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PostPosted: Sun Sep 23, 2012 5:20 pm 
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 23, 2012 5:21 pm 
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 23, 2012 5:23 pm 
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Image put 4 new lobro cv joints on about 3 rides ago...they started poppin so i took them apart to inspect and found chips off of center star. have 3x3 arms,3 rib bus trans...and running 19 and 1/4 axles.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 23, 2012 6:17 pm 
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Image here is a pic of an empi 930 that i ran for 2 years...no chips ????

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 23, 2012 7:39 pm 
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EMPIS are sloppy when they come over on the boat! Surprised the Lobros are doing that however . What is your CV angle?

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 23, 2012 8:08 pm 
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I guess the stupid question is did you clearance/ race prep them or just grease-em and slap-m on. New cv joints don't last long on a buggy with mid or long travel or even stock if they are not clearanced.

They can be clearanced using a dremel with the drum sander, take the star and outer remove all of the factory blueing and then ease the edge of the star and outer ever so slightly. Lastly remove the sharp edges from the cages unless they are already race prepped.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 23, 2012 8:37 pm 
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I hope I didn't come across as a A-hole with my last post. It is good that you label your cv with location and direction of rotation as they wear in that direction. Swing axles are the same want to see one shatter revers the direction it has turned for 100,000+ miles. Dave Clark of Sundance bug and Buggy in Plant City taught me a ton before he passed. That guy was a VW encyclopedia he is missed. By the way if you mail order Terry (the new owner of Sundance in Plant City is also a great guy with lots of knowledge.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 7:44 am 
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That's strange those are chipped, is that on your passenger side in and outer?

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 8:20 am 
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Rick wrote:
That's strange those are chipped, is that on your passenger side in and outer?

chipped all 4 worse on the outers by wheel....not so bad on trans end of axle

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 12:41 pm 
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ya need to prep 'em it looks like. you want the cv to feel loose before you blot it on. A tight one will break. Round off all the sharp edges and lightly sand down the ball tracks

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 1:40 pm 
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sounds like its time for some polishing http://youtu.be/wsIn3z7dbjc

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 2:45 pm 
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yea i would say thats the sharp edges cracking off when it gets in a bind. polish and clock them on the axles. mine are done at 17degree ride height and 20degree full droop.heres a pic of polishedImage

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 3:27 pm 
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Great pictures and video guys, exactly what I was saying about clearancing cv joints. I would like a little bit more info on the clocking of the cv's on the axle. I assume it is a simple procedure. I have no issues with clicking but my axle shafts bind so the shafts don't float easily so I assume that clocking will eliminate the bind.
Thanks in advance :mrgreen:

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 5:07 pm 
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Good CV information and writeup here:

http://www.outfrontmotorsports.com/cv_assembly.htm

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 5:09 pm 
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http://www.outfrontmotorsports.com/cv_assembly.htm

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 6:33 pm 
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Thanks guys, I have always used the trial and error method of assembly. It is nice to have the photo's and narrative. Clocking would definitely be good for my car running 3x5 rear trailing arms. I shifted the transmission mount back to keep the angles in check. Again thanks for the great resource.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 7:42 pm 
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i have ride height at 17 full droop at 20....do i need to add for the angle front to back? the trans flange is in front of the stub farther because of the 3x3 arms.so do i need to account for that angle as well? also could it go negative angle past 25 degrees when it compresses while trailing arm is traveling up?

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 7:56 pm 
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this angle is 17 andImage 20 do i add for trans and stub front to back?

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 8:00 pm 
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We never had any issues with angles running a true 3x3 trailing arm. Most of the guys running 3x5 arms have had to move the trans mount back one inch to decrease the back angle. A lot of the desert guys are cutting or custom fabing a torsion housing that is 8" wider running swing axle side plates and custom built 5x5 arms. I am happy with the 3x5 I had built in CA. $450 delivered to the house for mild steel.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 8:02 pm 
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bige70chevy wrote:
this angle is 17 andImage 20 do i add for trans and stub front to back?

and clocked cvs from day 1 ...on axle and internally

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 8:09 pm 
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I believe that the 930 joint will take 26 degrees total. Just make sure nothing is binding, axle splines and all that good crap. You can check out my build Acura 3.2 4 seater. I have a photo of the relocation of the nose mount. The engine mounts are all custom so they wont help you much.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 8:51 pm 
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bige70chevy wrote:
Image here is a pic of an empi 930 that i ran for 2 years...no chips ????


Just asking ?? Why the new ones ??

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 9:04 pm 
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The Empi knock offs don't have a hardened star. I was on Pacific web site and they sell aftermarket stars and chromolly cages for the Lobro CV's.

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