I didn't really read it over. I thought it said the larger hole in the cage goes in towards the axle and the star goes in from this side as well. The star side with the flange goes in towards the axle too. If I remember correctly

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"Obstacles are those frightful things you see when you take your eyes off your goal." -Henry Ford

OK, I didn't make it to the axles but I did get the bump stop mounts made (minus the gussets) and welded on... I haven't cleaned up the welds yet so no making fun









Next question... Do you think this will work out for the limit strap?













If not should I try farther back on the tubing part of the arm, and do you think I should cut the dual shock mount into one mount?

I was hoping to get the limit strap mounts on tonight too.. but I was not 100% sure on the location is all... it will be near the shock if you look at the bottom mount you can see... not sure if that is a big deal??

I am going to sleep on it, please let me know your thoughts...


I know I have a lot of grinding to do... but I am getting better, I'm starting to feel the flow of the weld agn... like anything it takes practice...

At full compression will the arm hit the limit strap bracket? The angle the bump stop is at looks like the arm will hit the bumper, compress it and then smash the limit strap clevis.

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"Obstacles are those frightful things you see when you take your eyes off your goal." -Henry Ford

Yeah I would need to move the bottom bracket over about an inch... I can mount on top like it is or off the back side just a bit... If the bump stop clears the bottom mount you think it's good? I need to compress it agn and see what it looks like... Not sure on the clevis... Need to check that. I will jack it back p and take a few compressed pics in the morning...

Should I expect the mounts to be perfectly in line at full bump?

Few pics:


















Ideas?

Maybe this will help?

_________________
Water Cooled Consortium, Chairman of the Build (Former AC purist)

Well, does it matter how it goes on? I know I should set it at max droop but unsure if it needs to be in line... for example if I put the arm up to the bump stop should I expect the mounts to be in line or does that matter? Or should I just set the mounts up at max droop and then drop it so I know for sure the mounts are clear of any obstructions? Also does it matter where on the arm they go... I am unsure on this one... looking now to figure it out.

You want the strap to be straight and the trail arm travels in an arch. You don't want the strap to rub on the tire and you don't want the mounts to collide with each other or the shock or spring. you have adjustment with the clevis so mount it so you have some adjustment in each direction then you are set. It is hard to see how things line up in the photo as we have a fixed perspective. Tac things in place and cycle the arm through the travel with the bump in place. you can used some duct tape doubled or tripled to mock up a foe limit strap.

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Water Cooled Consortium, Chairman of the Build (Former AC purist)

OK, Does it matter if the strap is at a slight angle, so in other words if the upper bracket was about 1 inch to the left of the bottom bracket (instead of in the exact same location on top and bottom (make sense?). Also would it matter what orientation the strap was at... for example flat side forward or edge forward (only ask cause it looks like it may not end up with the edge perfectly forward).
Next: (per this quote from Mike)


If I do as follows would you say I will be good.

1. take arm to max droop (we discussed this earlier)
2. find a location for the upper and lower mounts that seem to be away from the bump stop, and shock (as well as other items).
3. lift the arm to make sure if something happens and the frame drops to the bump stops that the limit strap mounts aren't crushed. (If Good go to 4)
4. try to make it so the strap ends up with the edge facing forward and the strap square to the arm tack the mounts on... measure for strap and order.
5. put strap on (at this point tighten strap an inch (this should be the inch that will be removed from the shock bottom too).
6. if all is good complete the welds, move to the shock mounts.

I figure I should start the clevis at the outer most spot since we know the strap will stretch, and since we know I will take an inch out of the shocks as well.

thoughts...

I would leave at least four full threads above the top nut on your clevis. I would order the strap the length you need with the inch for your safety taken out. Good quad straps can stretch up to 1/8" in every inch of strap. The clevis will allow you to take up the slack as it stretches.

if at all possible keep the strap parallel to the wheel. you can move the mount forward of the strap to make it shorter

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Water Cooled Consortium, Chairman of the Build (Former AC purist)

look at locating the limit strap lower mount on the tube of your trailing arm that parallels the tire two to three inches forward of you shock mount, then locate the upper. this should shorten the strap and keep it clear of the shock and spring. it will be just in front of your bump stop mount. Try that and see what you think.

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Water Cooled Consortium, Chairman of the Build (Former AC purist)

If I move the bottom to the outer tube closest to the tire it will be farther away from the frame (looking to be sure)... only place I can find that puts the mounts on top of one another is the area where I show above but would really need to mount the bracket on the outer side of the tube for it to really be in line.

So are you saying I should order a strap that is one inch less than my final measurement?


When you say parallel to the tire you mean flat side of strap facing the tire right... but square to the arm.


going out to check your location you pointed out.

You are correct on length and strap orientation. I was just making a suggestion on the location see if it works?

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Water Cooled Consortium, Chairman of the Build (Former AC purist)

Thanks man... I will order a strap that is one inch shorter than I need... And I will make it so the straps flat side faces the tire... The location you pointed out is to far out to keep them in line... the best I can do is where I had it before... I will just need to make the bottom mount line up with the tire. It will be close.

If I cant get the mounts right on top of one another should I work the angle into the mounts so its a straight line... I think it will be a little off.









Not sure if you can tell but when down they are close to being right on top of one another... all the way up you can see they are just off... but you see the bump stop has plenty of room and the arm is not near the clevis.

thoughts? I am feeling pretty good about this location...

Just because the rubber bumper touches the trailing arm doesn't mean that is where the arm will stop. When I did my bump stops I welded them pretty good and then lowered the weight of the car on them. You'll be surprised how much that rubber smashes. I bet your arm smashes that rubber bumper an inch.

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"Obstacles are those frightful things you see when you take your eyes off your goal." -Henry Ford

I see what you mean... However even if it were to drop more than an inch or two the Clevis will not touch the arm... It sits about 1/2 inch off the side... I can move the mounts farther out but the arm goes farther outside the frame so the strap would be at an angle... More so than now... like a few inches. I will look at moving the Clovis up somehow.

OK guys, I am going to knock this out today (limit strap and bottom shock mounts)... Before I get started I need to understand something I read last night.

The limit straps should be square with the arms when at full droop... And as close to inline as possible (one over the other, not so much in same line but same plane).

Now to me this means 90 deg. off of the top of the arm at full droop... so to show what I mean I took (you guessed it) another pic:



I need to know if I am reading that right, cause before hand I understood it to be the other way, like same degree as the shock which means it would be more square at full bump.

I get the rest, no pinching, rubbing and no mount crushing when at full bump... I need to understand the above... and I think I will be ready.

I almost matched the angle of my shock as you can see in the photo and I located it the same on my previous car as well.

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Water Cooled Consortium, Chairman of the Build (Former AC purist)

thanks... that clears that up....

OK how about the angle of the mount.. And do you guys think this location is OK...







OR








Looks like plenty of room on the bottom... Is that the right angle the strap should follow (same as shock) and should I angle the clevis (or does it really matter)?

What you have will work great and it looks nice as well

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Water Cooled Consortium, Chairman of the Build (Former AC purist)

Angle of the strap means absolutely nothing at compression. The strap is just going to be folded over on itself. The only thing that matters with the strap is at full droop. The strap holds the wheel up when the wheel leaves the ground. That angle should be perpendicular "ideally" to the arm so it pulls in a straight line and doesn't side load the clevis and mount. Personally I don't think it matters a tremendous amount unless you plan to spend a lot of time with the wheels leaving the ground over and over again with very heavy tires.

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"Obstacles are those frightful things you see when you take your eyes off your goal." -Henry Ford

Thanks, that made a lot of sense... Done deal:





Now bottom shock mounts:





I can set it up so more or less... I get the following for shock travel:

Setting max droop at 25 Deg (this is all the way down till the axle has no lateral movement and up 1.5 inches) I get this:
back hole 12.5 front hole 10ish

Now this is with out moving anything just at a glance. Should I go with 12.5 for a starting point, this way when I weld the mount on, and then weld up the upper shock mount (whatever that will look like) I can remove 1 extra inch of travel to protect the shock... I think I am shooting for 11 inches of shock travel once I am done...

Have not measured the strap length yet... you guys thing max droop for 25 is a good place to start?
Maximum Angularity for each CV is listed below


Type 1 is 12 degrees
Type 2 is 17 degrees
Type 4 is 22 degrees
930 is 25 degrees


Or should I start at 25, and lift the arm 1 inch and use that for my max droop?

Looks like if I set the axle at 25 deg. My measurement for the strap is 13 inches eye to eye... This is also with the Clevis all the way out (4 full threads showing). This being the max angle for a stock gnk 930 cv (28 for mine). I figure I should get 12inch straps and use that for max droop.... Then weld up the shock mounts, bolt in the shock, and remove about 1 more inch to protect the shock.


Sound right? If so I will order the straps now...

Otherwise I can lift the arms more... I read that every inch the trans is back from the drive center you loose 1 degree of drop.. I look at it like this race prepped 930 cv's should yeald 28 deg. I am like 2-3 inches off center so that is why I thought 25 was good... Or with 25 being stock 930 max limit you would use 22... You see my point. I have no binding there is plunge... Some popping but they are still dry too...


Let me know... Also I am still trying to figure out the shock mount... My thoughts are to move the mount till the travel from the shock mount bolt hole will go upward 12 inches and go with that location...

Well because I thought it made sense... I ordered the 12 inch quad straps... I figure these with the adjusters should get me in a good place...