just called about ordering a beam and arms for my buggy i wanted to go with a stock beam length with 4X1 arms but they said that wouldnt work because it would make my wheels lean an have bump steer.. so i was wondering what would be a better combination with a stock size beam.. i dont want to go to wide with a beam cuz we some times ride in some tight spots. thanks.

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What do you mean your in limp mode?

I agree with you.. I also bought the stock width beam to make sure I can get through the trails. If you really want 4x1 arms, you will need a 6 inch wider beam.

If you do not want to go with a wider beam, you can probably get an adjustable stock width beam with 2-1/4 x 1 arms.

I would call Dan Emery at DansPerformanceParts (See Sponsor Page) and ask him about your options. He has provided me excellent advice in the past.

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hes actually who i spoke 2. really good people! i know a few people run longer arms with a stock beam but was jus curious on how much longer..

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What do you mean your in limp mode?

buddy of mine jus put 2 1/4 longer arms on a stock width beam and it works great.. he did weld adjusters in it. i have a 6in wider beam with 2 1/4 longer arms on my latest project and am confident it will work jus like its suppose too

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LEGALIZE BLUEGRASS!!!

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I'm trying to wrap my head around this. The beam is just two straight tubes that the arms fit in. The only thing that changes is the steering if you go wider. With a center mount rack I can't really see how the tire would lean any differently at whatever beam width you have. The suspension will cycle the exact same even if the beam was 400' wide. The steering will obviously change, but with a rack and pinion you should be able to experiment with travel and rack location to adjust most of the bump steer out. I'd be more worried about the extra length of the arms moving the wheel location further back on the frame. Frames typically widen out as they go back, so on a stock width beam it may create a rubbing issue with the back of the tire and frame. I can't see how the geometry, other than steering, would be effected though.

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"Obstacles are those frightful things you see when you take your eyes off your goal." -Henry Ford

I should have been more clear but during the shock cycle wouldn't it lay your wheel in or out? I know if you raise up a stock suspension the wheels lean..

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What do you mean your in limp mode?

The issue with running 4x1 1/2 arms on a stock width beam is the angle of the tie rod and clearance at the lower frame rail and upper rail. Wider beam equals longer tie rod less angle more clearance. This can be over come by lengthening the steering arm on the spindle but it creates a weak point for a steering failure.

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Water Cooled Consortium, Chairman of the Build (Former AC purist)

It can't. (period) Where the problem comes in with the +4" arm is, they can't be used with torsion springs. I'm not aware of one commercial builder in the US that builds a +4" arm that has the provision for torsion springs. The springs can not handle the amount of twist a +4" arm will put them through and the springs will fail in short order if they could be used. As far as the width of the beam, it has no affect on steering geometry the only thing it will affect is the overall travel of the arm because of tie rod interference with the frame. I have +4" arms and a 4" wider beam on my Funco project. This set up gives me 14" of wheel travel, if I were to have used a 6" wider beam it would of had just under 16" of travel.

Also worth noting, on the stock link/pin set up and the higher end after market builders (mine included) the tires do "lean" in a turn. The king pin is on a 3.5 deg angle and the spindle stub is welded to the knuckle on a 3.5 deg angle which makes the tire lean on a turn.

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Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.
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