accustomed to has had lot more oil pressure. But then again most of my previous & current other toys were either twin cam harley motors or small block chevy for most part. Thanks again for all the help, I guess I'm gonna pull oil pump tonight and try to see what kind it is and I think I'm going to try runnning a high volume pump. So some of you say not to run a melling, others say they're good? But pretty much unanimous that the bugpack ones are good? What's the difference between the size gears? I.E 26mm, or 30mm? 30 mm pump more oil?

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--WHEN IN DOUBT, THROTTLE OUT!!!--

a 26mm should be fine, the bigger pumps tend to pump the oil out faster than it returns and will suck the pan dry if you stay in it for very long at a time on a hill, at least that what one of mine does

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Just Stand On It!!!!

Chris

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