I had to give up last night. I've got two motors right now. The one I built for my buggy (1641) and a recently bought used 1776. I'm in the process of trading parts from on another to but the best of the two on the 1776. I was trying to install my 1.25 (with swival feet) rockers on the 1776 and it didn't seem like the they were mating up well. At the same time I was putting chromoly pushrods out of the 1641 which were a bit longer than the stock aluminumn. I went back and forth with the push rods and everything. Am I missing something? I don't remember having this problem when I put the 1.25 on my 1641.

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A broken clock is right two times a day.

What exactly do you mean about "not mating up well"? I have built hundreds of engines and I can help you but I need a little more information.
I do want to mention two things though while I am here. First of all if you are using the VW 1.25 rocker arms, I recommend grinding them down a bit under the swivel foot. What I mean by this is......if you screw the swivel foot in the rocker and turn it all the way in till it bottoms out, the surface it bottoms against needs to be ground down a bit so the adjuster can screw into the rocker a bit further. Second......you usually have to use a shim or two underneath the rocker shafts where they sit on the head. This will stand off the whole rocker shaft assembly away from the head a bit to compensate for the extra thickness of the swivel feet. All VW motors are different when you start installing aftermarket jugs, pistons etc....
Plus you can have flycut heads to any measurement you want. All of these things will change how long your pushrods need to be.
Every time you change something like rocker shafts or pushrods, you MUST set your rocker arm geometry! If you do not, your valve guides will wear out VERY quickly. Worse yet, you may have a failure.
Hope this helps a little.

Roy

The samba has a pretty good thread on geometry.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=167378

If you can weed through some of the BS comments........
In a nutshell, you need to have the adjuster screw in line with the valve stem at half lift.

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Gary

Turbo VW Sand Racer
Polaris Ranger



"If you don't run into the Devil every once in awhile, you must be going in the same direction!"

Davis Motorsports FaceBook Page

Good find Gary.

Thanks

I'm going to have to take a look. Thanks. I've not went back to take a second look. I may have been doing something dumb. Appreciate the help, Adam

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A broken clock is right two times a day.

[quote='A. Cole']I'm going to have to take a look. Thanks. I've not went back to take a second look. I may have been doing something dumb. Appreciate the help, Adam[/quote]

Let us know what you find out. I'll be glad to help you out anytime.

Roy

I just went thru this over the weekend. Hence I did not make it to Wellsville to ride. I replaced my 041 heads with new CB 044s and the geometry was way off. Because the 041s had allready had a valve job or two on them the valves were sticking farther out in the heads. When i installed the 041s I did not have to use shims or grind the bottoms of the rockers for swivel feet. When I installed the 044s I had to do both and of cource make up new chromoly push rods to boot. Nothing's ever easy LOL!