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PostPosted: Thu Oct 18, 2012 9:58 am 
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After a lot of research I decided to get a Donaldson filter for my buggy. It's turbo charged and should move a lot of air so I was worried about the smaller canister filters. I read all kinds of information and it seems a lot of people are having good success with this Donaldson, even on big V8's like the LS series of engines. Problem, it's huge! My engine area is crammed for space already so finding a place for this thing that is somewhat protected is going to be a tough job. Thought I'd share a couple pictures of it. The paint can is there for size reference. Looks like a small trash can with a filter in it. 8)

Here is the model and specs on it. My turbo inlet is 4" so it's a good fit.:
https://dynamic.donaldson.com/webc/WebS ... tem=240601

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 18, 2012 10:04 am 
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This is better than a paint can

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 18, 2012 11:53 am 
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Jesus. That's huge. Lol


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 18, 2012 12:10 pm 
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I have been wanting to put one of the UMP super filter on my race buggy, but I bet that one is just as light and even cheaper! Looks great, now I want to see how ya mount it! :mrgreen:

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 18, 2012 12:28 pm 
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It's not heavy. I read that if you take the inner filter out and just leave the main filter it flows a lot of air. I may need a roof rack or trailer to mount it on.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 18, 2012 1:04 pm 
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http://www.enginaire.com/ Several of us up here are using filters from enginaire. I know they have something that will flow what you need and a bunch smaller.
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 18, 2012 2:46 pm 
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I think I can make this work. It's huge but it doesn't look to awful on the car.

Here was my first thought. Run a 180 from the turbo and then straight into the air cleaner. This is the shortest run I can do with the least amount of bends. I hate the way it looks though. Obviously it's just set in there in all these pics so mounted would look better anyway.

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I like this spot better. Sits lower but requires a few more bends in the tubing to get it hooked up. I like the way this looks a lot better.

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If I turn it so the intake is sideways I could build a cool side scoop for it out of aluminum or something.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 18, 2012 2:59 pm 
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What does everyone think about the tubing? The intercooler tubing is all stainless and I like how easy it is to work with but it's expensive, especially for 4". I can tig aluminum but I'm not that great at it. It's cheaper but I'm not sure worth it for my welding skill level. I thought about pvc but I'm not sure that would look good at all. Any good sources for mandrel bent 4" 90's in a fairly tight radius? I saw some on ebay but they aren't cheap.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 18, 2012 3:24 pm 
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You can get a induction parts kit with the silicon fitting from summit. It would be in 3" so you would need a concentric 3x4 reducer to connect to the filter. You may also check with them on ss mandrel bent custom build yourself exhaust tubing and just buy the silicone fittings. That was the route my buddy Randy went when he didi his. He was the Feb. BOTM in 2012. Hope that helps.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 18, 2012 3:51 pm 
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fortydegnorth wrote:
What does everyone think about the tubing? The intercooler tubing is all stainless and I like how easy it is to work with but it's expensive, especially for 4". I can tig aluminum but I'm not that great at it. It's cheaper but I'm not sure worth it for my welding skill level. I thought about pvc but I'm not sure that would look good at all. Any good sources for mandrel bent 4" 90's in a fairly tight radius? I saw some on ebay but they aren't cheap.

I get all my mandrel bent tubing here, Your right it's not cheap. Stainless is way easier to TIG than aluminum.
http://www.woolfaircraft.com/

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 18, 2012 4:04 pm 
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Those prices are not bad. I used beverage fittings to build my exhaust and I think a 1d 90 in 3" was $85.00 each.
I just though I would throw out the build your own exhaust type kits. They are a bit thinner but no super expensive for 304 SS.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 18, 2012 4:10 pm 
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I found 4" 90 degree elbows on ebay. They are steel, mandrel bent and have 12" and 15" legs. $19 plus shipping. For 3 elbows that I would need it would be $78. I'd have to paint them but eventually I could have them ceramic coated or something to match the exhaust on the car. The legs are almost long enough that I wouldn't even need any additional straight pieces. Couple silicone connectors and I'd be set.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 19, 2012 8:41 am 
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MadMike wrote:
http://www.enginaire.com/ Several of us up here are using filters from enginaire. I know they have something that will flow what you need and a bunch smaller.
Image
Image


Not to mention the enginaire unit has a turbine fan to throw the dirt to the outside of the cannister and 4 stages of filtering.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 19, 2012 9:01 am 
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Donaldson is turbine also. Even the filter has the plastic fins to throw the dirt out.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 19, 2012 11:39 am 
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Man that buggy has more plumbing than my basement. You must be a certified pipe fitter by now. Great looking fabrication I think you could filter the world through that thing. :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 19, 2012 12:05 pm 
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Yes it does. All that means to me is the potential for a lot of leaks and more headaches. :lol:

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 19, 2012 12:48 pm 
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What's wrong with the nice looking K&N filter?


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 19, 2012 12:53 pm 
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fortydegnorth wrote:
Donaldson is turbine also. Even the filter has the plastic fins to throw the dirt out.


AH! Ok as they did not always have it.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 19, 2012 1:10 pm 
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K&N filters are JUNK for off road. What makes a K&N filter work is they allow more air flow by increasing the mesh size. By increasing the mesh size they allow more particulate to pass through. My first Subaru conversion had a K&N filter, after a season I took the fresh air supply apart. The inside of the tubing was covered with fine dust, I replaced the K&N with a replaceable paper element filter. After some time I took the fresh air system apart, it was dust free. All the dust that had coated the tubing was also going into the motor, which we all know isn't good. I will NEVER use a K&N filter for off road again.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 19, 2012 1:24 pm 
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MadMike wrote:
K&N filters are JUNK for off road. What makes a K&N filter work is they allow more air flow by increasing the mesh size. By increasing the mesh size they allow more particulate to pass through. My first Subaru conversion had a K&N filter, after a season I took the fresh air supply apart. The inside of the tubing was covered with fine dust, I replaced the K&N with a replaceable paper element filter. After some time I took the fresh air system apart, it was dust free. All the dust that had coated the tubing was also going into the motor, which we all know isn't good. I will NEVER use a K&N filter for off road again.


I am sure I am not the only one who thinks this but I'm gonna say it. I am so glad to see you posting,the information and knowledge you bring to the forums is what helps a lot of us learn and see different things that we would not get to experience with out you.and on top that your a straight up good guy.glad to see you back mike. Chad :mrgreen:

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 19, 2012 2:07 pm 
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The filter I have on there is an AEM. I've heard they are better than K&N, especially with an outerwear, but I just don't trust them after all I've read. I agree with Mike that they have been known to let a lot of dirt through. For the street I wouldn't hesitate to use it but not for offroad. Since I'm tuning the fuel and timing tables I'd rather do it for the filter I will run most of the time.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 19, 2012 5:34 pm 
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Odyknuck, I was mistaken. This filter is actually just a straight filter with a secondary filter inside. It must be our mowers or bobcat that has the white fins on the filter. This filter has a turbine type setup on the housing itself. If you look into the intake of the housing its a plastic baffle that corkscrews around the housing. Not sure if it's any worse or better but I'll give it a try.

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 20, 2012 9:14 pm 
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fortydegnorth wrote:
The filter I have on there is an AEM. I've heard they are better than K&N, especially with an outerwear, but I just don't trust them after all I've read. I agree with Mike that they have been known to let a lot of dirt through. For the street I wouldn't hesitate to use it but not for offroad. Since I'm tuning the fuel and timing tables I'd rather do it for the filter I will run most of the time.

OK, I'm just trying to learn something. I hadn't realized that foam style elements were such complete pieces of shit. :shock:


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 21, 2012 2:52 pm 
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Just curious but what would be the best cfm for a filter that I was going to run two 48 webbers through a set of S/F 44x37.5 valves 2387. Chad :mrgreen:

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 21, 2012 5:37 pm 
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The website link that madmike posted above has a cfm calculator on it. You need to know you cubic inches, rpm and some other specs, but it's not difficult. The K&N filters have been bashed pretty hard on other sites concerning sand and fine silt. They have some tests to backup there statements but I don't have any firsthand information. The canister filters, UMP, Donaldson, Enginaire or whoever else, seem to be the best filter for dusty conditions. It makes sense I guess. Every bulldozer, backhoe, skidsteer and a lot of lawnmowers run then mow.

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