just a few questions I have an AH code motor on the code chart it says 73-74 1600 8mm bolts with case savers. is this a good motor to start withor is it not worth putting money into? I pushed my crankshaft back and forth and it seemed to have a lot of endplay how much is acceptable and is this easily repaireable? when I brought this thing home I turned the key and it fired right up the very next day i tryed it and it would not start it just sputters takes off for a sec and putters to a hault. I may have left the key on all night any ideas?

_________________
If it ain't broke ill fix that

depends on how much end play you have on the motor it may be time for a new case you can remove the flywheel and put shims between the flywheel and motor to take end play out also what carb and distributor do you have on it we have had problems with the stock vaccumm advance dist or maybe you are not getting enough to the motor

endplay is enough I can see it move not just feel it motor is not original car is a 70 and autostick could someone have left some shims out when changing to a flexplate? carb is a 34 pict 3 dist. is i believe an 009 with dual vacumm ports which one is just plugged off. pulled the carb apart and cleaned it real good and that didnt change it at all. the solenoid on side of carb has power going to it but doesnt sound like its clicking with key on and off. does this turn off fuel flow or just idle air? does the same wether i open the throttle or not.

_________________
If it ain't broke ill fix that

Does it have stock mechanical fuel pump? Check it if so, try electric and see if it still quits. Sputtering makes me think gas issue. After bowl empties the carb may be having to wait on gas. Hope this helps.

The shut off may be bad as you said, take it out and cut the plunger off. Most people do. They're high.

I was tthinking how to bypass it i never thought of just cutting it off thanks. thats just there for deiseling and run on right?

_________________
If it ain't broke ill fix that

the carb is getting plenty of fuel to it ive pulled the drain several times just to make sure. the accel pump is squirting fuel everytime i hit the throttle. ive pulled the supply line and stuck it in a fuel can to eliminate contamination in fuel. ill try wacking the plunger on that valve tonight and see what happens. its pising me off im about to bite the bullet and buy a new carb. anyone have a known good weber setup around columbus they want to sell?

_________________
If it ain't broke ill fix that

Have you checked the points?

If you left the key on this could be it.or not getting fuel.you can shim the flywheel,but if you tear it down to build a new motor a good machine shop(VW) can check your block,but it doesn't sound like it's to bad.just needs fire,fuel and air.Chad

_________________
NOW GAS IT!!!!!

you need to measure the endplay. good endplay is .004 to .006 . if it is to bad shimming will not help it. if you do dicide to shim it look when you remove flywheel to see how much play is between bearing and case.

I think i figured it out. I gravity fed the carb and seen fuel pouring out under the throttle blade. anyone know why a solex 34 would do this? I dont think its the float because its not pouring out the vent like it would.

_________________
If it ain't broke ill fix that

They have been known to freeze and bust if water was present.

_________________
A good friend will bail you out of jail. A best friend will be sitting next to you saying: "Damn that was fun!"



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A5wGMaUMXUQ

snagged a dial indicator from work today and measured my endplay. came up with .120". i know this is bad but how bad? does this sound repairable with machine work or should I start looking for a block?

_________________
If it ain't broke ill fix that

It is bad . You need to take it apart to see if it can be fixed . Take to Drews and see if they can save it .

said he left the key on.

Rimco now has a process for repairing blocks that the thrust has worn too far. .120 is a ton. They weld it up and remachine it to stock specs. Costs $60 last time I talked to them. But if you're gonna stay stock, may be easier just to try n find a decent used block.

Sounds like I need to buy a running motor just to get me through the year. If I tear this thing down and get it machined it we be against my beliefs to put it back together a 1600.

_________________
If it ain't broke ill fix that