The rubber bumper came from Summit Racing

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Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.
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You can use an air bump if funds are not an issue. Or like you said use a piece of tube, I made mine that way and used a sway away urethane pad that bolts on to a nut I welded inside the tube.


It may be hard to see but if you look where my lower radiator hose connects just to the left is my bump stop. You will probably need to clearance the pocket like you are referencing and you sketch looks like it avoids leaving any sharp corners for metal fatigue.

You should be able to see the light at the end of the tunnel. Lets hope it is not a train

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Water Cooled Consortium, Chairman of the Build (Former AC purist)

Thanks guys... this helps me a lot.. I am done notching out the pivot bracket... I opened it up so that the arm can swing up and touch the frame (so no interference at all)... I also started to take some other things off so I can weld up the tubes I have already added... I think I will work on the bump stops too while at it.. then once I get that worked out move tot eh shock mounts... this way I figure I have the max bump (with bump stops in place... and be that time I should have my parts to weld in the limit strap mounts and measure and get the straps... so all that will be out of the way.

you guys think I should make the upper shock mount out of 1.5 or 1 inch tube? I know it is personnel opinion.. but to be honest with me not having a bender I don't think it will look good no matter what I do... so I will just go with what is good and strong.

Mike, which bump stop is that? I see a 2 inch and a 1.3... (looks like you got the 2 inch to me)...

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ens-9-9101g/overview/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dys-ku09006bk/overview/

And what did you use at the end of the pipe to screw it into?

I want to order the parts tomorrow...

I used a nut welded to a 1 1/2 dia slug from my hole saw out of some 3/8" mild steel. exact size perfectly round with the hole in the middle.

I would go with the 2" if it were me. I just used some that I had from a lift kit for a toyota truck.

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Water Cooled Consortium, Chairman of the Build (Former AC purist)

Thanks Red... I just orderd the 2 inch ones... I want to put the arms back on and see where I can position them and what the bump stop will make contact with... I am pretty sure the round one will work... if not i will look for the flat one you have... Thanks for the info... I may hit up the hardware store tomorrow and see what Sort of bungs they have as we'll...

I have the 2" ones. If you are having a hard time finding materials try here at McMaster/Carr. All the material I used to build my shifter I got from them.


2" dia x 1/2" thick disc that could be used for the bumpers
http://www.mcmaster.com/
type in part # 7786T12

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man, that's a work of art Mike... thanks for the link...if I don't have any luck at the local hardware place tonight I will order two of those... Just to be sure the disk is just a big washer right? so in other words I would just weld the nut in the middle...

Thanks for the info.

No, you need to drill & tap a hole in the middle.

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Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.
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Will be doing the bump stops tomorrow, or at least starting it...

So I want to do same as the max droop right... lift till the axle has no movement and lower an inch... or if its still higher than the bottom cage, lower where the tire is about 1/2 inch below the cage (in my case the lowest part is the red bracket below my trans. (sound right?) if so should I get both arms in that same spot and make sure the axles turn free... I think they will catch a little like they were doing when I dropped them but we can discuss later if that's the case...

That is max compression. I doubt you will ever see max compression under normal conditions and you can make that your max for the rubber bump stops. Droop is all the way down that's why it's called droop You have the right idea though. Droop is where you will see most of the cv angle most of the time that is why it's a little more important to set up right.

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Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.
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OK Mike... so all the way up and drop it like an inch is fine (and a little more if its still above the red bracket)... (or I may keep it all the way up minus an inch cause I was thinking of going to 33's (thoughts?)... I will fab up the upper bump stop mount this weekend, and I hope get a good start on the upper and lower shock as well. Once I have the bump stop mount tacked I will move on to the limit strap mounts...

thanks for the quick response...

Set it up with the smaller tire anything bigger will add more of a safety margin.

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Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.
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got it, thank you sir

Looking good man, you will have a great looking car that rides nice too. Glad to see you are progressing with it.

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Water Cooled Consortium, Chairman of the Build (Former AC purist)

Red, the thanks goes out to you guys for hanging in there and helping a new guy out... We'll see how it turns out... I wish I had better tools... but all in all I think it will be nice. Next year I will try to get the front set up right as well... gotta pay off what I already charged up

you guys are too cool... thanks...

Dude this is just they way guys that ride and build buggies are. Just wait until you break down and one of us push you to the side to fix it so you can keep riding. I have been working on these things since I was like 6 years old. I built my first car at 15 years old. It was nothing like what you are working on. It had a 36 horse single port and swing axle out of a wrecked 63 bug. It is actually the title I use today.

You are learning a lot from this site and I myself would like to thank the guys that maintain this site as it allows me to share all of the experiences with guys like you.

I really thank you for the recognition. I have learned a bunch from madmike as well.

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Water Cooled Consortium, Chairman of the Build (Former AC purist)

question for you guys on CV clocking... I know the idea is to match wide with narrow, I get that and have done so for both the outer CV to the inner star... as well as wide to narrow for one CV to the other on the axle.

but....

How about the cage... I see that the step on the star goes out (facing the axle side) but you know how the cage has a wider opening on one side than the other... right now I have the wider opening facing the cups so the smaller opening is facing the axle (same as the step on the star)... does this matter at all?

I started to build out the bump stops, I welded the nut to the washer, will be cutting the tube today and hope to have them done by tonight... Should I add gussets for the bump stop mounts? they look like the tube will be about 3-4 inches long plus the bump stop its self... just wanted your opinion... I have some flat stock, I could add a few gussets I guess if needed.

Honestly don't know on the CV question. On the gussets for the bump stop mounts, I can't see where it would hurt. I'd say put a little gusset in there to strengthen it up some. Rarely will get used but when they do they usually have a lot of force on them holding the cars weight.

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"Obstacles are those frightful things you see when you take your eyes off your goal." -Henry Ford

thanks... I will add some flat stock for gussets on the bump stop mount... I figure same as you... cant hurt to make things stronger.

let me know if anyone has ideas on the CV question... seems ok how I have them.. but I don't want to find out after they are packed and done that I should of changed them up is all.

http://www.duneguide.com/sand_dune_tech_cv101.htm

Large side faces axle.

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"Obstacles are those frightful things you see when you take your eyes off your goal." -Henry Ford

you rock... I could not find a single thing... and leave it to me to pick the losing deal on a 50/50 chance... I will switch it so the large opening and the step on the star are both facing the axle side...

thanks man... big help.

That's typically the choice I make too. Wrong choice. We learn from it and kick stuff, then move on.

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"Obstacles are those frightful things you see when you take your eyes off your goal." -Henry Ford

lol... true... thanks agn man

wait, I just looked at that info agn...

larger edge meaning the smaller opening side goes out facing the axle right (same side as the step in the star), and smaller edge - or bigger opening (in my case the only side the star will fit in)... goes facing out, or to the cups...

Never mind... I am dreaming:
2. Cage: Notice that one side of the cage should be slightly larger than the other side (except for stock cages). The larger opening should face the middle of the axle and the star should be inserted in this side.