Mike, he has his shocks, I am not sure about springs and you are right he really needs a mock up spring set. Hey are you building HD coil over front beams for King and link?

When I bought the springs I told the guy what I had, he told me what to get... I don't remember talking about any weight factor (I have never weighed it )

Call this guy back and tell him your sending the springs back. I want to ask who you called but I won't, he's a douche bag for not asking your weights. It's IMPOSSIBLE to recommend springs with out weights and measurements.
READ THIS
http://f-o-a.com/calculator.html

OK... while I have your attention... Let me ask.

you say they will tell me where they want to be... I am sure you mean by when I lift and lower the axle/arm and turn the axle by hand I need to listen for the noise... with this said should I drop it till I hear noise (the catching I showed you guys in the video) and then lift till its 100% gone and stay with that? (meaning this is my max droop) then weld up my fully extended shock and then add the straps as you say and take another 1 inch out of the shock?

When I say they will tell you where they want to live I mean when it's all finished, your on the trail and either the click is there or it's not there. If it's there adjust it until it's gone, if it's not there you can raise it up some. On my last car my CV's always clicked a little, a little mind you.

or should I look at it like this... drop the axle/arm till the axle has no movement, lift each side about 1.5 inches and then keep that as max droop (eve if its catching) then weld up the shocks, and add the limit straps (as you stated) and dial them in both reducing the shock travel a little and removing any left over popping/clicking/ and so on in the CV's...

YES

Before you weld in the shock mounts shorten the shock 1" That helps from over extending the shock, which is the last thing you want to do to a shock and if need be you can gain a little more droop if it's not right.

It seems like everyone has a dif. opinion on this... I just want to do it right...

First make the stub axles and drive flanges level with each other. There should be some lateral movement with the axle, somewhere around 3/16" to 1/4" this makes sure the axles are not too long, the lateral movement should be the same for each side. If one side has more than the other the trans is not centered, that should be corrected first. Start to lower the trailing arm while moving the axle back and forth, just as the lateral movement stops raise the trailing arm up one inch and set your limit straps that is max droop. Do the opposite moving the trailing arm up and set your bump stop. There might be some fine tuning needed is there is a bunch of clicking from the cv's at max droop, just shorten up the limit straps some.