I changed from type 1 set up to type 2 set up. Im runnung a all stock 1641 DP with a 3 rib trans and super diff. When I put it together I measured for my axles and got 17 inches from stub to trans. I ordered 16 3/4 axles, type 2 conversiom stubs and 4 new cv joints. I lower my arm until the cv bound up and set my limit straps 2 inches above that point. At full droop my axle angle is 20* at ride height my angle is 16* I have gone through 3 cv joints and cant figure out why. They are coming apart not breaking. I cheaped out on the cv joints. The kit had all 4 joints, all 4 boots, and all bran new bolts for $100 shipped. Could it be these cheap cv joints? Thanks all this has been very frustrating for me since I did all the research on the whole change and set it up rite. The set up is done rite I got all the info from this site and you all rock

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If it breaks it dont belong in there

Im thinking I need the good cv joints from dans performance that have all the chromoly stuff inside and are good for 22*

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If it breaks it dont belong in there

are you running clips on both ends of the axles? try it with a clip on the trans side and no clip on the wheel end

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LEGALIZE BLUEGRASS!!!

Save a tree... eat a Beaver

Yup clips on both ends. Shouldnt you have clips on both ends?

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If it breaks it dont belong in there

just a clip on the trans end so the axles doesnt fall out.. you want it to slip through the bottom joint as the arm travels up and down give it a try and let us know

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LEGALIZE BLUEGRASS!!!

Save a tree... eat a Beaver

As reno said also you should not need the ones from dans if they are falling apart somethi g else is wrong

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I DO NOT FREE BASE COCAINE

Even if I have the rite size axles? I ordered joints anyway cause im hard on shit When I put the new ones in Ill leave the clip off the stub end and see how they work. Thanks all. Im going riding next weekend with new joints soo Ill let you no how it goes.

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If it breaks it dont belong in there

yep, even with the correct axles... the clip on top prevents the axles from falling down and riding against the stub, which will mushroom the end and prevent it from sliding through.. the same as the clip does

im assuming its the CV on the wheel end that is pulling apart? leaving the clip out will let the axle pull up into the cv when the tires goes to max droop.. a clip on the end will cause it to pull apart or bind and break

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LEGALIZE BLUEGRASS!!!

Save a tree... eat a Beaver

Yup it is the one on the wheel side. I will leave that clip off when I put the new ones in. Ill keep the old cv joints as spares. Thanks I did not know they would do that . You all are great people. Thanks again

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If it breaks it dont belong in there

What are you using for limit straps ?? Straps will stretch...Use chain tape it up with black tape so it don't rattle NOTHING works better and for the price you can't beat it

Yea im using chain with adjustable mounts. When the wheels are hanging the axle angle is 20* and cv joints are not bound. Thats what has me stumped. Everything is set up rite. Im going to try letting the clips off the stub side and see how that works with the race joints.

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If it breaks it dont belong in there

well I learned something new today. Sounds like something I'd do too. Thanks

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has left the building...

You have stock trailing arms?
If so, never seen one take that axle length.
16 to 16-1/4" should have done it.
You might be plunging the axle too far into the joint.

That 20° full droop angle is more severe than a T2 is designed to take although they should live at 16°
Your spring plates notch or stops modified?
Check this link for some good CV information.
http://www.blindchickenracing.com/How_t ... ts_101.htm

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Gary

Turbo VW Sand Racer
Polaris Ranger



"If you don't run into the Devil every once in awhile, you must be going in the same direction!"

Davis Motorsports FaceBook Page

Stupid question but are you running new joints? If so they may need to be clearanced so the will last. New CV's are very stiff and will fail prematurely if not prepared. Best of luck solving your problem. When I ran T2 joints I always used sloppy worn CV joints and never had a failure. I went to 930 CV due to angles with extended length trailing arms

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Water Cooled Consortium, Chairman of the Build (Former AC purist)

x2.. worn original joints are the best ive dogged them and they eventually wear out and break, then turn around and break a brand new one backing off the trailer

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LEGALIZE BLUEGRASS!!!

Save a tree... eat a Beaver

are the boot flanges being deformed when the joint is coming aprt? ( you said the joint wasnt breaking )
if so, the only explanation i can think of right now is at full droop the clip on the stub side is pulling the joint apart.
if you buy flanges for the bus koints like you can get for the 930's the only way they will come apart is to break. just something to think about.

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ask no questions and you'll get no lies

also if you got the empi stubs they are thicker than stock stubs. had to shorten my sons axles when i put in the new stubs

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ask no questions and you'll get no lies

I wasnt sure what trailing arms I had so I leveled the stubs with the trans flange and measured. I got 17 inches, subtracted a 1/4 inch and bought 16 3/4 inch axles. As far as the boots go they are not being damaged. I think im just over extending the joints. My buggy seems to try to fly a lot Ill put the 25* race joints in and leave the clip off the stub side, that should do the trick. Ill post back on sunday when I get back from riding and let you all know how it worked out. Thanks for all the great info.

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If it breaks it dont belong in there

I put the new cv joints in and left the clip off the stub side. Ran the sh*t out of it yesterday and everything held together Thanks everyone for the help

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If it breaks it dont belong in there

I don't run clips on either side trans or stub side....

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"I got this..."

I like clips on top or it can mess up the end of axle on the bottom side and make taking joints off it a pain

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I DO NOT FREE BASE COCAINE