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PostPosted: Sat Mar 10, 2012 9:06 am 
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i keep having this issue of the the scavenge side of the pump not putting the oil back into the tank therefore fill the block plum full of oil till its bloweing out anywhere it can

its a bugpack pump, i have repalced all the lines and fittings with the push-loc hose like pipedope and a few others are running and im running the wix racing filters and have just through putting in a new pump since thats about the only thing in the whole oiling system i hadnt already replaced, so far i have spent around $450 not counting oil and filters trying to fix this problem and have had no luck as of yet

the plumbing goes like this, tank>pump>filter>cooler>enginge>pump>filter>tank

the valve covers are vented along with the oil filler neck to a "breather box" and im also still running the "factory" sump screen

also i might add this problem usually only occurs if left to idle for a couple of minutes or more at a time, if i crack the throttle occasionely it usually keeps pumping like it should but it did happen once while riding last summer

im thinking about replacing the 2nd wix filter (the one before the tank) with a oberg and also maybe doing away with the "factory" sump screen as the next option 's unless somebody has any other ideas

im about to the point that im so mad/confused i dont know whether to cry or burn it :cry: :evil: :roll:

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 10, 2012 9:51 am 
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ridenrace6 wrote:

the plumbing goes like this, tank>pump>filter>cooler>enginge>pump>filter>tank

the valve covers are vented along with the oil filler neck to a "breather box" and im also still running the "factory" sump screen

also i might add this problem usually only occurs if left to idle for a couple of minutes or more at a time, if i crack the throttle occasionely it usually keeps pumping like it should but it did happen once while riding last summer

im thinking about replacing the 2nd wix filter (the one before the tank)

Confused on your plumbing.but could it be getting an air pocket.is your tank vented properly.could you have a filter that's not letting enough oil pass through quick enough at idle.just throwing some stuff out there.
Chad :mrgreen:

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 10, 2012 10:10 am 
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on the plumbing i guess i could have explained it better but it comes out of one part in the list and goes into the next part in the list starting at the bottom (supply) port of the tank and ending at the top (return) port of the tank and starts all over

tank>pump>filter>cooler>enginge>pump>filter>tank

yes the tank is vented and it had fram filters when i first got the buggy and now it has wix racing filters, but i do think it has to some kind of restriction on the "return" side causeing this i just aint figured out what yet but my last guess is to rplace the wix with a oberg and/or eliminate the "factory" sump screen

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 10, 2012 10:57 am 
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I would remove the filter between the pump and the tank, one filter should be more than enough i would think. I just run one filter on mine and never had a problem.


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 10, 2012 11:23 am 
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i run same pump style and i do not have a filter in the return to tank line i do have a regular dry sump screen in the suction side it looks like a oversized fuel filter with like a 100 micron screen i have on regular filter between pump and engine hope this helps


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 10, 2012 1:09 pm 
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I am running the factory screen on my pickup for the pump (closest to the motor), in-line cooler, WIX filter, then in the top of the tank. Bottom of tank to the secondary part of the pump (farthest away from the motor) Derale oil cooler, oberg filter, then into the full flow port on the engine....no issues here....

Anyhow, I do have a small issue on trying to get the system to prime properly everytime I change the oil and filter, I always put 4-5 quarts in the case then turn the motor over for about 10-12 seconds (with the coil wire off) then add about 2 more quarts in the case, turn it over some more (10-12 seconds) then hook up your coil wire and start it up, I know that you may not have any pressure right off the bat, but it will be there in a second or so, once your oil pressure is confirmed, continue to pour oil into the TANK, not the case and fill the tank to where you barely cover the baffles and that is all you need, you don't want to put too much oil in it, it will puke out of the vent on the tank....

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 10, 2012 1:11 pm 
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On second thought, is your lines hooked up properly on the remote oil filter? That could be the issue here if hooked up backwards........the fram filters does not have a check valve and the WIX filters does.....

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2012 9:49 am 
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did you plug the on the left side of the block where the pump slides in? Not sure if it applies to your pump however thats what I had to do for the CB performance unit i ran.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 12, 2012 12:10 am 
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Odyknuck wrote:
did you plug the on the left side of the block where the pump slides in? Not sure if it applies to your pump however thats what I had to do for the CB performance unit i ran.


yes i checked that while i was replacing the pump

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 12, 2012 12:13 am 
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buggiejunky wrote:
i run same pump style and i do not have a filter in the return to tank line i do have a regular dry sump screen in the suction side it looks like a oversized fuel filter with like a 100 micron screen i have on regular filter between pump and engine hope this helps


do you have a link or info on where i can get one of those dry sump screens?

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 12, 2012 12:22 am 
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You still got the same sump tank Darrell was running? I think it was the round spun aluminum type, right? How high are you filling it when you change/add oil?


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 12, 2012 12:23 am 
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Baddvw wrote:
On second thought, is your lines hooked up properly on the remote oil filter? That could be the issue here if hooked up backwards........the fram filters does not have a check valve and the WIX filters does.....


yeah everyhting is hooked up as it should be on the filter mounts, at least according to the "in" and "out" thats on the mount itself

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 12, 2012 12:30 am 
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kybuggy1 wrote:
You still got the same sump tank Darrell was running? I think it was the round spun aluminum type, right? How high are you filling it when you change/add oil?


yep same round tank, i buy 2 of the 5 quart jugs of oil and fill 1 filter out of one jug and the other filter out out of the other jug and then dump whats left out of one jug in the motor and whats left out of the other jug into the tank. then once i crank it and the oil gets leveled out i usually have to add a little more to get the oil level up above the baffle plate in the tank

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 12, 2012 12:58 am 
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i bought on ebay but just about any racing shop sells them or can get them its called a inline screened oil filter mine is moroso 10an and is in my suction line from tank to the pump if u have the stock screen in place in the bottom of case then u already have a screen on the line from the case back to tank then just a spin on filter between pressure side of pump before oil goes back into engine there is some on ebay also speedwaymotors.com sells them hope this helps
also what size r ur lines


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 12, 2012 1:02 am 
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http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R4 ... Categories


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 12, 2012 1:09 am 
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buggiejunky wrote:
i bought on ebay but just about any racing shop sells them or can get them its called a inline screened oil filter mine is moroso 10an and is in my suction line from tank to the pump if u have the stock screen in place in the bottom of case then u already have a screen on the line from the case back to tank then just a spin on filter between pressure side of pump before oil goes back into engine there is some on ebay also speedwaymotors.com sells them hope this helps
also what size r ur lines


ok thanks i thought it was screen on the return side you were talking about, ive got 1/2" sized lines and fittings which is the equivalent to 8 AN

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 12, 2012 1:19 am 
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u dont need a filter on return side unless ur running a cb pump (that the only place u can put it ) keep screen in bottom of case cause it will stop trash from going into the pump on suction side u want a screen to catch large trash that might get into tank but still flow lots of oil i think im running 10an lines every where because when i bought my pump it came with 10an fittings in it so i figured thats what it required im not sure but it works with no issues


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 12, 2012 1:41 am 
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buggiejunky wrote:
u dont need a filter on return side unless ur running a cb pump (that the only place u can put it ) keep screen in bottom of case cause it will stop trash from going into the pump on suction side u want a screen to catch large trash that might get into tank but still flow lots of oil i think im running 10an lines every where because when i bought my pump it came with 10an fittings in it so i figured thats what it required im not sure but it works with no issues


i have bought 2 new bugpack drysump pumps and both of mine came with 8 AN fittings so thats why i used 1/2" line and 1/2" JIC fittings and i also used to "tube" 90 fittings instead of the "squared off" 90

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 12, 2012 4:14 am 
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going to get a new vw oil change kit and a 1/2" double male JIC fitting to bypass my 2nd filter on monday and will see what happens then :roll:

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 12, 2012 6:15 am 
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Have u tryed taking the return to tank side fittings loose one at a time starting at pump to see if pump is picking up or if u might have a restriction? If pump isn't picking up, I would check to see if pickup tube in block could b loose.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 28, 2012 1:27 am 
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well ive done everything that anybody suggested (all at the same time) and it could have been a combination of things but i THINK the main problem was the filter in the return line, it SEEMED fine with it bypassed but when i hooked it back up the oil flow wented to acting up again, im still not sure why this APPEARS to be the problem as ive seen a few others plumbed this same way with no issues whatsoever :roll:

SO i guess im gonna go with a 4" or 6" oberg or maybe a round screened inline moroso, pegasus, or peterson filter, also any suggestions as whether to get the 60 micron or the 115 micronif i go oberg and is the "tattle tale" version worth the extra money and trouble to hook up?

http://store.obergfilters.com/index.html

http://pitstopusa.com/c-132774-oil-syst ... -line.html

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/group ... FILTINLINE

http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/cate ... il_Filters

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 28, 2012 10:12 pm 
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FYI I have bought all of my Peterson dry sump oil filters off ebay for really good prices. Anywhere from 25 to 40 bucks each.

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