what about using a dremel with fine sandpaper? it looks a little egged out anyhow, just dont go overboard and take to much off

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Check the edge of the snap rings they may have a burr that is keeping them from Snapping in properly. If you have a micrometer you can check the thickness. If they are new aftermarket they maybe slightly out of speck. If you have some German snap rings try them as well.

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Water Cooled Consortium, Chairman of the Build (Former AC purist)

They said they were new bus snap rings... But I dont know if there German. I will work them over I guess... I have a hand grinder and a dremmal... It can't be that far off... So that will be the next thing I will do...

Just back in this morning... thought I would try a few things...

1. I took my hand grinder over the clips and they work fine... (like 2 -3 passes each side, I suspect aftermarket poo... will look for German so I can replace on down the road).

2. For the heck of it I put the stub in and tightened it pretty well (left oil seal out for now, still need to pack the bearings with grease)... I took the first measurement just at a glance and this is what I have: Note I will need to get some string and a string level to be sure the flange and stub are exactly paralleled with each other).

Pass side shy of 21 3/4 close to 21 1/2
Drivers side little more than 21 1/2 and a bit closer to 21 3/4

Now remember I have the hymens joints on these arms so I am not even sure how true they are for an alignment... thinking I need to find a way to be sure its tracking closer to what it should be and measure agn with a string and a string level??

what do you guys think.

if they are like 21 3/4 I cant get the sway away's as they come in 21 3/8 and then 22 inches.... but agn I need to check the alignment and try agn...


thanks guys...

Vanagon axles would probably work but not with 930 CV joints. Vanagon had 21.5" axles on certain models or certain sides of the bus. Vanagon would have 33 spline axles and 930 CV's are only 28 spline. I'm sure you can order axles that will fit. You can also move the transaxle slightly one way or the other to get it centered.

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"Obstacles are those frightful things you see when you take your eyes off your goal." -Henry Ford

I guess if they end up as 21 21/32 (between 21 1/2 and 21 3/4) and I subtract 1/4... it may be dead on 21 3/8. I will know more tomorrow as I will work on the alignment with they hymens joints.

I bet this is what it ends up being...
21 3/8

Kartek has any length you need. When and if you call ask for Baja Mike and tell him Eric Johnson told you to call. Lastly make sure to ask for the racer price. He should give you a great price. They make there own axles and cam make any length. If you budget allows go for the 300M a little more expensive but the twist some and are easier on the drive line. If you really want to spend some dollars they can gun drill them to save some weight. I would go with 20 1/4" axles if it were me.

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Water Cooled Consortium, Chairman of the Build (Former AC purist)

This morning I laid out some string for some better measurements... this is what I have (much closer than I was thinking on the alignment).

Front: Driver side 7 1/4 + 1
7 1/4 + 0

Front passenger side 7 1/4 + 2
7 1/4 + 3
Guessing beam is slightly off center or my measurement was slightly off??

Rear driver side 7 1/2
7 1/2

Rear passenger side 7 1/2
7 1/2


I had to turn the hymens joint all the way in and that got it pretty much perfect... It may have been a mm or so off but from the tools I have and used it looked good. The front could be the beam is a tiny bit offset... should this matter... if so I will come back to it and see if I can shift it over a tad??

Final measurement for the axle is 22 inches from inner cup to inner cup... this was with a string to the exact center of the deepest part of the flange and stub... that are your thoughts on this... I am thinking if I used a wider diameter measuring device it may not have gone as deep...

You know what to do know subtract a 1/4" and you can place an order for you axles. When you get the front beam centered you may want to weld on a small piece of steel so that it does't wander in the clamps. I just cut a small piece of leaf spring from the throw away half of the spring pack. You would only do this providing you have a widened beam.

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Water Cooled Consortium, Chairman of the Build (Former AC purist)

Do you think the measurement with the string is ok... Or should I get some 1 inch PVC and make some sort of slide device? I want to be sure... Or if you guys all use strings and subtract 1\4 thank will not waste the money... Where the heck do I find 21 3\4 axles?

the front beam is stock width... Still ok to weld the stops? I like that idea

I think you'll end up with 21.5" axles. Unless you're totally maxed out on plunge and travel I really don't see that you'll need to get it that close.

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"Obstacles are those frightful things you see when you take your eyes off your goal." -Henry Ford

Yes, it will work to get on a stock beam. They can walk if you don't. Kartek phone 951-737-7223 Ask for baja Mike if he is there. They make the shafts to order. They are in California so if you get the message early enough you can call them tonight for pricing. Copy this web address to your browser and it will take you to the page. http://www.kartek.com/Product/DriveTrain/Axles

Both Sets are in stock, Just got off the phone with Baja Mike

Kartek 300M Axles @ 21 1/4" ---$630.00
Sway Away 300M Axles @ 21 3/8"---- $530.00

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Water Cooled Consortium, Chairman of the Build (Former AC purist)

Ok... 21.5 it is. Where should I look for them at? I like used parts if I can find them...

You think I should re measure with something wider? Or go with it? I measured like 5 times to be sure with the string... It is a nylon string so stretch would be minimal and feel like it was 22 dead on. I will set up my string agn and check the alignment... Then measure one more time... If it's 22 do you think I should do 21.5.

Thanks for the help... I will need to save up toget the axles before I can move to the shock mounts... I have most of it already... Depending on price.

Thanks red barron I will look tonight for some used ones... Then I will call them in the morning... Afraid of what the price might be... But if they are made per order I guess I could do 21 3\4 if I needed... I want to be sure...

21.5 or 21 3/4????

You can get Chromoly a bit cheaper but under no circumstances do I recommend EMPI or used. If you change the direction of rotation on any axle they can spiral fracture or shatter. If you have time call Mike he is great. I have been buying from these guys for a,most 15 years.

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Water Cooled Consortium, Chairman of the Build (Former AC purist)

You'd have to check the length but they are for 3x3.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/ ... id=1320646

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"Obstacles are those frightful things you see when you take your eyes off your goal." -Henry Ford

Axles for 3x3 measure out at 19 1/4" according to my catalog from Sway Away the part number listed is for the 19 1/4" axle.

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Water Cooled Consortium, Chairman of the Build (Former AC purist)

I did get a 3x3 but remember I have a bus torsion so I started out wider than standard bug... so I have 3 inches wider than stock bus... I re measured agn (4 hours of checking and re checking all for the back...

I get 2 8th short of 22 if I use a one inch slide pole I put together, or 22 even if I use string.

If I do the math as the directions go, that is 21 3/4 with string or minus 2 8ths for the one inch slide pole.







Also I need to notch the mount for the trailing arm so its not limited by that... any thoughts other than marking it off and taking my grinder to it?





was thinking something like this:

Looks like 21 7/8" to me. Once you take the 1/4" or 3/8" off the axle you'll be fine with 21 1/2" axles. Grinder should work for the mounts. Just cut a half oval out of it similar to whats in the pic you posted.

http://www.pacificcustoms.com/AC525321-5.html

I have not experience with these axles and have no idea who makes them. They are expensive! I'll keep my eyes open. I'm not convinced you'll need 300M axles. Chromoly should be fine, but the sizes vary from one material and manufacturer to another.

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"Obstacles are those frightful things you see when you take your eyes off your goal." -Henry Ford

Thanks man... 21 1/2 it is.... Been searching for used all day... Nothing found yet. I don't have 5-600 bucks right now for new ones... So I will be saving up as I keep looking for a deal... Looks like I am on hold till I have funding for the axles....

PM me and I can find you a great price for Chromolly Axles. I get distributer pricing from a few suppliers.

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Water Cooled Consortium, Chairman of the Build (Former AC purist)

Few questions... I will be running a 2175 vw motor... Might or might not add a turbo later... Most likely not... But I am guessing HP to be well below 200... At what hp should I need 300m? I don't mind getting them if its a needed thing... Do you guys think the chromoly ones will snap?

My current options.
1. Wait for used...
2. Looks like the axles sold by pacificcoustoms.com are the kartek axles (I checked the kartek site and the show up as reseller)... So I can buy one now, or soon anyway and start the mockup of the shocks with one axle I can move from side to side... And just get the other soon as I can... I like this option, if I do ever damage one, I can just order one.
3. I found a guy on eBay that makes the axles out of 4130 and hardens them... He said he will cut a 22 inch to exactly whatever measurement I need all for 265.00 for two axles.... Thoughts on this?

His ad
http://www.ebay.com/itm/290485456372?item=290485456372&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME:X:RTQ:MOTORS:1123&vxp=mtr

Also looking forward to what Red Barron comes up with... I wish I was closer to you guys... Thanks for helping me...

I would run with it. Chromoly will work for your application I doubt you will damage the axle. The CV joints and ring gear take a bit more abuse as the chromoly don't twist torsionally. I ran chromoly in my old 2 seater with a 200 HP Porsche 914 engine, never a problem.

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Water Cooled Consortium, Chairman of the Build (Former AC purist)

Tire size, tire weight, driving habits and amount of abuse should dictate what strength you want. If you drop the clutch at 7000 rpm with 38" cut boggers then I'd go the best you can afford. I don't think you'll have a problem with the chromoly myself.

Here are some 300M options too:

http://www.alpermotorsports.com/index.p ... ail&p=1356

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"Obstacles are those frightful things you see when you take your eyes off your goal." -Henry Ford

I would add the weight of the car plays a big role in how long parts will last. There are a couple of battle wagons up here that break almost everything you can think of, and they buy the best you can get. Unless you have real deep pockets with $$$ burning a hole in them, hardened 4130 axles are more than enough. And side step the clutch at 7000 rpm with cut boggers, you will have transmission problems first. I am suspect of anything claimed to be made of 300m material with out a materials specification sheet. I doubt if anyone here has priced 300m, I have. To say the prices are stupid would be an understatement.

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