Hello from North Alabama!! I did some trading and wound up with a Buggy. I’ve always wanted one, but am running into a few issues.

Here are the details:





It's a 4 month old 1915 Dual port build. It has a "Dual" Weber carb, bigger heads, blower cam, Chrome moly axles, 3 Rib Bus Trans, Cut Brakes, CNC pedals, 5 point harness, came with a t3 turbo, has an electric fuel pump, ect... It's not as "quick" as I was at first expecting, BUT it is stupid fun to drive. I took her out on the trail last night after trying to get the carb adjusted (Still working on this) and I have to say that it did surprisingly well. We have a nice little rock obstacle on a popular trail. The buggy handled it like a champ.

Issue #1.) I can't seem to dial the timing and carb in. It idles fine and revs with no load perfectly, but under load it's sputtering and often fires "through the carb". I haven't had an old schooler look at yet but I will soon. Also, after ~30 min of cruising it’ll spit-sputter and die as if it runs out of fuel. It’ll start back after roughly 10 min of setting. After the quirks are handled I'll start clean the frame up and probably re-wire the whole thing.

Issue #2.) The gear shift pattern is TIGHT, and first gear is VERY tough to get into, the other gears feel as they should with the exception of reverse; it is SUPER too easy to get into.

Issue #3.) The hydraulics on the clutch pedal are sluggish; causing the clutch the slowly engage therefore "feathering" the clutch all of the time. So it obviously got pretty warm. Any clues on why this is? I'll flush the old fluid and see if that helps.


I’ll be asking lots of questions as I go through this thing. It is definitely going to be a project. Thanks ahead of time!

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A Buggy... a Woods Buggy

first issue sounds like maybe a fuel pump, dirty carb, clogged fuel filter or lines or tank outlet
possibly even old fuel moisture in fuel

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If it ain't broke ill fix that

it probably would not hurt to have someone rebuild it or if you know how do it yourself did it sit outside begot you got it or was it sitting up a long time not being ran

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I DO NOT FREE BASE COCAINE

if thats a mechanical advance only 009 style distributor most folks set the timing by revving the engine to about 3500 rpm and setting the total advance to somewhere between 28 - 32 degrees (it varies from 1 engine to another), does the distributor have points or electronic ignition? if not electronic that would be first mod.

as for the carb, it sounds like it may cleaning and the float set, and for future reference you have what appears to be a single idf weber sometimes called a 2 barrel, a "dual" carb steup will actually have 2 separate carbs, 1 for each head whether it is of 2 barrel style or single barrel type, also these carbs dont like over 3 1/2 - 4 psi of fuel pressure so if its got an electric pump you might want to check that also.

tuning a single is a lot easier for a newbie, especially if the jetting has already done or is at least close, just start out by getting the setting the timing, then adjust the idle down as low as it will go without dieing out, then adjust the air mixture screws (the ones with the springs on the base of the carb), one at a time by turning them in till the idle starts dropping and then slowly back them out until you find the best/peak idle. after each mixture has been adjusted you may need to readjust the idle and then go back and recheck the timing and run through the carb process again as adjustment to one sometimes has an effect to the other

the shifting issue sounds like may be either some worn parts in the shifter/rod setup or possibly just needs a bit of adjustment

you got me with the clutch, ive never had that particular issue

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Just Stand On It!!!!

Chris

also that running for 30 min and then dieing could be a bad coil

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Just Stand On It!!!!

Chris

bob neusom is a good chassis, very popular in the 90s here in bama.. one thing to be leary of is cracks in the frame, especially towards the front and around welds. the later ones where made of thin wall pipe that didnt hold up to years of abuse and, unless already modified, will not accept dual carbs narrow cage around the motor and the carbs hit..good arms, good axles, good tires with lots of potential definitely a good buggy to build on

rebuild kit can be bought for CNC pedals and breaks..make sure no leaks on slave cylinder bleeding off pressure

soo many different things could be causing the spit and spudder.. these motors are simple and complicated at the same time. a lil more history may help trouble shoot ur issues. how long has it sat? was it outside?
a 1915 should be purty peppy with a 3rib and 31s, no matter how mild the motor is..hope that helps and good luck

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LEGALIZE BLUEGRASS!!!

Save a tree... eat a Beaver

was thinking the same thing, like its getting hot and breaking down..had a buggy with the same running issue and then dying off. can you smell fuel like it may be flooded when this happens? had a motor with similar symptoms to yours and i did EVERYTHING and it never totally went away and then one day it idled and revved fine but wouldnt pull out of its own tracks, ended of being a cracked carb...did fine till it warmed up and assuming the crack would open up and leak fuel into two cylinders and jus drown it out.

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LEGALIZE BLUEGRASS!!!

Save a tree... eat a Beaver

Where did you get this buggy? If ya don't mind me asking

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IF YA CAN'T RUN WITH IT....RUN FROM IT

"Also, after ~30 min of cruising it’ll spit-sputter and die"
I had an issue like this. Liked to never found it. I would take the coil off and set in in a puddle of water to cool it....then it would run a little while longer. Funny thing ...it was not the coil. It was a wire inside the dizzy that was broke inside the insulation. Apparently it would expand when hot and break connection. Accidentally found it by rubbing against that wire and my tester come on. A real freaky issue.

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When in doubt pray harder!

FANTASTIC suggestions! I having a friend clean the carb up. The coil is laying down, so this is the next order of issue. I'll simply replace it and install it vertically so that I know this will no longer be an issue..


I got this buggy from a guy in Gadsden... I got the short stick on a trade . BUT, if I can iron out some the issues then it should be fun.


THANKS a million for the info!

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A Buggy... a Woods Buggy

ALSO....


The buggy does not have an oil cooler... Is it REALLY needed?



If so, what kind of cooler set up should I implement??

Weird... I set up an account under SLOWBRAH, instead of SLWBRAH, a long time ago; but could not log on at the time???!! Guess I can now?? I'll go with this account from here on out. FYI.

oil cooler is not needed but it wont hurt most buggys have them the 5th one down should be what you need i think if im wrong correct me

http://www.dansperformanceparts.com/bug ... gyosc3.htm

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I DO NOT FREE BASE COCAINE

an oil IS needed and with that angled fan shroud im assuming it already has a external cooler somewhere, also i prefer the black "plate" type coolers over the "fin" type coolers because the fins tend to get damaged easily therefor reducung the cooling effect

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Just Stand On It!!!!

Chris

Chris is right there should be an external cooler with that type of shroud. No room for a stock cooler

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Water Cooled Consortium, Chairman of the Build (Former AC purist)

and i agree if you have the extra money go with the one with a fan

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I DO NOT FREE BASE COCAINE

Good Deal... I'll be ordering that.


The carb is getting cleaned, and I'm replacing the coil.







What's a good baseline to start from with my Weber? What jets should be in it with a 1915?

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A Buggy... a Woods Buggy

If it has points,i had a condenser go bad,and i would spit and pop back through the carb.

it may fine with the current jetting once everything else is straightened out, but we need a little more info other than weber carb and 1915 such as what size the carb is, what jets are in now, which emulsion tubes, and what size venturis are it now, also helps if you know the size of the intake valves in the heads

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Just Stand On It!!!!

Chris