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PostPosted: Mon Apr 11, 2011 8:35 pm 
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Its like phase 2 of many.... design, design, make better, make better, make lighter....

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 11, 2011 9:54 pm 
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rockrockets1 wrote:
This is what makes the KY guys say uuuugggg. Man I know I am gonna catch it for this but every time some one builds something everyone jumps on here and tells how great it is ...And I am not saying it wont work but my question is Why? It weighs as much as a pack mule. And all this just to keep the front end on the ground.You should have just left it the way it was and just welded all that freaking PLATE to the front bumper and you would have got the same effect. Like I said not trying to bust your bubble it's just I have always been taught that PLATE is WEIGHT. And that's the one thing you don't want on a buggy. And I'm not trying to push a CD I am just saying. The only reason we ever built a CD was to save the trany .You can run a super beetle trany and a 2500 with 44 and cant hardly break it . With this you still need 930 joints and axles and a built trany what did you accomplish that you could not with a good set of 3x6? same thing . Still have the built trany the 930 axles and joints. If you want the front end on the ground adjust weight. Ballast works everytime. Once again sorry just keeping it real

I don't like to think that up here in Pennsyltucky we are that different from those from Harlan County and that being said I also appreciate a light buggy than can be lifted off a stump by 2 people. You are also right when you say "plate makes weight" but in my case its the dinner plate because I'm a corn fed dude that tips a cattle scale at 296 and am 6'3" so when I want to shave the buggy weight down I can go do the Atkins diet and drink light beer and take off the 100 pounds the Doc wants me to(not anyway to live though). You asked why and the answer to that is easy, the concept is the option of having a bolt on.The weight is not a concern because unlike hanging tractor pulling weights to the front as you suggest, the weight is still carried primarily on the rear wheels where it is most effecient. Tractive effort can be increased with a greater pounds per square inch of ground pressure.Thanks for your comments on Aaron's vid and remember, I'm the guy that didn't listen to his Momma and always wear his helmet.


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 12, 2011 10:46 am 
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Again I am not trying to be rude I was just saying Why. I am also a big dude that's why weight of a buggy has always been one of my main concerns. I like new innovative stuff. Like I said not trying to piss anyone off or be a jerk I was just wandering why not benefit from the tire movement in more ways than just to keep the front end down. Supper beetle tranys are a dime a dozen around here why not reduce run a cheep trany and car axle and car joints same tires same wheelbase thousands less .Ever tried to roll a tire up a hill after it broke off ? I have and it is a heck of a lot harder to do when the rotor and wheel spacer is on it because weight is weight .sprung or not it's still weight


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 12, 2011 5:30 pm 
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rockrockets1 wrote:
Again I am not trying to be rude I was just saying Why. I am also a big dude that's why weight of a buggy has always been one of my main concerns. I like new innovative stuff. Like I said not trying to piss anyone off or be a jerk I was just wandering why not benefit from the tire movement in more ways than just to keep the front end down. Supper beetle tranys are a dime a dozen around here why not reduce run a cheep trany and car axle and car joints same tires same wheelbase thousands less .Ever tried to roll a tire up a hill after it broke off ? I have and it is a heck of a lot harder to do when the rotor and wheel spacer is on it because weight is weight .sprung or not it's still weight
I hope it's never rude for voicing an opinion just because it's different. Let me be real here and I will post the weight of this contraption with me in the seat and a full tank of gas for comparison to others.I will not repudiate myself for trying to make a longer set of trailing arms, not "add weight".A 110" wheelbase is not excessive, but if it is, I have the option of unbolting the arms and go buy a setof Sawyerbuilts.


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 12, 2011 5:48 pm 
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I can see your point .If you don't like it you can always go back


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 21, 2011 10:41 pm 
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Got some more work done.







Thanks ridenrace.... I can post videos now!!!!


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 22, 2011 10:58 pm 
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OK Rock, so why do the arms like he has built, but make it accept larger sprockets for more gear reduction like your bigger chain drives? And I agree that plate is heavy, but it is very strong. Allthough 1/2" may be a bit much.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 24, 2011 8:07 pm 
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You will have to let me know how the jeep filter works glad to see you got it on :D

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 06, 2011 7:42 pm 
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few questions. where did you get the chain and sprockets and how did you go from the vw axle and cv to the sprocket. and than back to the vw so you can still have the disk breaks?


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 06, 2011 9:47 pm 
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Duneman, you should check out the babychains Firebug made. He also has pictures of the hubs and sprockets he made on his post. This is where we started.
http://www.woodsbuggy.com/index.php?opt ... f=5&t=8977

The hubs and sprockets we used were bought from Firebug.

The brake rotors are from an audi should be the same as 2000 vw jettas.

The calipers are what came with the vw disc brake conversion kit.

The mounts for the calipers are made from 1/2 inch plate. The plates are bolted with the vanagon bearing housing bolts and tapped for the calipers. If you watch the video with the rotor I think I show a little of it.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 15, 2011 11:21 am 
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Updates?????!!!!????

Did you get it started?

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 16, 2011 10:13 pm 
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It has started, but only runs for a few seconds.... #$*@ vats. Doug finished up the last couple wires this afternoon and was talking about putting the seats back in the buggy. It has a date with Outlaw Street Tuners on July 20th so we'll see how it goes.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 17, 2011 9:40 am 
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If anyone doubt's your chains look at the outcome of the "So How Did Fultondale Ride Go" forum.Go Marty!


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 17, 2011 11:29 am 
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What you said passat. GO MARTY!!!!!
The harness will be put into loom after the dyno. Aluminum covers are being made for the engine and rads.
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 18, 2011 10:30 pm 
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Those type 3 calaipers you are running. Make sure you have a glob of metal in front of them . The ears are bad about breaking off. I just don't know if you know it or not .But... that is going to be a contender from he!!.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 28, 2011 10:55 pm 
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Did it make it to the dyno yet? :?: :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 03, 2011 3:49 pm 
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Yeah Dave it has been to the dyno. Vats are now off so it will stay running for more than 3 seconds. We had some issues with the maf which is also the air intake sensor, so it didn't get a correct tune. There are two gray wires coming off it into the harness. The 5 volt reference was being sent as the temp signal. It was reading a air intake temp of 500 degrees.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 03, 2011 4:06 pm 
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Syo2K1zIHQ8

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